I've written a lot about practical clandestine enolate chemistry, but there's always been a bit of a sticking point in much of my discussion. How does
one practically make enolates at home? Enolate chemistry often requires *strong* bases, ones that mere WATER is far to acidic to have in its presence
(pKa>15), so what's a bee to do?
Alkoxides.
By mixing sodium metal with an anhydrous alcohol, the sodium with strip off the hydroxy's relatively acidic proton, making an alkoxide -- a base of
great strength and usefullness in making enolates at home. Just to give you an idea regarding their acidity, NaOH has a pKa of about 14, NaOMe has a
pKa of 15, NaOEt's is around 26, and NaOiPr around 28-30 (all of this is measured in DMSO, and the numbers kinda vary from source to source.) Here's
how.
Now its important that everything be absolutely anhydrous, and some saferty precautions should be taken. The alcohol must be 99+% pure, the glassware
should be flame-dried. Good ventilation is needed, since the reaction generates hydrogen gas, and having a build-up of that can lead to Hindenburgian
results. With that said, let's get cookin'!
In a 250-mL RB flask equipt with a reflux column and a magnetic stirrer, nestled in an ice bath, 25 mL of acohol (MeOH, EtOH, iPrOH) is allowed to
chill with stirring. Once the alcohol is good and chilled, 1.32 grams of cleaned sodium metal is carefully added, and a tube full of dried CaCl2 to
placed on the outlet of the relux column. Immediately, the reaction begins to take place, and a lot of heat and hydrogen are generated. THe solution
will begin to boil as the sodium dissolves, and eventually, when all the melodrama of the disolving is over, replace the icebath with a hot water
bath, and reflux an additional 15 minutes. From there, evaporate off the excess alcohol, yielding the final product (around 3.5 grams.)
Scaling up requires a little extra finess. When using EtOH or iPrOH, chilling the alcohol first in an acetone/dry ice bath, then gradually allowing
the solution to come to room temperature will allow you to add the sodium metal without too many fireworks. Always keep ventilation a top priority.
The final product will be white-yellow (with ethoxide, its very yellow), and decomposes with too much exposure to air. So, once you have a nice,
off-white mass of crap, keep it tightly sealed right up until you need to measure it. |