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Sulaiman
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Posts: 3735
Registered: 8-2-2015
Location: 3rd rock from the sun
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not quite as hoped
I decided to recover lead from two vrla batteries.
I tried a few rotary power tools but they snatch too easily
A small hand axe / hatchet placed on the seam
hit with a lump hammer / mallet opens up everything in seconds with little mess or danger.
Each cell had four plates in shiny condition.
From those I got 1.4 kg of lead
(commonly alloyed with antimony, calcium or other secret recipe ingredients)
the rest of the battery contents were VERY corroded plates, various small pieces of lead, lead dioxide and fibers.
I removed most of the fibrous material and put the rest in a pot and cooked it to get more lead.
Result : the lead dioxide decomposed to lead oxide,
releasing lots of oxygen,
which converted almost all of the lead to lead oxide 
not exactly what I expected.
this is the pot of cooked stuff
the matchstick-like pieces were lead metal
on the left is a solder pot for making a nice pill-shaped lump of any recovered lead
this is one of the sticks broken in half
not much lead left in there.
So other than carbothermal reduction (lead in vapour phase = no thank you)
is there a simple cheap way to reduce the oxide ?
a slightly clearer view of the cooked contents
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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Sulaiman
International Hazard
Posts: 3735
Registered: 8-2-2015
Location: 3rd rock from the sun
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(stainless steel pot) + (oxygen) + (heat) =
It does not matter because it was ex-kitchen,
but I fancy cleaning it up anyway.
I have some potentially relevant acids in stock:
oxalic, citric, acetic and hydrochloric.
I've previously used a mixture of oxalic and citric acids for successfully cleaning stainless steel,
but not with this much corrosion.
any suggestions ?
[Edited on 1-1-2025 by Sulaiman]
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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bnull
Hazard to Others
Posts: 484
Registered: 15-1-2024
Location: South of the border, wherever the border is.
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Mood: Happy New Year!
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First step: an alkaline bath to dissolve some of the polymerized oil. Sodium hydroxide with a little detergent is fine. You may prefer to leave it
steeping in hydroxide at room temperature until most of the polygunk has softened or dissolved, or for 4 days to be on the safe side.
Second step: a nice rubbing with a wire brush to remove the most stubborn flecks of polygunk. It is not necessary to make it shiny again.
Third step: acid bath. I have used citric acid, hydrochloric acid, a mixture of citric and hydrochloric acid (who knows why), acetic acid, and oxalic
acid. The winner was oxalic acid. The only downside is that you need to brush it occasionally to remove any adhering oxalate, especially when the
surface is pitted. Hydrochloric acid is too corrosive for me and tends to make a mist. Acetic acid sort of stinks. A mixture of citric and oxalic
acids will do. But you need to remove the polygunk first.
Quod scripsi, scripsi.
B. N. Ull
P.S.: Did you know that we have a Library?
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chloric1
International Hazard
Posts: 1150
Registered: 8-10-2003
Location: GroupVII of the periodic table
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Mood: Stoichiometrically Balanced
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Made about and ounce of barium bromide but was expecting more, oh well. The barium carbonate I started with was technical grade so I used a slight
excess and converted barium waste to chloride first then to barium sulfate with Epsom salts. It’s white so I assume it’s sulfur free but I may
have barium thiosulfate as an impurity so I have a waste jar with barium sulfate milk in it. When I get 100 grams of barium sulfate, I’ll try to
carbothermic reduction to barium sulfide. Any barium sulfate that doesn’t react, I’ll have a separate jar for “black ash barium”
Also make a few tens of grams of ammonium nitrate from isolating waste nitric acid by distillation. The nitric acid obtained was rather weak so I
just poured ammonia into it until pH 7. Slight excess
Fellow molecular manipulator
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