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Author: Subject: Photochlorination apparatus, setup of multiple UV LED lights, help please...
Twospoons
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[*] posted on 1-8-2005 at 16:27


Near as I can work out halogens go down to 250nm, but the output is quite low.
The vast bulk of the radiation is in the IR. Only 1% of the output is in the UV range under 400nm.




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Mr. Wizard
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[*] posted on 1-8-2005 at 17:56


Even 1% of a 100 watt bulb is a terrific source of UV. The bulbs are dirt cheap and can be run with only convection cooling. If electricity is that expensive where you live, maybe the UV LEDs would make sense. Sunlight is even cheaper, but not as convenient, as many have mentioned.



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[*] posted on 1-8-2005 at 19:00


I figured all along that Bromic just had these LEDS and wanted to find a cool use to play with them. If I were actually going to build the reaction setup mentioned I would use one of those 18 inch 20 watt fluorescent germicidal lights. Much more UV in the short end of the range, little heat and little electricity used, plus it can be on 24 hours a day if needed without worry of any failures or other problems.
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[*] posted on 1-8-2005 at 23:20


vulture, I don´t know the wavelengths emitted by the halogen lamps, but I know from experience that a 150W halogen without the shielding glass works the same or even better than a dedicated 60W UV lamp.
Don´t forget that shorter wavelengths are filtered out by the glass anyways.




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[*] posted on 2-8-2005 at 06:43
Quartz Mercury Arc


http://www.aceglass.com/html/products/support_info/photochem...
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Mr. Wizard
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[*] posted on 2-8-2005 at 18:03


I have a few of these mercury vapor quartz lamps with fused quartz or silica protective tubes. GPH287T5L rated at 14 watts. They are called non ozone generating germicidal lamps. They have a big test tube surrounding them. Does anyone know how to tell if the big tube surrounding the discharge tube is quartz or just glass? I don't know what the spectrum is either, just that it's for 'germicidal use" and "non ozonating."



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[*] posted on 2-8-2005 at 18:15


Picture of lamps in previous post.

UV lamp tube ballast.jpg - 73kB




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[*] posted on 2-8-2005 at 19:07


Try heating the tubes with a blowtorch. If the glass gets red hot without softening or having any orange sodium vapor come off it, it's quartz.
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[*] posted on 3-8-2005 at 01:37


If it's none ozone generating, it's a safe bet the wavelengths emitted won't drop below 280nm.



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[*] posted on 3-8-2005 at 05:55


I think the majority (95%) will be around 254 nm according to this site.
http://www.ultraviolet.com/whatis.htm
The ozone producing band is produced by the Hg vapor at 185 nm and is only a small percentage of the output. What wavelength forms the O3?
I'll test the sleeves I have to see if they are quartz. I'll clean them first to remove any surface contamination then get them red hot and see what happens.

[Edited on 3-8-2005 by Mr. Wizard]




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[*] posted on 4-8-2005 at 14:48


It looks like quartz. I cleaned it with tap water, wiped it dry.
1 warm up
2 full heat with propane weed burner
3 red glow, doesn't seem to glow much compared to other things.

DSCF0870.jpg - 21kB




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[*] posted on 4-8-2005 at 14:50


I haven't figured out how to attach two jpeg files yet. Here is the tube while under high heat. Notice there is no sodium glow.

DSCF0869.jpg - 22kB




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[*] posted on 4-8-2005 at 16:01


Sounds good, anything else would've melted by then. 8)



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[*] posted on 10-8-2005 at 17:56


My workmate and I are looking at buying a wafer of 400nm UV LED die from Cree (about 6000 die) and getting them bonded into TO3 size multi-cavity packages. This would put 300 die into a space of 1 square inch, with a UV flux of around 3W. I'm just curious if anyone here would be interested in such a device (we want them for UV glue curing), as we'll probably offer them for sale (couldn't guess a price though!).



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[*] posted on 10-8-2005 at 19:37


Wow, hooking up a whole LED slice? That would be AWESOME, UV or otherwise! :D

d00d...can you imagine a full sheet of Luxeon Stars? :o :o

Tim




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[*] posted on 10-8-2005 at 19:41


Our first cure lamp consisted of 3, just 3, of the 5W royal blue Luxeons (700mW output each). The result was scary. Those Luxeons are just incredible. Shame they don't do UV.



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[*] posted on 13-8-2005 at 18:19
LED related schematics


LED related schematics:
http://www.commlinx.com.au/LED.htm
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[*] posted on 14-6-2006 at 23:50
UV Lamp


I have UV lamp (TLD15W/05 PHILIPS 15W T8), and I like to make photochlorination reaction So how can I operate my lamp safty and what about its connections?
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[*] posted on 15-6-2006 at 02:16


Consult the product manual and / or manufacturer if you want to know how to run the lamp. I'm assuming that's what you mean by 'connections'.



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[*] posted on 13-9-2006 at 21:53


On the subject of LEDs as UV sources, we've just acquired some excellent ones from Cree. In their Xlamp package, they put out 200mW @ 400nm , with a supply of 350mA @3.5V. With a solid heatsink I've pushed them to 800mA ( :o ), almost doubling the light output. They cost US$9 each.

I'm also trying to get some 380nm, 150mW ones from Hanse.




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[*] posted on 14-9-2006 at 05:27


Quote:

On the subject of LEDs as UV sources, we've just acquired some excellent ones from Cree. In their Xlamp package, they put out 200mW @ 400nm


I see alot of this...but 400nm isn't UV! A quick test in the analytics lab with a difraction grating showed that most people can still see light up to 350nm.




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[*] posted on 14-9-2006 at 14:58


400nm is short enough to appear quite dim. And 200mw is uncomfortable to look at. I had 3 running yesterday, giving me 1 watt of 400nm. I have 455nm Leds that put out 700mW, and I can't look at them.
I think the definition of what contstiutes UV is somewhat arbitrary. At the IR end, 850nm is consider well into the IR, yet it is faintly visible in the dark.




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