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Author: Subject: Extraction of gallotannin - Ideal method?
Intergalactic_Captain
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[*] posted on 17-7-2008 at 05:47
Extraction of gallotannin - Ideal method?


So, the other day I was roving wikipedia and came across the topic of leather tanning. I know it ain't news to a lot of you guys, but as it turns out Sumac (I'm using staghorn) is 4% by weight gallotannin - Not sure if that's wet or dry, but either way it's a rediculously huge number for most useful plant chemicals. Some research has shown that the traditional method is probably the best on a large scale, ie. the use of water to extract the tannin. I've 3 basic methods to choose from;

1 - long, cold steep in water at ambient temp

2 - shorter steep in 40-60degC water

3 - My steam stilll, basically a 55-gallon retrofitted moonshine still which runs a steam line to 2 stacked 5 gallon buckets, the top (packed with plant material) with a hole to let condensate drip to the bottom one.

I'd like to go with #3, I've already proven its utility on a few other plants. However, I'm worried about heat - Every reference I've seen says that the hotter you extract, the darker your leather will tan... Are we talking oxidation, polymerization, coagulation, or something else? If someone could elaborate on the chemistry here I'd greatly appreciate it.

Ideally I'd like to have a dry, solid product for ease of use. Merck says that chlorophylls are soluble in benzene (while gallotannin isn't), so I figure a couple of organic washes on a concentrated aqueous tannin extract should take care of that plus any natural waxes.

Oh, and I'm not planning on tanning leather, so please keep your answers to the chemistry rather than the history.




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12AX7
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[*] posted on 17-7-2008 at 10:28


It's my understanding that galls (oak gall "nuts", nubs seen on the underside of leaves, etc.) and oak wood in general are quite rich in gallotannins, to the tune of tens of percent.

I once tried making a "gall tea", but got no reaction at all with iron (it should instantly form a purple-black complex).

Tim




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[*] posted on 17-7-2008 at 10:50


I believe only certain types of galls work for that. Red oak acorns sure as hell work. Boil a few in water and then add a tiny bit of ferrous salt solution (I had rusty nails soaking in vinegar) and it goes inky-black. I did this before I even really got into chemistry as an attempt to dye cloth black without store bought dyes (I got gray at best).

http://www.scrd.net/scrd_new/anglais/c_nat/extraits_veg/suma...
This suggests that the tannins break down under heat, which is undesirable for tanning leather. I'd pulverize the dried leaf matter and extract with warm water, then evaporate.

[Edited on 7-17-08 by UnintentionalChaos]




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[*] posted on 17-7-2008 at 12:16


I actually read that one the other day, can't believe I didn't remember it...I suppose I'll probably go with warm water. I'm waiting on the leaves to dry now, they're turning a nice healthy brown. And yes, I understand that galls are the best, but I could quite literally pick a half ton of leaves and barely put a dent in the amount of sumac growing around me.



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[*] posted on 17-7-2008 at 17:27


You can solublize many polyphenolic compounds by treatment with alkali at high temperatures.

I have seen extracts made this way turn black on contact with air, which implies oxidation to quinone-form and subsequent oxidative addition.

Cheers,

O3




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