Quote: Originally posted by DJF90 | Finally someone can see exactly what I'm saying! Its idiots like pHzero that got decent chemistry sets removed from the shops. Now they're full of
crap "chemicals" and not even glassware last I heard... plastic test tubes.. fancy that! |
Should we really bash a starting newcomer this way? I agree with all the people, who tell that you must take safety measures and if you use KOH of
high concentration then it is wise to use goggles. But now everyone is falling over the other screaming how irresponsible pHzero has been and that is
not good at all for home chemistry neither. Who of us has not done unwise things when you were 15 or so ? So, one remark is enough and then things are said. In this way we are not better than those "politically correct"
people who are despised by so many of us.
So, the point is made now and let's go on about the chemistry of this interesting subject. Because of the stoppering with the thumb, I can imagine
that material from the skin served as reductor and allowed some of the ferricyanide to be converted to ferrocyanide.
So, this experiment must be repeated in a clean test tube, with both chemicals dissolved separately with careful swirling (and no shaking) and then
mixing the two solutions and keeping them in a dark place.
Btw, potassium ferricyanide decomposes in aqueous solution anyway, even a plain water solution decomposes, especially in the presence of light. Bright
sunlight causes decomposition in minutes.
The mechanism behind this is that Fe(III) easily is activated by light and then can give off an electron. This is the basis for iron-based photography
(cyanotype, old noble process). Just for fun, mix some ferricyanide, some iron(III) salt (without base added) and keep in the light. The solution
turns blue soon. The cyanotype process exploits this by using a solution of ferric oxalate or ferric citrate and mix this with a solution of potassium
ferricyanide and absorbing this in paper. Parts exposed to light become blue, other parts are not colored. Washing in very dilute acid (almost just
water) then removes the unreacted iron(III) salts while the insoluble prussian blue sticks to the fibers of the paper.
For the above reason, it is best to store ferricyanides in a dark place and only as a solid. Ferrocyanides are much more stable and can also be kept
in a light place. Iron(II) salts, like ferrosulfate even can best be stored in a bright place, preferrably in bright sunlight. This increases shelf
life considerably, because any oxidized iron (to +3) is more easily reverted to its +2 state by the light. |