shiftily2
Harmless
Posts: 2
Registered: 13-3-2014
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Potassium Ferricyanide to Potassium Ferrocyanide crystalizing
Potassium Ferricyanide to Potassium Ferrocyanide is a little tricky on makeing it correct crystals.
1. Potassium Ferricyanide in saturated solution with approx 7% to 8% Sodium Hydroxide for alkalynity.
2. Add to latter, approx 10% of latter's weight, some Hydrogen Peroxide- slowly or great fizz.
3. Medium evaporation heat approx 60 C until about 1 eithth of orignial amount is in beaker, and most likely some crystals. The next step begins the
more tricky part: crystalization and correct color (should be pea-green yellow. Not necessariy orange or badge. This could be a slightly different
molecular combination that a good Potassium Ferrocyanide).
Problem: Three variables are required in a simple crystalization of this solution. 1.) heat 2. alkalinity with or in addition to Hydorgen peroxide.
3). The magic ingrediant (Ultraviolet Light or simple sunlight quantity (I call it "magic" because it makes so much difference, actually a necessary
difference, then messing around constantly with the alkalinity and/or H2O2 combination.)
Heat: Mostest slow evaporation is always a good yeald. Sadder for your time, yet wiser.
Alkalinaty: It sould be high alkaline of Potassium Fericyanide, but remember, the final product, if using too much Sodium Hydoxide, will be in your
final product. Lots of the S. Hydroxide in such is bad. The Hydrogen Peroxide should also be a modest amount approx 10 to 12 percent and no more. As
the evaporation and post evaporation process continues, one will be adding increments of 5ml to the solution. Note: If too much H2O2 or the other two
chemicals (viz: sodium hydroxide and/or sunlight, the solugion will go to blue and one will have to get it back to a usable substance with Chlorine
gas bubbled threw it. The color after the latter will be a dark green that should crystalize (with enough chlorine gas-...er...a...don't snuff the
chlorine gas...I did and had to pray Experts included.
Lastly, a pea-green paste is the ideal color for the evaporation to crystals. The paste is spread on any flat glass surface. Set it to dry indoors
(light or no light is not important). When the stuff dries in about a day or two it will most likely have some oragne fringes in or around it. maybe
the whole thing will be orange. Yet, set this outdoors in the sunlight and keep an eye on it for about a couple hours. It should turn a nice yellow
pea-green color. Good Potassium Ferrocyanide. Note: It may be that the orange druing the last evaporation and crystalizing process persists. I add a
few drops of H2O2 to the evaporation and the drying in the sun I spear a few drops of H2O2 around on the top of the evaporation paste. After setting
outside the orange will turn to yellow light green. This may need to be done a few times to get the right color.
|
|
|
S.C. Wack
bibliomaster
Posts: 2419
Registered: 7-5-2004
Location: Cornworld, Central USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Enhanced
|
|
Quote: Originally posted by shiftily2  | Potassium Ferricyanide to Potassium Ferrocyanide is a little tricky on makeing it correct crystals.
1. Potassium Ferricyanide in saturated solution with approx 7% to 8% Sodium Hydroxide for alkalynity. |
It would have crystallized very nicely if the calculated amount of potassium something was used.
|
|
|
shiftily2
Harmless
Posts: 2
Registered: 13-3-2014
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
I should say, perhaps, that the Potassium Ferricyanide is in saturated solution with distilled water. Again, If these spellings are incorrect I beg
your pardon and will certainly endeavor to get a good spell checker. Lastly, the point is that a dark green paste from an alkaline solution of
Potassium Ferricynide with enough Hydrogen Peroxide to get it to change to Potassium Ferrocyanide only need a little vacillating around in and out of
the sun to get the nice yellow color.
|
|
|
Nicodem
|
Thread Moved
16-3-2014 at 01:37 |
![[*]](images/xpblue/default_icon.gif){kind=icon}
