T_FLeX
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Improvised Heating manlte
This Christmas I was determined to finish my glass distillation set up. I finally got the nerve and most importantly the money ( I have no Job) and
decided to go for it.
After looking around I found my options limited. They all seemed to cost way over 100 bucks and that was for one with no power controller. I ended up
buying a used junky looking one off eBay for very very cheap. Ended up costing 17 bucks shipped.
When it arrived I found out why it was so cheap, it had a very strange wall plug in, that no one at the hardware store had seen before, but I guess it
didn't matter anyway because I was planning on putting a incandescent light dimmer on it for power control.
I wasn't really sure if the dimmer would work on it, but because they only cost 6 bucks I figured what the hell, might as well give it a shot.
So I busted out the electrical tape, some wires and my handy dandy erector set and this is what I ended up with!
http://home.mchsi.com/~tflex101/mantle.htm
This thing works great, the controller works really remarkably well. I was distilling alcohol at a nice steady 174 degrees on the first run.
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guaguanco
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| Quote: | Originally posted by T_FLeX
When it arrived I found out why it was so cheap, it had a very strange wall plug in, that no one at the hardware store had seen before, but I guess it
didn't matter anyway because I was planning on putting a incandescent light dimmer on it for power control.
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My guess: the unusual plug isn't a wall plug, but is a plug to the (missing) power supply.
If it works, great! I'd inspect the dimmer *very* carefully for sparking potential. Most heating mantle setups go to great lengths to prevent
sparking. Last thing you need while distilling a liter of ethanol...
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Marvin
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What power rating is the mantle, and what the dimmer?
If the mantle is overrating the dimmer you may find out it lasts a while and then burns out.
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T_FLeX
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The heating mantle is only 210 Watts while the dimmer has a max of 600, so it should be able to handle it with no problem.
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Hermes_Trismegistus
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sweet....I am wondering....How is your little distilling receiver levitating in midair? (last pic, bottom right hand corner)
Arguing on the internet is like running in the special olympics; even if you win: you\'re still retarded.
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T_FLeX
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Well the piece of glass that I connected to the condenser is not actually supposed to be used there, its really another head, the part that goes
above the boiling flask, I just use it there so it will hold the receiving flask. Ground glass joints "stick" together pretty good.
I'll try to get more pics of my set up soon.
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Organikum
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welldone
But put the dimmer at least one meter away from the heating mantle and seal the electrics connection with hotglue before wrapping it with ducttape.
When it boils over - and it will - you dont want to electrify your whole setup and also if this doesnt happen you dont want to have to have to finger
through some boiling stuff to regulate the heat down. A simple switch where "on" and "off" is always clearly visible at first
sight before the dimmer may come handy - makes it much easier to check the status. This switch has to be one which cuts not only one line but both
lines if "off" ! Thats important, cheapo inline switches for incandesciant lights often just shut one line down what is dangerous in
applications like this.
Place the dimmer and switch somewhere it is safe from accidentially spilled liquids - somewhere higher for example and use hotglue on all electric
connections against condensates. Its easy to stay safe - and cheap.
Except this - welldone as I told.
Like it.
ORG
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Magpie
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mantle options
I am looking to buy a heating mantle(s). Most of my experimenting will be with 100 mL or 250 mL flasks but I will occasionally like to go up to 500
mL.
What I'm wondering about is whether it is better to buy a 500 mL Electrothermal type mantle with built in variable heat adjustment, or go with
Glascol type individual sized mantles (500, 250, 100 mL, etc) and heat them with a variable power supply (Variac).
What do forum members prefer and why? Thanks in advance for any help given.
The single most important condition for a successful synthesis is good mixing - Nicodem
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FrankRizzo
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The only advantages of using an Electrothermal mantle are that there is a rod clamp on the base for making it into a support stand, the thermoplastic
offers some insulation value for your lab surface, and the power supply is built-in conveniently (just a variac). If you can find a used
Electrothermal-type mantle for less than $75, just buy one of those for simplicity. Otherwise, you could easily put together a heating mantle for
~$50 ($10-$15 for a mantle and $30-40 for a good variac). They're both going to do the same job, but you'll most likely need a lab stand
for the homebrew option.
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Magpie
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stir bar through a Glascol?
I have never used the Glascol/Variac type of heating mantle as my school only had the Electrothermal type. In trying to make a decision on which way
to go a question came to mind: could a magnetic stir bar be driven through one of the smaller Glascols - say a 250 mL size. If this is possible it
would be an advantage for this route. An Electrothermal type with magnetic stirring sells new for around $1000, IIRC, so I won't be selecting
this option.
The single most important condition for a successful synthesis is good mixing - Nicodem
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Magpie
lab constructor
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bird's nest vs large conical mantle w/controller
I now have some experience with the bird's nest type (Glas-Col) heating mantles and must say I like them very much. They are tailored to the
size of your flask, are easier to move around, and you don't run the risk of overheating as much as when using a one-size-fits-all built-in
controller type (Electrothermal). My school has the solid-state type controllers which are small and lightweight. But I think a variac would work
just as well, it's just heavier and larger.
[Edited on 4-10-2004 by Magpie]
The single most important condition for a successful synthesis is good mixing - Nicodem
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