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Author: Subject: condensers
Endimion17
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[*] posted on 6-7-2012 at 06:35


Well, air condensers do serve a purpose. They're used for condensing liquids with a boiling point above ~150 °C because Liebig condenser with flowing water jacket (10-20 °C water, depending on the season) might burst. Funny enough, Keck clips have the very same limit. :)

I'll try to test it like you said and report the results. One of the problems is that I don't have a variable heating equipment. I resort to water and oil baths, and constantly monitoring the temperature, turning the hotplate on and off. I can never leave a reflux alone, which sometimes means hours of sitting down. I might try to modify my hotplate but I really don't like messing with electrical equipment.




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watson.fawkes
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[*] posted on 6-7-2012 at 07:27


Quote: Originally posted by Endimion17  
Well, air condensers do serve a purpose. They're used for condensing liquids with a boiling point above ~150 °C because Liebig condenser with flowing water jacket (10-20 °C water, depending on the season) might burst.
[...]
I resort to water and oil baths, and constantly monitoring the temperature, turning the hotplate on and off. [...] I might try to modify my hotplate but I really don't like messing with electrical equipment.
In addition to air and water, there are other working fluids you can run through a condenser. The most obvious is automotive radiator fluid, called antifreeze but really "antiboil" to avoid vapor in the cooling loop, fully of ethylene and propylene glycol with higher boiling points. In general, you need to run such alternatives in a closed cycle, which means a radiator and a fluid pump. Such small radiators are available at the auto parts store as heater cores, small radiators used to transfer heat from the engine cooling loop to the passenger compartment. While this isn't a huge investment, it's not cheaper than seeing if air is an adequate working fluid for you.

Insofar as temperature regulation goes, there's a relatively easy electronics project to control heating mantles. It's a pulse-width modulation (PWM) for mains power. Heating doesn't require fast PWM; pulses on the order of seconds are just fine. And it will work for any heater. The circuit requires three semiconductors: a 555 timer chip, a ZC phototriac (zero crossing), and a power triac, you can make a PWM regulator for your mains power; total cost for these is less than 5 USD. Using a ZC phototriac driver gets rid of the bulk of line noise that you can hear in other triac circuits like lamp dimmers. The power triac can easily be rated at 15A or 20A, so it would work for any lab scale heater, or even the space heater in a garage. I've never seen this in a product, because most people need more sophisticated temperature control if they need any at all. And it doesn't regulate non-heater loads well. But it's just right for a lot of amateur science.
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[*] posted on 12-7-2014 at 20:23


Sorry to bump an old thread, but I felt like I might have a some useful information to add regarding unconventional condenser setups.

Since I don't have a water pump, I just set up a ring stand supporting an upside down milk jug ( with the bottom cut open) with ice water in it that flows into the condenser, and then a little spigot that pours into a bucket on the other side. You simply pour off the water occasionally, and it will refill itself. If you use enough ice, you can even reuse the water. I usually keep a plastic pitcher full of water in the freezer so I always have a nice block of ice to use and it doesn't waste any water. It takes a little while to set up, but it's worked very well for me!




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HgDinis25
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[*] posted on 6-4-2015 at 16:24


I'm sorry to bring up an old topic but I wanted to show you this:
https://hobbychemistry.wordpress.com/2015/04/03/types-of-con...

It is a general guide, made by me, discussing the most common types of condensers.
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Zombie
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[*] posted on 6-4-2015 at 17:36


Very nice article HgDinis25. I sort of focus on distillations, and I enjoyed the read.

Actually I am surprised there is not a "sticky" thread explaining most of the hardware available.

Thanks for sharing this.;)




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[*] posted on 6-4-2015 at 19:06


FYI:

Ryobi 120 VAC pump. At Home Depot, less than $18.00. 40 gallons/hour at a moderate but useful pressure- Sold as a universal replacement pump for wet tile saws, but we might have other applications.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Universal-Water-Pump-A113UWP/...




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[*] posted on 7-4-2015 at 04:37


Quote: Originally posted by Bert  
FYI:

Ryobi 120 VAC pump. At Home Depot, less than $18.00. 40 gallons/hour at a moderate but useful pressure- Sold as a universal replacement pump for wet tile saws, but we might have other applications.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Universal-Water-Pump-A113UWP/...


Bert, have you ever used or known someone to use this product? And how is it powered?

[Edited on 4-7-2015 by Amos]




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HgDinis25
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[*] posted on 7-4-2015 at 13:24


Quote: Originally posted by Zombie  
Very nice article HgDinis25. I sort of focus on distillations, and I enjoyed the read.

Actually I am surprised there is not a "sticky" thread explaining most of the hardware available.

Thanks for sharing this.;)


Thanks and I'm glad you enjoyed it! The sticky thing would be very interesting. Covering all range of glassware and apparatus would be quite interesting.
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Zombie
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[*] posted on 7-4-2015 at 14:26


Quote: Originally posted by Amos  
Quote: Originally posted by Bert  
FYI:

Ryobi 120 VAC pump. At Home Depot, less than $18.00. 40 gallons/hour at a moderate but useful pressure- Sold as a universal replacement pump for wet tile saws, but we might have other applications.

http://m.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-Universal-Water-Pump-A113UWP/...


Bert, have you ever used or known someone to use this product? And how is it powered?

[Edited on 4-7-2015 by Amos]



Amos,

120VAC wall power in the US




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[*] posted on 7-4-2015 at 14:33


For the Paranoid out there, not all of the walls in the US are permanently charged up with 120VAC.

It's OK to touch US walls, or rest objects against them.

Best use rubber boots, gloves and a shower cap if you're not sure.




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[*] posted on 7-4-2015 at 14:45


Quote: Originally posted by aga  
For the Paranoid out there, not all of the walls in the US are permanently charged up with 120VAC.

It's OK to touch US walls, or rest objects against them.

Best use rubber boots, gloves and a shower cap if you're not sure.



:D Mine are 120vac. I wired them myself :D

Rubber boots are a must...




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