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Author: Subject: Make Potassium (from versuchschemie.de)
blogfast25
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[*] posted on 29-4-2013 at 12:28


Quote: Originally posted by elementcollector1  

What would a mortar and pestle do?


Hard and brittle things grind down well in a mortar and pestle. But I imagine Ca metal is too malleable for that. Ball mill grinding (see e.g. Al powder) could work but you need inert atmosphere.

It's probably possible to 'atomise' Ca the same way spherical Al is produced: by rapid cooling/solidifying of an aerosol of liquid Al. Not for us hobbyists, I'm afraid...

[Edited on 29-4-2013 by blogfast25]




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[*] posted on 5-5-2013 at 07:10


Yesterday I prepared some more potassium, this time with a scaled up and upgraded set up but the results weren’t as good as I had hoped for. I scaled up from 50 ml solvent to 150 ml solvent and used 2-methyl butan-2-ol as catalyst (adjusted for MW vis-à-vis t-butanol) and Shellsol D70 as solvent (I had no deodorised kerosene left, so used up most of my remaining Shellsol D70), here’s the setup:



So, a 250 ml flat bottom RBF, an oversized Allihn condenser (no cooling water or air but I had air on standby) and heated by a temperature regulated oil bath.

All in all it went very uneventfully although the sudden burst of hydrogen (early reaction of KOH water with Mg) was particularly violent this time and some white mist did manage to escape through the chimney, due I believe to mechanical entrainment by the sudden hydrogen flux.

Bath temperature settled first at about 207 C, then climbed steadily to nearly 220 C. I refluxed for about 4 hours, detail:



As at some point the solvent started to cloud over (due to fine MgO I think) so I couldn’t see any potassium globules being formed, until at the end after cooling to below 70 C this crap shoot shot showed them:



Once the solvent was removed it became clear though that coalescence this time had been quite sub normal, with only relatively few medium sized potassium globules ready for picking:



Checking the left over dark grey sediment (not shown) I found it to be mostly potassium fines and MgO. I found no residual Mg metal. Some of the MgO slag was very coarse, almost rocky, making further K recovery difficult, so I decided not to bother.

I believe that in this instance the lack of any stirring was partly to blame for the poor coalescence: this upgraded set up is too rigid to even swirl the flask occasionally. Absence of any stirring may also promote MgO agglomeration. Slow, steady stirring just to keep everything in motion is what I would recommend to any first time experimenter.

I also have been thinking for a while now that there must be a better way of harvesting the potassium than 3 hours of additional refluxing. I had found higher up that in the right conditions the actual reduction reaction seems to be over in about 1 – 2 h tops, judging by hydrogen evolution which tails off dramatically after about 1 h of refuxing. Checking hydrogen evolution periodically is of course easy: fill a test tube with the off gases that leave the condenser and check for hydrogen with a match, lighter or Bunsen.

After cessation of reaction, the reactor could then be cooled down to below 80 C, the supernatant solvent removed and replaced by fresh kerosene and this mixture of fines (MgO + fine potassium) treated much the way one pans for gold: here the lighter potassium will ‘travel’ further than the denser MgO (d = 3.58 kg/L). The relatively MgO free potassium should be fairly easy to coalesce at around 100 C.

Another observation (which I’ve made several times) is the following. One objective of this test was to explore the possibility of catalyst recovery/recycling. I’ve noticed many times that the supernatant post-reaction solvent, when decanted off and allowed too cool settles to a viscous, even jelly like material. The proposed reaction mechanism predicts that all catalyst is present in the solvent as the relevant potassium alkoxide, thus the solvent should in principle be recoverable without further to do.

Alternatively, treatment with acid should hydrolyse the potassium alkoxide to salt and the alcohol in question (but the alcohol is soluble in the solvent, of course). Today I checked the supernatant liquid that I had set aside and a whitish, jelly like precipitate had separated out. Could this be potassium 2-methyl butan-2-oxide? I’ve yet to decide what to do with it but there’s enough for two small scale tests.


Finally, another word of caution to those who are new (and old!) to handling potassium. Yesterday I very foolishly disregarded (probably due to tiredness and being in a hurry) the advice I dished out to ‘elementcollector’ and used methylated spirits, INSTEAD F A LOT OF ISOPROPANOL, to react away the fines. The ethanol immediately caught fire, the flame struck inside the small meths HDPE bottle and trying to douse the flames my hand caught fire. I managed to extinguish the fire on my hand quickly and managed also to place the cap on the bottle to deprive it of oxygen. That worked but caused some more burning meths to land on my hand. After extinguishing that too, a large glass beaker was put over the primary fire and that died down instantly.

My hand suffered no lasting consequences but it did hurt a bit for most of the evening. Today it’s fine without even a scar as a memento, although it’s definitely hairless!

So, please take great care in disposing of unwanted potassium and use a large amount of IPA, while stirring constantly and do it where you can’t set fire to anything.




[Edited on 5-5-2013 by blogfast25]




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[*] posted on 5-5-2013 at 08:50


I should probably mention that when I thought I was using isopropanol, it turned out to be a weak solution of HCl that I had forgotten about.
This explains a lot.




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[*] posted on 5-5-2013 at 08:59


EC: even IPA isn't ideal because it's also flammable. But it's the lesser of evils compared to methanol, ethanol or water, especially with finely divided potassium.



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[*] posted on 6-5-2013 at 05:42


I don't like using isopropanol, personally - no matter what I do it always catches fire. In my last attempt I used a Petri dish full of IPA and dropped in very small spatula-fulls one at a time. Each time, there was a hiss, crackle, sparks, and ignition of the dish. Easy enough to blow it out, but still dangerous. In my experience, even if you use a lot of IPA to stop the potassium reaction from heating the liquid to its ignition point, the sparks produced still ignite the alcohol vapor floating over the surface.

Instead I just use a big bucket of water, halfway full, and pour in ~10mL at a time. It certainly doesn't like that, but at least water isn't flammable. If you don't fill the bucket up all the way and go slowly, nothing will splash out at you.
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[*] posted on 7-5-2013 at 06:34


I guess you're right, Mr HS, plain ole' water in copious amounts and away from flammable vapours is probably still best.



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[*] posted on 7-5-2013 at 11:17


I was under the impression that potassium was quenched by adding it to dry hexanes/toluene, and then adding dry isopropanol slowly. The hexanes dilutes the isopropanol to keep the reaction from being too vigorous, as does the slow addition of the alcohol.
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[*] posted on 19-5-2013 at 14:39


Hello, I have a couple of questions: Did anybody try to use another alcohol as catalyst? I have already ordered my t-butanol ,but til it arrives I decided to take a look at household chemicals, I found an interesting alcohol:ethylenglycol (ethanodiol) I know it is not a three or more carbons alcohol so, my question is : should I give a try with the ethylenglycol or I'm just wasting my time?

Another question. I have read the whole thread and I saw that some people say that sodium might be reduced with aluminium did anybody try this?
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[*] posted on 19-5-2013 at 15:04


There have been attempts with non-tertiary alcohols, but no successes with these so far. Only tertiary alcohols seem to work.



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[*] posted on 20-5-2013 at 06:00


If you've actually read the whole thread, then you'd know other alcohols have been tried with little success. The only other one confirmed to work so far is t-amyl alcohol, with others failing for various reasons. I posted a sort of "summary" of the thread back on page 51, I believe, if you don't want to actually read the entire thread. I just copied down posts that were relevant to my own experiments so it certainly leaves out a lot of information, but it's a start.
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[*] posted on 20-5-2013 at 06:33


Quote: Originally posted by MrHomeScientist  
If you've actually read the whole thread, then you'd know other alcohols have been tried with little success. The only other one confirmed to work so far is t-amyl alcohol, with others failing for various reasons. I posted a sort of "summary" of the thread back on page 51, I believe, if you don't want to actually read the entire thread. I just copied down posts that were relevant to my own experiments so it certainly leaves out a lot of information, but it's a start.


Yes, I downloaded your word sheet, is just that I'm a bit anxious to try the reaction:D

btw, what about aluminium reducing sodium?
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[*] posted on 20-5-2013 at 07:04


The issue with using this reaction to produce sodium is that the sodium alkoxide is much less soluble in the reaction solvent than the potassium counterpart, so it's much less (or possibly not at all) effective as a catalyst. The thought was that creating a longer chain tertiary alcohol would be necessary for Na, and there was a separate thread created in the Organics section devoted to it (this has been linked to in this thread a number of times). I don't think there was much progress on that front, unfortunately.

I was certainly anxious the first time too, especially since each failure represents 4 hours of lost time! It went surprisingly well for me in my trials, though, except for coalescence. I think I'm just not running at a high enough temperature. As long as you follow the procedures that have been proven to work by other members, you should hopefully be in the clear.


For your enjoyment, here's a short clip of me trying to dispose of the unrecoverable potassium fines. First in isopropanol, then a big bucket of water. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF79gF81-Dw

It's a very angry reaction in both, but at least the water doesn't catch fire! Use a large bucket, and slow addition. If you only fill it halfway, any splatters from the crackling K are contained in the bucket.
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[*] posted on 20-5-2013 at 07:29


Thank you so much for the video is awesome how the isopropanol reach enough temperature to self ignite.

As for the sodium how much longer has to be the chain? 6 carbons?
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[*] posted on 20-5-2013 at 08:32


I think it's not that the IPA gets hot enough to self-ignite - rather, the sparks produced by the reacting K are capable of igniting the alcohol vapor floating nearby.

I was never involved in the research for sodium production, so I don't have much information about it. I'd recommend you take a look at the "synthesis of longer tertiary chain alcohols" thread in the Organics section (at least I think that's what it was called).
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[*] posted on 21-5-2013 at 09:08


Quote: Originally posted by Toluene  
Hello, I have a couple of questions: Did anybody try to use another alcohol as catalyst? I have already ordered my t-butanol ,but til it arrives I decided to take a look at household chemicals, I found an interesting alcohol:ethylenglycol (ethanodiol) I know it is not a three or more carbons alcohol so, my question is : should I give a try with the ethylenglycol or I'm just wasting my time?

Another question. I have read the whole thread and I saw that some people say that sodium might be reduced with aluminium did anybody try this?


We're 99 % certain that only t-alcohols work: primary and secondary alcohols get chewed up very quickly in these hot, alkaline conditions. The choice of using a tertiary alcohol must have been a very deliberate one on the part of the inventors and based largely on tertiary alcohol's resistance to oxidation in alkaline conditions. p- and s- alcohols oxidise fairly easily to corresponding aldehydes, ketones or acids.

Apart from t-butanol, 2-methyl butan-2-ol (aka 2M2B) also works perfectly, it's the one I use. Longer chain (C5, C6 and higher) t-alcohols of the general structure 2 methyl alkan-2-ol could work too but are less available and as yet largely untested.

Sodium hydroxide can be reduced with Al in very messy, thermite-like conditions but it's highly unlikely to work here. Still, be a trailblazer and be the first to try it!

Magnesium seems eager to form structures like R-Mg- and R-O-Mg- (see Grignard Reactions), of aluminium that is not so evident (at least not to me)...


[Edited on 21-5-2013 by blogfast25]




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[*] posted on 24-5-2013 at 11:30


Quote: Originally posted by blogfast25  
Quote: Originally posted by Toluene  
Hello, I have a couple of questions: Did anybody try to use another alcohol as catalyst? I have already ordered my t-butanol ,but til it arrives I decided to take a look at household chemicals, I found an interesting alcohol:ethylenglycol (ethanodiol) I know it is not a three or more carbons alcohol so, my question is : should I give a try with the ethylenglycol or I'm just wasting my time?

Another question. I have read the whole thread and I saw that some people say that sodium might be reduced with aluminium did anybody try this?


We're 99 % certain that only t-alcohols work: primary and secondary alcohols get chewed up very quickly in these hot, alkaline conditions. The choice of using a tertiary alcohol must have been a very deliberate one on the part of the inventors and based largely on tertiary alcohol's resistance to oxidation in alkaline conditions. p- and s- alcohols oxidise fairly easily to corresponding aldehydes, ketones or acids.

Apart from t-butanol, 2-methyl butan-2-ol (aka 2M2B) also works perfectly, it's the one I use. Longer chain (C5, C6 and higher) t-alcohols of the general structure 2 methyl alkan-2-ol could work too but are less available and as yet largely untested.

Sodium hydroxide can be reduced with Al in very messy, thermite-like conditions but it's highly unlikely to work here. Still, be a trailblazer and be the first to try it!

Magnesium seems eager to form structures like R-Mg- and R-O-Mg- (see Grignard Reactions), of aluminium that is not so evident (at least not to me)...


[Edited on 21-5-2013 by blogfast25]


Thank you very much, My t-butanol at last arrived!, so, the sodium then may be reduced by the magnesium in the conditions of this experiment?, just using NaOH instead of KOH?

[Edited on 24-5-2013 by Toluene]

[Edited on 24-5-2013 by Toluene]
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[*] posted on 25-5-2013 at 06:38


Quote: Originally posted by Toluene  
[
Thank you very much, My t-butanol at last arrived!, so, the sodium then may be reduced by the magnesium in the conditions of this experiment?, just using NaOH instead of KOH?



Sodium is much more problematic than potassium with this method. Consult the original patent (see top of this long thread) to get a good idea of that difficulty.

Some (like me) believe longer chain t-alcohols might work better for sodium but as yet that remains an unproved hypothesis.

[Edited on 25-5-2013 by blogfast25]




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[*] posted on 25-5-2013 at 14:12


I'm going to give this a shot. My t-butanol came in the other day. Will this be a good substitute for the Shellsol D70?

http://images.tikibrand.com/lamplight/llfwholesale/knowledge...

Boiling point seems to be about the right range.
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[*] posted on 26-5-2013 at 04:43


Yes, as perfect as can be.

I'm always glad to see someone else having a stab at this preparation, so good luck!

[Edited on 26-5-2013 by blogfast25]




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[*] posted on 27-5-2013 at 06:53


Hello,

Yesterday I tried to produce sodium metal from NaOH, aluminium and the T-BuOH, I grinded aluminium foil in a coffee grinder to make it finer, I followed all the instructions and I got nothing, the truth is that I didn't measure the reagents properly since my precision scale hasn't arrived yet, I'll keep trying on this method
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[*] posted on 27-5-2013 at 08:21


It need magnesium, not aluminium.



I never asked for this.
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[*] posted on 27-5-2013 at 09:26


Quote:
Quote: Originally posted by plante1999  
It need magnesium, not aluminium.


Yes, that is what it seems, but, If you can reduce it with aluminium under thermite conditions, why not try in this ones?, By the way, the sodium hydroxide turned brownish after 3 hours of refluxing and adding the catalyst, but the aluminium is still pretty shiny :(
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[*] posted on 27-5-2013 at 11:42


Toluene:

As I wrote on 21/5:

"Magnesium seems eager to form structures like R-Mg- and R-O-Mg- (see Grignard Reactions), of aluminium that is not so evident (at least not to me)..."

You're comparing apples and oranges. The reaction with magnesium requires a specific catalyst, clearly specific TO Mg, not to Al.

[Edited on 27-5-2013 by blogfast25]




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[*] posted on 28-5-2013 at 08:02


Quote: Originally posted by blogfast25  
Toluene:

As I wrote on 21/5:

"Magnesium seems eager to form structures like R-Mg- and R-O-Mg- (see Grignard Reactions), of aluminium that is not so evident (at least not to me)..."

You're comparing apples and oranges. The reaction with magnesium requires a specific catalyst, clearly specific TO Mg, not to Al.

[Edited on 27-5-2013 by blogfast25]


Thank you, since my magnesium seems that doesn't want to arrive, I'm trying it with a metal sharpener (wich I think doesn't have a very pure magnesium content), results this night :cool:r
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[*] posted on 1-6-2013 at 06:42


I’ve been toying with the idea of recovering the catalyst in some way or other and have made a first step in that direction today. As I wrote above on this page:
Quote: Originally posted by blogfast25  

Another observation (which I’ve made several times) is the following. One objective of this test was to explore the possibility of catalyst recovery/recycling. I’ve noticed many times that the supernatant post-reaction solvent, when decanted off and allowed too cool settles to a viscous, even jelly like material. The proposed reaction mechanism predicts that all catalyst is present in the solvent as the relevant potassium alkoxide, thus the solvent should in principle be recoverable without further to do.

Alternatively, treatment with acid should hydrolyse the potassium alkoxide to salt and the alcohol in question (but the alcohol is soluble in the solvent, of course). Today I checked the supernatant liquid that I had set aside and a whitish, jelly like precipitate had separated out. Could this be potassium 2-methyl butan-2-oxide? I’ve yet to decide what to do with it but there’s enough for two small scale tests.


The supernatant with its white/greyish precipitate had been parafilmed and set aside for a few weeks and the consistency of the liquid had returned completely to that of the virgin solvent. The precipitate had collected at the bottom. This was filtered off and washed with a bit of xylene (the only solvent I had at hand that is miscible with kerosene and is quite volatile too), then it allowed to dry for a few days. It then looked like this (on a 110 mm filter paper):



There’s 4.17 g of it.

This was mixed with about 20 ml of water but it’s quite hydrophobic. Then slowly about 30 ml of 36 % HCl was added. It turned out that the darker matter was mostly unreacted magnesium, so the addition was done carefully and the solution heated up very considerably.

If the product contains potassium alkoxide then it should have been hydrolysed acc.:

KOR + HCl → KCl + ROH

Half way through the HCl addition I could already see an oily phase beginning to form on top. After the addition, most of the watery phase (presumed MgCl2 + KCl solution) was separated with a separation funnel, the rest of the mixture was decanted off into a normal size test tube. The organic phase (quite murky) can clearly be seen:



Although it smells of 2-methyl-2-butanol (t-amyl alcohol, the catalyst used) it can’t be excluded that traces of the original kerosene or xylene may be present in this organic phase. I happen to have a micro-still (max capacity 3 ml) and will now try and distil over the presumed 2M2B to get a crude BP.

Edit:

The micro-distillation’s results were a bit inconclusive: 0.5 ml (or thereabouts) is a bit little for a pre-distillation work up and just adding some CaCl2 didn’t really cut it. The result was bumpiness and no way to determine an accurate BP. I did get three drops of turbid distillate that reeked of 2-methyl-2-butanol. But it’s probably heavily contaminated with water and some of the excess HCl.

This is the micro-still:



Right: thermometer; Centre: silicone oil bath and boiler; Bottom: micro-burner (methanol); Top: still head; Left: fractionating tray.



[Edited on 1-6-2013 by blogfast25]

[Edited on 1-6-2013 by blogfast25]




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