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ElectroWin
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re: hot-glue, i found that mixing in some paraffin also reduces its stickiness, making it more workable when warm.
and,
this article is about DIY plastic from starch:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Starch-Plastic-20-Pressure-C...
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Intergalactic_Captain
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On the hot glue note, think industrial...
http://www.bostik-us.com/markets/packaging/case-carton/therm...
If you can track down a case of this at a reasonable price, it might be an option - This is the hard, inflexible type of glue used in the cardboard
packaging of just about everything you've ever come across. Our gluepots at work are set to 350degF for air-actuated glue jets, not sure what a
working temperature for your application would be but it should be around the same - Key point is that it dries translucent, and relatively close to
the amber color you're looking for.
If you see me running, try to keep up.
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elementcollector1
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Distilling Resin?
I would like to know if it is possible to distill the resin they sell at car repair stores in the interest of obtaining a clear product (which can
then be used in the same way as the original). Granted, I should have bought clear casting resin, but I'm wondering if there's any way to fix my
mistake.
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Pyro
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what's the main component? but I doubt it as it's probably a mix of many different things
all above information is intellectual property of Pyro.  |
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elementcollector1
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According to the MSDS found here (http://apps.risd.edu/envirohealth_msds/Facilities/fiberglass...),
60-70% "Proprietary Resin"
30-40% styrene
The dictionary definition of proprietary really isn't helping with this one.
However, the styrene could distill off without too much trouble (BP 145 C).
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Pyro
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try it (maybe first in a test tube with a holed stopper and tube in case its a huge mess)
all above information is intellectual property of Pyro. |
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WGTR
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Are you looking to mount element samples into a clear block? If so, you'll get better satisfaction
out of something that is intended for that purpose. Even some clear casting agents can yellow
as they age if their quality is not up to par.
A company that supplies these types of things is
www.smooth-on.com
Some people who do castings have recommended them to me, and I was happy with the
high-temp silicone rubber that I got from them. Anyway, YMMV (Your mileage may vary).
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elementcollector1
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It's actually for a different purpose, but the product should be about the same - clear and transparent.
Can't find any pricing or online cart for that particular site, and it doesn't look like I have a local distributor... Darn. I guess I'll keep
looking.
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unionised
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Buying styrene is probably easier than cleaning a distillation flask full of baked resin.
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chemrox
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As above I would guess that the glassware cost is much higher than the cost of new product. I have been cleaning a charred RB. I should have
reserved it for crude distillations since I've now spent over the cost of a clean flask on ebay. Maybe even Ace Glass..
"When you let the dumbasses vote you end up with populism followed by autocracy and getting back is a bitch." Plato (sort of)
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UnintentionalChaos
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The "proprietary resin" is usually an unsaturated polyester. Addition of the catalyst crosslinks the polyester and adds in polystyrene chains. The
properties of the finished product are dependent on both components. If you want a clear, colorless resin, I suggest a craft or hobby supply place.
They sell similar products but with no fumed silica filler and with colorless resins (or additives) that resist light induced discoloration/damage.
Typically, the catalyst added is also much less and results in a much longer, less exothermic cure process.
Department of Redundancy Department - Now with paperwork!
'In organic synthesis, we call decomposition products "crap", however this is not a IUPAC approved nomenclature.' -Nicodem
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elementcollector1
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EDIT: I came across a simple, kid's recipe for modeling clay that involves equal parts Elmer's Glue-All, cornstarch and flour. What I'm wondering is -
does this stuff dry translucent? I would like to either cast a 'brick' or 'shell' (depending on how thin it has to be to be translucent, if that
applies) that will diffuse the light from 7-8 LED's to make an even color (the LED's are evenly spaced).
In addition, if I do have to cast a three-dimensional shape out of this, would it be possible to coat the sides with petroleum jelly for a 'mold
release'? As far as I know, it should work - an often-used trick for glue bottles is to coat the bottle caps with mineral oil or Vaseline so they
don't stick.
[Edited on 11-27-2013 by elementcollector1]
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bfesser
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Threads Merged
27-11-2013 at 12:41 |
bfesser
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Thread Pruned
27-11-2013 at 12:42 |
elementcollector1
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Ugh. I've had 3/4 of a bottle of Elmer's Glue-All inside the mold for 2 days now. There's an eighth-inch thick layer of dry glue on the top, but
everything underneath is still liquid. The mold itself is composed of paper and wood. Is there any way to make this dry faster?
Perhaps dessicate it with something like H2SO4 in a separate container in a closed box?
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halogen
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Elmer's glue. Well I guess it makes sense, but thick layers Drying not polymerizing invites cracking too; maybe you'll consider letting it dry in
layers, probably an oven or heat helps if it doesn't be comforted that that's what I'd try.
Also, if you have:
Clear detergent bottles
Milk jugues
The aluminum soda can plastic ring fish and aquatic life killing things, you know?
Whatever else is polyethylene or polypropylene (check the recycling number)
- That's basically wax and can be melted, cast, whatever very easily. If the colors are to your liking - you probably will have difficulty adhering
inks or colorant to the surface. But one experiments. Don't melt PET, it chars.
Remind people, EVERYTHING is made of chemicals.
[Edited on 2-12-2013 by halogen]
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