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Author: Subject: methyl nitrate
VladimirLem
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[*] posted on 15-3-2013 at 07:46


Quote:
Quote: Originally posted by SherlockHolmes  
I did not expect that the damage would be so small.



wtf?

u're getting stroppy cause the steel-target havent got more damage?

how about putting the ignitor ONTOP of the charge (like a shaped charge) to force the detonation to move towards the steelplate and not to the side of the charge? ;)





[Edited on 15-3-2013 by VladimirLem]
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SherlockHolmes
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[*] posted on 15-3-2013 at 09:04


Exactly detonator had to do but I knew until after the test :mad:



Sorry for my english. I am not from England. Thank you!
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Ral123
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[*] posted on 1-5-2013 at 07:06


I had s cup of water/ammonia with MN on the bottom for storage. It appears the MN dissolves in the water and evaporates from the top, even trough the layer is on the bottom. After a week there's no MN in the cup, only water. Is it possible that some other process has taken place?
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WGTR
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[*] posted on 17-4-2014 at 08:47


This looks like the generic methyl/ethyl nitrate thread, so I think this is the right place to post this.

I have an issue that might seem unusual. I'm trying to not make ethyl nitrate. I'm actually interested in making glyoxal (to synthesize ionic liquids), and am trying to avoid performing any unintentional nitrations. This is basically a sanity check of sorts, to make sure that I'm not doing something stupid. I have little experience reacting nitric acid with organics, so I'm approaching this with caution.

Debus originally made glyoxal by oxidizing ethyl alcohol slowly with nitric acid at "ordinary temperatures".

glyoxal_debus.jpg - 98kB

Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society of London, Volume 148

Generally they would do this by carefully pouring the alcohol on top of the acid, so that two layers would form without mixing. The reaction would gradually occur by diffusion of the two layers.

My old friend Debus was a very smart guy, but he lived during a time when people pipetted chemicals with their mouths, and tasted unknown substances to identify them. I hope he will forgive me for not trusting his procedures 100%.

A newer patent is a bit more descriptive, but starts directly from acetaldehyde:

Attachment: US3429929.pdf (224kB)
This file has been downloaded 642 times

I intend to use the methods from the patent, but rather start from ethyl alcohol instead, to attempt performing a one-pot reaction.

Basically, the plan is to react 0.5% copper(II) oxide (catalyst) with 50% nitric acid solution. A small amount of sodium nitrite (initiates reaction) will be added to absolute alcohol, and then the nitric acid will be slowly added under stirring to the alcohol (maybe over 1-2 hours). The temperature will be maintained at 40°C with a water/ice bath. Naturally, this will have to be done on reflux to keep the acetaldehyde from escaping.

Note that I'm forming nitrous acid in situ, that there is water in the reaction (50% nitric acid), and that the acid is being added slowly to keep the temperature at 40°C.

Am I properly avoiding the conditions that would perform a nitration?
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ManyInterests
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[*] posted on 23-7-2024 at 01:43


Since I want to make some methyl nitrate to experiment with mixing it with nitrostarch to see if it does form a kind of plastic explosive with that, I just do have some questions to ask mostly about some safe storage and disposal since it could be a few weeks before I use it. Someone mentioned that putting it in a fridge or even freezer in a sealed container can be a good way of preserving it. Is this correct?

As for how I intend to make it. I will be making it in a simple nitration mixture. The proportions will be taken from the improvised munitions handbook (80ml of methanol, 145ml of 95% sulfuric acid, and 95ml of azeotropic nitric acid) and I will be washing it with a saline solution and drying with calcium chloride.
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Microtek
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[*] posted on 23-7-2024 at 08:23


I agree that well neutralized, washed and dried methyl nitrate could probably be stored for a long time in a sealed container made of a suitable material. Putting it in the freezer could also be a good idea since one of the big issues with methyl nitrate is its volatility.
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ManyInterests
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[*] posted on 23-7-2024 at 09:38


This webpage documents the cleaning process I will follow, but not the synthesis. It involves a lot of washing, which is something I am comfortable with. Especially with ice cold water since methyl nitrate is not very soluble in very cold water and it loves being cold.

For the synthesis, I will cool down the nirating mixture on its own in the freezer for at least 12 hours and I will also have a large glass bowl of ice water to float it in while I add the mixture. That way if anything seems wrong I can immediately overturn the beaker into th water and prevent an accident.
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dettoo456
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[*] posted on 24-7-2024 at 08:09


If you’re planning to store the MeONO2 too, aside from it being in a freezer, make sure to vent it at least 1X a week and make sure to limit its exposure to UV as much as possible.

Try to invest in a full face shield (or full face respirator) and a Kevlar scarf too; glass shrapnel is no joke :D
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[*] posted on 24-7-2024 at 14:28


Quote: Originally posted by dettoo456  
If you’re planning to store the MeONO2 too, aside from it being in a freezer, make sure to vent it at least 1X a week and make sure to limit its exposure to UV as much as possible.

Try to invest in a full face shield (or full face respirator) and a Kevlar scarf too; glass shrapnel is no joke :D


I have both. I have kelvar sleeves I can use to make a scarf.

I won't store it for long. Like maybe I will keep it for 10 days or so at the most. I might not put it in a glass container, but rather a plastic one I might wrap it plastic wrap.

If you look at the proportions I will be using, the end product might be over 100 grams Not sure if anything can protect me if it goes off... just how sensitive IS methyl nitrate? I saw videos where people smacked it really hard with heavy hammers (on makeshift steel anvils, too) and it did not detonate.

When I make it into a charge, I'll be using a cardboard tube with an epoxy plug on one end, I am thinking of closing the other end after I insert the detonator (a 1g melt-cast ETN charge with 0.3g of ETN:NHN mixture in a .223 Remington case... an overkill I know) This will make venting impossible, and when the epoxy hardens, it generates a lot of heat. I will be doing this the night before I go to see how much of a bang it makes.
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Sir_Gawain
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[*] posted on 24-7-2024 at 19:42


Why don't you make it into dynamite? It seems like it would be much easier and safer to handle that way. Add methyl nitrate to a mixture of ammonium nitrate and flour or fine sawdust until it is saturated, but not dripping.



“Alchemy is trying to turn things yellow; chemistry is trying to avoid things turning yellow.” -Tom deP.
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[*] posted on 24-7-2024 at 19:57


Quote: Originally posted by Sir_Gawain  
Why don't you make it into dynamite? It seems like it would be much easier and safer to handle that way. Add methyl nitrate to a mixture of ammonium nitrate and flour or fine sawdust until it is saturated, but not dripping.


That is exactly what I intend to do! I mentioned before that I intend to make it into a plastic explosive by mixing it with nitrostarch. The ratio is 10:1 of methyl nitrate to nitrostarch.
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Sir_Gawain
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[*] posted on 24-7-2024 at 21:22


Quote: Originally posted by ManyInterests  

That is exactly what I intend to do! I mentioned before that I intend to make it into a plastic explosive by mixing it with nitrostarch. The ratio is 10:1 of methyl nitrate to nitrostarch.
Like blasting gelatin, great! A gel or plastic is much better than liquid.



“Alchemy is trying to turn things yellow; chemistry is trying to avoid things turning yellow.” -Tom deP.
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Microtek
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[*] posted on 25-7-2024 at 09:11


We've talked about excessively cold nitrations before. A mixed acid that is too cold can lead to runaway more easily than one that is the proper temperature. I suggest you make a salt-ice bath and use that to cool the nitration mix to about 0 C, and then maintain the temp at 0-5 C by adjusting the speed of addition of the methanol. That way, the reaction has a chance to approach equilibrium before too much substrate (methanol) is in the mix.
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[*] posted on 25-7-2024 at 16:51


Quote: Originally posted by Microtek  
We've talked about excessively cold nitrations before. A mixed acid that is too cold can lead to runaway more easily than one that is the proper temperature. I suggest you make a salt-ice bath and use that to cool the nitration mix to about 0 C, and then maintain the temp at 0-5 C by adjusting the speed of addition of the methanol. That way, the reaction has a chance to approach equilibrium before too much substrate (methanol) is in the mix.


Understood. I will cool the nitration mix in the fridge and not the freezer. That way it'll be closer to 0 C than -10C or so before the stuff is added. I will also add the methanol slower than what the improvised munitions handbook recommends (half teaspoon (2.5ml) per minute or so. I will add a little less than that amount every 3 or 4 minutes and monitor carefully.

I assume the same thing should be done with things like EGDN, DEGDN, and Nitroglycerine?

Quote: Originally posted by Sir_Gawain  
Quote: Originally posted by ManyInterests  

That is exactly what I intend to do! I mentioned before that I intend to make it into a plastic explosive by mixing it with nitrostarch. The ratio is 10:1 of methyl nitrate to nitrostarch.
Like blasting gelatin, great! A gel or plastic is much better than liquid.


Yep, I wonder why anyone thought I would be using plain methyl nitrate. I got the idea from Tim Lewis's kitchen improvised explosives. I did ask around and it seemed that the idea of nitrostarch mixing with a liquid explosive to form a putty is quite plausible, and it will be more stable than plain methyl nitrate. Albeit it must still be used ASAP.

Even the Improvised Munitions Handbook section on methyl nitrate has instructions to use it as a dynamite. They suggest using shredded cloth, paper, or sawdust as an absorbent material. I did not know that flour could work, too. I am also guessing that diatomaceous earth would work well with methyl nitrate.
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