htemptationtreats5
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HElP PLEASE! Heating Mantle trouble
I bought a heating mantle 120 volts with a temperature control but when i
plug it in, the fabric browns and hardens and the control wont work at lower temperature, Im sure my outlet is 120v. it keeps moving to higher and
higher temperature in order to turn on.(dials light up on higher temp setting only for some reason) Am i missing something?
MODEL: MS-E104 (Korean) 1000ml
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Texium
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Sounds to me like you got a crappy heating mantle.
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htemptationtreats5
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https://s32.postimg.org/5b0xua71x/20160703_195657.jpg : Heres a picture
https://s32.postimg.org/l0gllk8yt/20160703_181113.jpg
https://s32.postimg.org/scig2uhgl/20160703_181124.jpg
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htemptationtreats5
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Lol i thought that too. I complained about it and got another one free but the new one was like the first one, so either they sell really bad mantles
r im just missing something.
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Texium
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Well, are you turning it on with a flask in it, or just by itself? I think you can burn them out if you turn them on without actually heating
anything.
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htemptationtreats5
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With a flask. only turned it on one time, then it starts to show problems.
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coalminecanary
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Hello, what country are you from? Have you taken a probe and measured the output voltage of your mains?
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htemptationtreats5
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US, and no i haven't, thnx for the help. So i should measure my outlets voltage?
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coalminecanary
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Ehh... if you're in the US it's almost 100% certain that it's outputting 120V, unless someone pulled a prank on you, and added a transformer to your
outlet...
Unscrew the bottom (DON'T DO THIS IF YOU PLAN ON RETURNING IT/STILL HAS WARRANTY), and check if there's any visibly blown out components. If there is,
then it's a sign that the board has experienced currents higher than it was built for.
But yeah, if you have a multimeter, may aswell plug it in the mains outlet and check the voltage. Can't hurt... (unless you touch the electrodes, of
course.)
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htemptationtreats5
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Yeah im pretty sure no ones playing me XD. I have no experience in spotting damage in electronic circuits but from what i see there is nothing wrong.
https://s31.postimg.org/kschxz2gr/20160703_204025.jpg
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coalminecanary
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Do you have that photo in a size where I don't need a magnifying glass to see the board? ![;)](./images/smilies/wink.gif)
Also: may be a doublesided board, check the other side aswell.
[Edited on 4-7-2016 by coalminecanary]
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htemptationtreats5
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OK lol. im using my phone btw so the images blur a little.
https://s32.postimg.org/qlgkyq7dh/20160703_204054.jpg
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htemptationtreats5
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Its a one sided board the other side is flat (well flat enough)
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coalminecanary
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Only thing I can think of is a transformer shorting out... Get it replaced.
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htemptationtreats5
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I hope i dont sound too clueless but which is the transformer?
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htemptationtreats5
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Did you mean a variable transformer? that is all i could think of
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coalminecanary
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htemptationtreats5
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I see a lot of work and research in my future but until i fix this, good ole oil bath for now. thank you for taking the time to help.
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Sulaiman
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I suspect that in the photo,
above the transformer is a Triac (on the heatsink)
controlled by an opto-triac (the white 6-legged I.C.)
One or both may be short-circuit, applying power to the heating element continuously
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coalminecanary
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Quote: Originally posted by Sulaiman ![](images/xpblue/lastpost.gif) | I suspect that in the photo,
above the transformer is a Triac (on the heatsink)
controlled by an opto-triac (the white 6-legged I.C.)
One or both may be short-circuit, applying power to the heating element continuously |
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3RWe-EZ9UQ
You mean exactly like this?
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Sulaiman
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Precisely like that.
You can check for short circuits in-circuit with a multimeter,
get datasheets for triac and opto-triac to identify pinouts;
Triac gate-Anode1 is low resistance, Anode1-to-Anode2 usually Megohms.
The opto-triac A1-A2 (MT1-MT2) should also measure high resistance.
If either measures faulty it is safest to replace both.
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highpower48
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More for my own information. Who made this heating mandle? I only know of one manufacturer in the U.S. ( don't have the name in front of me) they are
reasonably priced I. The $75.00 range....
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coalminecanary
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Quote: Originally posted by highpower48 ![](images/xpblue/lastpost.gif) | More for my own information. Who made this heating mandle? I only know of one manufacturer in the U.S. ( don't have the name in front of me) they are
reasonably priced I. The $75.00 range.... |
source: Amazon
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Dr.Bob
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Most heating mantles are not meant to be used without a liquid to absorb the heat, especially high powered ones. In order to boil water, they much
generate a huge amount of heat, if there is nothing to absorb it, the mantle will melt. Heating mantles should ALWAYS be used with some form of
power regulation, either a variac or power controller (most are triac based time slice ones, but many types exist, just need to work). Some smaller
mantles need both lower voltage and power regulation, such as 25 ml ones that are only rated for 40 V. Look at the previous discussions on the topic
via the search engine. A light dimmer can work for most smaller mantles, just find one rated for enough amps.
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