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MagicJigPipe
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Registered: 19-9-2007
Location: USA
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Xenoid. You just hate the US. Silly goose.
Take a step back. Is it really the whole country or just certain people in the government? Or perhaps most people in the government.
Crap or not, I found Pyrodex to outperform black powder in many applications. Especially when it comes to lifting things.
"There must be no barriers to freedom of inquiry ... There is no place for dogma in science. The scientist is free, and must be free to ask any
question, to doubt any assertion, to seek for any evidence, to correct any errors. ... We know that the only way to avoid error is to detect it and
that the only way to detect it is to be free to inquire. And we know that as long as men are free to ask what they must, free to say what they think,
free to think what they will, freedom can never be lost, and science can never regress." -J. Robert Oppenheimer
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Xenoid
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| Quote: | Originally posted by MagicJigPipe
Xenoid. You just hate the US. Silly goose.
Crap or not, I found Pyrodex to outperform black powder in many applications. Especially when it comes to lifting things. |
No, not at all, you're confusing me with JohnWW... 
Pyrodex is not a suitable alternative for some kid in Australia, trying to make a bit of gunpowder at home! In Australia and NZ it is extremely
expensive, I won't tell you how much because it is embarrassing that I paid so much. It is designed for a specific purpose (muzzle loaded rifles and
pistols), to reduce fouling and to get around transportation regulations among others.
"The United States Department of Transportation has assigned the classification of "smokeless" to Pyrodex rather than the classification "Explosive"
that is given to blackpowder. Pyrodex is safe in any firearm designed for the use of blackpowder."
Someone at home, can easily make a comparable amount of blackpowder for a few dollars. Paying 10X the price for Pyrodex just isn't on, no matter how
it performs!
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madaz
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Thank you for the info and the understanding that things are alot harder over here.
I will make some more now and let you know how it goes, the latest batch i made (Without water) turned out great so im looking forward to how this
turns out.
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MagicJigPipe
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Wow, I know it's expensive... But not as expensive here as you make it out to be there. $7-$10 a pound (~.45kg)
I think the standard container is a lb. But that's how much the standard amount is.
Also, they make different mesh sizes of it (FFG, FFFG equivalent etc...) which may be the reason for our difference in results.
I would also have to concur with Mumbles in that charcoal is a big factor. The reason I started to use my activated charcoal is because BBQ charcoal
gave unsatisfactory results IIRC.
"There must be no barriers to freedom of inquiry ... There is no place for dogma in science. The scientist is free, and must be free to ask any
question, to doubt any assertion, to seek for any evidence, to correct any errors. ... We know that the only way to avoid error is to detect it and
that the only way to detect it is to be free to inquire. And we know that as long as men are free to ask what they must, free to say what they think,
free to think what they will, freedom can never be lost, and science can never regress." -J. Robert Oppenheimer
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Twospoons
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You've got to remember the shipping costs of getting the stuff across the Pacific - including hazmat fees, customs fees, middle mans cut, etc. By the
time you hit retail, the stuff is going to be 3x what you pay in the US.
For me the single biggest difference was ball milling. My BP was always fairly slow when I used mortar & pestle. I didn't change any of the
chemicals/charcoal, just shifted to ball milling wet - now my BP is frighteningly fast.
Helicopter: "helico" -> spiral, "pter" -> with wings
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asilentbob
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I wouldn't recommend activated charcoal. The slight bit of oils retained when making charcoal via a retort method and not over cooking play a
significant part in the BP. Also the clay and other impurities present sometimes in charcoal brickets don't help the burn rate. They can also contain
hard rocks... and while your milling media might be non-sparking... the rocks might not be.
You can test with a side by side comparison of 2 small batches made exactly the same and milled exactly the same other than charcoal used. Starting
one with your airfloat activated charcoal, and the other with airfloat willow, poplar, white pine, balsa, or paulownia, etc that has not been over
cooked.
http://www.wichitabuggywhip.com/fireworks/charcoal_tests.htm...
General mixed lump charcoals like "Cowboy Brand" that contain oak, mesquite, etc are good general purpose charcoals for BP when a very fast powder
isn't needed. Many pyros, myself included, use "Cowboy Brand" for priming BP, normal meal for stars, stars, black match, etc.
It really comes down to if you can consistently make your BP the same and if you have a good steady cheap/free supply of whatever charcoals you use
the most.
So many ideas... too few dealing with chemistry.
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Mumbles
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I've honestly heard conflicting reports about activated. Some say yey, while some say ney. Probably depends a lot on what wood it was originally
made from, processes, etc. I know a lot of it, at least the "best", is supposed to be made of coconut if I am not mistaken. If going for maximum
speed, activated is probably not the best choice, but that does not mean it cannot be made serviceable.
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Alan
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I have not had good luck with using activated carbon (bought it from pet store) it burned really shitty, i wouldn't recommend it.
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MadHatter
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BP
My ball-milled BP goes poof with little or no residue when ignited. Personally, I think
method may be the problem some are having.
From opening of NCIS New Orleans - It goes a BOOM ! BOOM ! BOOM ! MUHAHAHAHAHAHAHA !
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