In the next video, I am planning to galvanize the same file to prevent it from rusting further.
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Rust is an iron oxide. The reaction of iron metal and oxygen in the presence of water or air moisture.
For the demonstration, I found an old file that was rusting for at least couple of years. This demonstration is not designed for the domestic use as
it involves a highly corrosive acid and corrosive fumes. However, this process is very efficient and widely used in industry.
For domestic rust removal, I would recommend soaking rusted objects in vinegar for 24 hours or using commercially available chemicals such as WD-40.
Thank you very much for watching my videos.
I will appreciate any advice on how to improve.
j_sum1 - 9-8-2016 at 16:41
Nicely prepared video. And remarkably effective process.
Concerning your next proposed step -- The problem with galvanising a file is that zinc is soft whereas your file is hard martensitic steel. Any
coating you apply will come off pretty quickly in use. The little that remains deep in the grooves of the file will have a sacrificial anode effect
and will still continue to protect the file a bit. But that same material will limit the effectiveness of the file.
Galvanising a file is not something that I would do -- except as a demo. Other tools, maybe.Ashot - 9-8-2016 at 16:47
Hi, thank you for a feedback I really appreciate it.
Yes, I have to agree with you regarding galvanization of file it is totally pointless.
However, this old file is the only rusted tool I could find and I will galvanize it only for demonstration. I believe it would be a good idea
explaining why I am galvanizing the file.
Thanks
[Edited on 10-8-2016 by Ashot]Maker - 10-8-2016 at 04:49
Allowing a files to rust, then cleaning them with acid is an effective sharpening method.Dank - 10-8-2016 at 13:13
Any idea how effective this would be for removing hydrated Fe2O3 from a glass frit? I've already tried soaking in hot HCl a few times and it's not
going anywhere..Ashot - 10-8-2016 at 14:19
Hi, try soaking it in oxalic acid for 24 hours. To be honest, I can't see why hydrochloric acid didn't work perhaps because this is not iron oxide? If
oxalic acid won't work try isopropanol. Dank - 10-8-2016 at 16:06
There was a small amount of Cr2O3 as well but this should react with HCl as well to form CrCl3 (which is soluble), no? I don't have any oxalic acid
on hand though so I'll give isopropanol a shot. I thought the sodium carbonate was placed on the tool to sort of "blast" the rust off, but correct me
if I'm wrong.diddi - 10-8-2016 at 18:23
I cannot imaging that the file would be sharp after having its edge burnt off. It would be ok for certain tools, but I will defer to using a wire
wheel to clean my files.Ashot - 11-8-2016 at 07:08
I cannot imaging that the file would be sharp after having its edge burnt off. It would be ok for certain tools, but I will defer to using a wire
wheel to clean my files.
yes, that is correct when sodium carbonate neutralizes in acid it creates allot of agitation as well as it is an exothermic reaction thus, in my
opinion, it speeds up the rust removal process.
however, using HCL only should also be efficient enough but you still need a basic solution to neutralize the acid on the tool.
I cannot imaging that the file would be sharp after having its edge burnt off. It would be ok for certain tools, but I will defer to using a wire
wheel to clean my files.
The first comment obviously was addressed to dank
In any case, I agree with you file is not the best tool for such a process but this is all I could find at home. diddi - 11-8-2016 at 17:16
yeh the chem is good, but the application you suggested is not ideal. I do woodwork and sometimes incorporate railway dogspikes in my work. I am
going to try it on some dogspikes where fine edge loss is irrelevant. Ashot - 12-8-2016 at 08:04
yeh the chem is good, but the application you suggested is not ideal. I do woodwork and sometimes incorporate railway dogspikes in my work. I am
going to try it on some dogspikes where fine edge loss is irrelevant.
I am really curious how efficient it would be on dogspikes. Will you galvanize them after the process?
Would be nice to hear about your results.
diddi - 13-8-2016 at 06:16
I use polyurethane clear coat over the top, or 2-pack depending in the piece I am doing. galvanising looks shitty and is prone to wear and then rust
later on. I will have a try when I am doing another project
