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Author: Subject: Det Cap Strategies
pjig
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[*] posted on 31-8-2024 at 09:32


The arrow shafts tend to be larger dia. This is better for a couple reasons . The alloy is harder aluminum, the dia allows electric match to fit in the hole, and the charge is able to pack lower in the tube allowing less length cap body needed. Skinny tubes fill up quickly.
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UndermineBriarEverglade
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smile.gif posted on 5-9-2024 at 13:47


Quote: Originally posted by UndermineBriarEverglade  
Yeah terribly low density. The small (rapid pour) acetone-formed crystals are very fluffy even when pressed hard. 500mg sounds good, I will melt cast a thin layer and then crumble it up to make the output segment.


450mg ETN output segment: melt-cast, then crumbled to fit into cap, then pressed. 11.55mm height x 6mm inner diameter tube = 1.38 g/cm3

50mg loose crystals on top for EBW

Setup of cap on the 1mm plate was the same as before. The hole from the bottom of the cap is not much larger than before. But a large hole was created at the side. Looks like the plate was pulled apart. Popped the lid off my bucket of cat litter!


after.jpg - 402kB
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[*] posted on 5-9-2024 at 16:22


https://youtu.be/2hT9GQ74Rnk

So I just watched this video and it answered quite a lot of inquiries I had about detonators, and It really got me thinking about a lot of stuff. Like with regards to e-matches, he uses professionally made ones, but the examples of his homemade stuff just seem lack luster. With my NHN I use a nichrome wire that is over a safety match to provide a fairly decent flame that I do believe has been sufficient to set off my detonators, so I will continue to use it as is.

But what he did mention about things like reinforced detonators, which is a term I heard before but was unsure as to how it looked like. I also did see how he used an arbor press to REALLY press his ETN hard into the cap.

I will never do that and I will stick to hand pressing as I always did, but it did make me think. Since he used multi-stage pressing, with the bottom most layer being the most hard pressed, with the 2nd half more lightly pressed, and maybe topped off with a more tamped amount of ETN before the tamped primary mixture.

I haven't loaded any of my detonators for the next test, since my next test is mostly about how bottomless (but taped) will fare vs. aluminum ball + taped caps. I think that is a good thing to add to the experiment.
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[*] posted on 6-9-2024 at 04:30


Small parts from output side of detonator show on full detonation ETN. Your EBW look reliable......:cool:...Good work



Development of primarily - secondary substances CHP (2015) Lithex (2022) Brightelite (2023) Nitrocelite and KC primer (2024)
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[*] posted on 9-9-2024 at 11:42


I thought of something. Since brisance is a very important part of the energetics used in detonators I wonder if I should try a new mixture.

According to Wikipedia a 50:50 mixture of melt-cast ETN and PETN by weight makes for an extremely brisant explosive, with a VoD of close to 9,000 meters per second. Since I do have some PETN (recystalized once) I want to try it out.

My one question is this: should I just mix the powders together or should I try to melt the ETN with the PETN? I saw one of Dugan Boomfax's videos where this was done. I assume the latter would be better since it would mesh the two materials together better. But I have been wrong in the past.

What do you guys think?
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Sir_Gawain
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[*] posted on 9-9-2024 at 14:13


50/50? Shouldn't it be 66/34 ETN/PETN for oxygen balancing?

[Edited on 9-9-2024 by Sir_Gawain]




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[*] posted on 9-9-2024 at 15:21


Quote: Originally posted by Sir_Gawain  
50/50? Shouldn't it be 66/34 ETN/PETN for oxygen balancing?

[Edited on 9-9-2024 by Sir_Gawain]


I quoted wikipedia's article on ETN. As quoted below

Quote:
Mixtures of melt-cast ETN with PETN (about 50:50% by weight) are about the most brisant explosives that can be produced by moderately equipped amateurs. These mixtures have Pcj slightly above 300 kbar and detonation velocity above 8 km/s. This is close to the maximum of fielded military explosives like LX-10 or EDC-29 (about 370 kbar and close to 9 km/s)


I did notice that there are no citations for this statement. I also reviewed Dugan Boomfax's video on ETN where he does cite a 65:35 ratio of ETN:PETN and he DOES melt-cast them together and grind them up afterward. In this situation I believe you are correct. A greater ratio of ETN would be more desirable in this case.

So this is what I will do. I will melt-cast ETN and PETN together in that ratio and grind up as finely as I can (with all safety considerations obviously...) and I will use that to load up my blasting caps for my next test.

And for the loading, I will load up the first 50% of the cap with hard hand pressing before more lightly pressing the rest. Gotta get that explosive train going!
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[*] posted on 3-10-2024 at 07:11


ManyInterests, if you are making 10 caps at a time I would actually recommend NOT to use melt-cast ETN. In August I made some ETN, neutralized with baking soda, recrystallized several times with acetone, and crashed into urea solution. I stored melt-cast fragments to use for output stages and fluffy crystals to use for initiation, both at room temperature. Recently the melt-cast fragments began to decompose and release significant red NO2. Thankfully I caught it in time. The original crystals haven't decomposed at all. I think that heating accelerated decomposition. Scary to think of 10 confined ETN samples fuming where you can't see them.

[Edited on 2024-10-3 by UndermineBriarEverglade]
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[*] posted on 13-10-2024 at 12:45


OK... so my trip was informative, but also kinda disappointing.

I actually made... 20 detonators! Yeah, I was going really hardcore with this and I was hoping to get enough information to say that I know how to make a good detonator and call it a day. But I had some surprises.

I made detonators using aluminum bodies (6063 aluminum alloy), 5.56x45mm shell casings and 7.62x39mm shell casings, and 304 steel tubes with the ends cut off.

For the brass bodies, I had pushed out the spent primer and drilled as wide a hole as I could in the bottom and loaded it to go from the hardest point to the mouth. Thus learning from my previous mistake of thinking that I can just load it from the top and call it a day.

I made two variants of all my caps. Half had aluminum foil plugs (very thin 0.5-1mm plugs at the most) and then added a little tape to waterproof it, and the other half only had tape at the end to waterproof it and prevent any energetics from crumbling out.

I loaded the caps as follows: First half the melt-cast ETN was loaded and pressed as hard as I could by hand, followed by the second half with decent pressing but not as hard as the first. Then around 0.32g of 1:1 melt-cast ETN:NHN mix primary was added on top and only gently tamped without any strong pressing (less than 1kg pressure). For 12 of the caps, I used around 1.14g of ETN in the caps.

6 caps (2 aluminum, 2 steel, and 2 brass, again with half having foil and the other half only tape) were loaded with 1.05g of 65:35 ETN/PETN melt-cast together. The primary loading is the same as above

I also made 2 100mm caps that had around 3.25g of melt-cast ETN and 0.4g of the same primary mixture. These were extremely powerful and practically obliterated large parts of the witness plate.

So I only posted pictures of the steel caps. Because one thing that I found is that the aluminum caps did not appear to have any effect on the witness plate. In fact, it was almost like I was using my old plastic cap bodies for them. The brass caps also didn't perform well at all, merely bending the side of the fence bracket (that is what I am using for a witness plate). This was the case across the board for all the energetic materials I was using, whether it is ETN or ETN: PETN mix.

The steel caps, however, performed excellently. As LL says, he uses thicker steel bodies than I do, but mostly bottomless, and he has produced great results.

The bottomless steel caps with ETN did better than the ones with aluminum plugs. The ones with the PETN loading did almost equally as well regardless of the aluminum plug or just tape.

However there is the question as to why the others failed to fully detonate. I watched Dugan Boomfax's video on detonators and one thing that he did mention that when the output fails to fully detonate it means that there could have been insufficient primary to set it off, or that it does need to be pressed more (the primary that is).

Or the alternative is that the NHN is simply not as good of an initiating agent as I thought. While it with a steel body it appears to be good enough, I am wondering if I should experiment with other primaries, like iNAP. I am very accustomed to working with the fairly safe NHN, but I think iNAP can be made safe to work with, especially if it is loaded as gently and tamped as gently as I do with the NHN.

Foil - Copy - Copy.jpg - 553kB Tape-1 - Copy - Copy.jpg - 690kB Tape-2 - Copy - Copy.jpg - 579kB 100mm-1 - Copy - Copy.jpg - 545kB 100mm-2 - Copy - Copy.jpg - 518kB

[Edited on 13-10-2024 by ManyInterests]

[Edited on 13-10-2024 by ManyInterests]
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Sir_Gawain
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[*] posted on 13-10-2024 at 13:26


I think your problem might be with the ETN/NHN mixture. I’ve used pure NHN with great success (~200mg per detonator). I think the ETN just slows down the burn rate, preventing it from undergoing DDT.



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[*] posted on 13-10-2024 at 14:59


Quote: Originally posted by Sir_Gawain  
I think your problem might be with the ETN/NHN mixture. I’ve used pure NHN with great success (~200mg per detonator). I think the ETN just slows down the burn rate, preventing it from undergoing DDT.


Yes, I will revert to using only NHN and not the mixture that LL recommended.

BTW, there is an earlier thread of a spiked NHN with sodium chlorate that the maker said was very effective, what do you think of that?
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[*] posted on 16-10-2024 at 08:01


Actually on second thought, I think LL's mixture is fine, Or maybe make caps with one pure nhn and the other mix to have a direct comparison. I just need a more robust primary for the other cap types. I will try uNAP and see if it is able to make stuff in plastic or aluminum bodies go off.

One other thing I would want to do is to load brass caps from the top, as I did previously, but obviously have the bottoms fully drilled out as wide as I can and just tape added. This is because looking at the latest stuff it seems like like the older ones with thr ends still on did better... it makes me wonder how the bottomless ones would perform.

I will make another eight caps (four steel and four brass) for testing. Moderate pressing on all the ETN, with half having 0.3g of pure nhn and the other around the same of an nhn etn mix.
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