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Author: Subject: Converting paintball tanks for willgerodt and other interesting things...
evil_lurker
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[*] posted on 26-1-2008 at 16:34
Converting paintball tanks for willgerodt and other interesting things...


Well after 4 loong years, I have officially found out what kind of thread is on those cheap 9 oz steel paintball tanks.

Its a National Pipe Thread Straight size 9/16"-18 (threads per inch), which just so happens coinkydinkly to be the same size thread on mose muzzle loader breech plugs.



But that won't do me much good, so I managed to find a compatable plug made by Parker, part number 6P5ON found on page 12 of their catalog here:

http://www.parker.com/icd/pdf/Pipe%20ISO%20Catalog%204260.pd...

Now then, the question is, what kind of corrosion resistance will the cylinders have in the ammonia/sulfur/pyridine reaction mixture?

I'm thinking that since the 9 oz cylinders are made out of chrome-moly steel, they will be somewhat prone to getting eat up by the ammonia, and will need some sort of coating on the inner cylinder to provide chemical resistance and/or prvent side reactions.

I'm thinking that perhaps a gold or platinum plating would work, or perhaps teflon.

Any suggestions?




Not all chemicals are bad. Without chemicals such as hydrogen and oxygen, for example, there would be no way to make water, a vital ingredient in beer.
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Mr. Wizard
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[*] posted on 26-1-2008 at 16:45


Ammonia and ammonia in water do not corrode steel or iron to any extent when not exposed to oxygen. I say this because propane tank trucks are made of steel and they are used in the summer time to deliver anhydrous ammonia to farms. Not all propane truck can do this, only those with no copper or brass fittings or valves, which ammonia DOES attack. Ammonia refrigerators that run on heat from a propane flame are all steel and are full of a concentrated ammonia solution.

Sulfur also quickly attacks copper and brass as well. I don't know about steel, but I expect it does, especially at elevated temperatures.
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[*] posted on 26-1-2008 at 19:39


I'd get a teflon bottle and run it in that. I have some 2L ETFE bottles that are good to 3 bar. I know I posted photos somewhere...

Anyways, you can get them for 50-100 each (or 370 ea from VWR) and they last forever.




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evil_lurker
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[*] posted on 26-1-2008 at 21:32


Yeah I was looking at those... they appear to be made out of some tuff stuff... don't know how they would handle under pressure though.

There was a seller on Ebay that had some 250ml ones for $50 plus shipping.

Another thought is to run the reaction in a stainless tri-clover setup.

I figure a 2" tee would work well, with caps and PTFE seals on all the ends... if not I can still use them on my moonshine still.









Judging by some scematics I've seen, the apparatus would hold approx 300-350ml with 100-150ml of headspace in the middle tee.

I think it woud seal up OK.. I know you can take one of those tri-clover fittings and really screw down on that PTFE seal.. plus when it heats up it will swell some more making an even tighter seal... worse case scenario add a little paste type PTFE pipe sealant on it.

Heating could be as easy as a small cheap tabletop convection toaster ovens set @ 325ºF for 4-5 hours. That way it could be set up outdoors so that in case of explosion nothing much would damaged other than the oven itself.

[Edited on 26-1-2008 by evil_lurker]




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[*] posted on 31-1-2008 at 23:33


And what it looks like when its all put together...



Well what do ya'll think?

[Edited on 1-2-2008 by evil_lurker]




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[*] posted on 1-2-2008 at 11:19


That's a nice looking piece of equipment. At first I was wondering why the tee shape. I suppose that is so that gas can collect in the upright branch and be drawn off there if required. It would also be a good spot for a pressure guage and a thermocouple port. What is the material of construction? And what do they want for this little beauty?



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not_important
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[*] posted on 1-2-2008 at 19:09


While that certainly is shiny and has a nice industrial feel, I'm going to toss out an idea related to the origins of this thread.

You can get fluorocarbon coating mixtures, and powdered Teflon for lubricating purposes. It might be practical to coat the interior of a paintball tank to increase its chemical resistance.

To get a full coating you'll likely have to apply and fuse the coating using three different orientations for the bottom, top, and sidewall of the tank. Surface preparation will be needed, perhaps to the point of abrading the surface. You'll want good ventilation during the sinter heating phase, unless you seal the tank, as fluorocarbon vapours are somewhat toxic.

I don't know enough about this to say how practical it might be, could be totally outside of what could be done in a home workshop setting.

http://www2.dupont.com/Teflon_Industrial/en_US/products/prod...

[Edited on 2-2-2008 by not_important]
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[*] posted on 1-2-2008 at 21:02


The entire thing is made from 304 stainless, except for the two "U" bolt assemblies that make up the stand. I think the fitting is rated as being 150psi at room temp, who knows how it will perform under pressure and corrosive chemicals.

Total cost of the apparatus is about $80 including shipping. I already had several fittings for use on my moonshine still so it wasn't too bad. A replacement tee will set ya back about $20-25.

I really wanted one made out of 316 and a solid coupler, but those are about as common as frog hairs.




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[*] posted on 2-2-2008 at 12:19


This is the type of Teflon coating that will cure at home oven temps.

http://www2.dupont.com/Teflon_Industrial/en_US/products/sele...
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