Detonationology
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Bought some lab stuff...now what
I purchased a Fisher Scientific Conserv-Air fume hood off of Craigslist for damn good price. It is in decent condition for it age (I assume about 20
y/o). It came in 3 sections: the cabinet, the hood, and the piece where the blower goes. It did not come with a blower, but I have one from a
furnace that should work fine. The wiring within the cabinet makes me think it requires 220-240 line voltage; however, I am struggling to find any
info whatsoever on the company website nor anywhere else. I've watched a video on youtube of a unboxing and assembly of a fume hood with a different
brand name, but it did not answer many of my questions. I got 10 foot ceilings, so no problem there. Can anybody shed some light on how to install
one of these big ass things?
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Oscilllator
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I feel like some pictures are in order.
Do you have a hole in your room where you plan to vent the gasses? Or are you just going to vent them out the window?
Surely the wiring in the cabinet just operates the blower, though. If that's the case then you should just be able to use the specs of the furnace
blower you have to determine what wires etc to use.
I'm also no sure is using a furnace blower is a good idea - what flow rate is it capable of? Is it corrosion resistant? Even if it is, I still
wouldn't install it and expect to be able to use it later for something else, especially if it's had Cl2 or NOx run through it.
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Detonationology
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How do I post pics? I see where it says "type URL" but how do I insert if its on my computer?
EDIT: face palm, I'm a dumbass
[Edited on 10-15-2015 by Detonationology]
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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fumehood pics
fumehood pics
[Edited on 10-15-2015 by Detonationology]
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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fumehood pics
fumehood pics
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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fumehood pics
I saved the best for last
[Edited on 10-15-2015 by Detonationology]
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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fumehood pics
fumehood pics
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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The sash cable is tangled, and off of the pully. The cold water valve is stuck fast, maybe a little WD-40 will free it up. The gauge labeled
"Magnehelic" works and responds to negative pressure. The light fixture has a 150 watt lightbulb. I can provide more info or pictures if it will
help in the assembly. What about the drain; do I just run a piece of pipe to it, or just put a 5 gallon bucket under the cabinet?
[Edited on 10-15-2015 by Detonationology]
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Magpie
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As I understand this you have 3 components: (1) a base cabinet, (2) the hood enclosure, and (3) a support base for the blower (fan).
I can't see the some of the details because of inadequate lighting. Can you provide more lighting or use a flash?
I'm having trouble understanding the blower mounting component. How does it attach to the hood? What is the outlet diameter? Could you give a
better picture here?
What duct diameter and length will you use? What is your anticipated airflow? What will be your face velocity?
I assume the airflow will be constant regardless of sash position (this is good). Is this true?
The single most important condition for a successful synthesis is good mixing - Nicodem
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Detonationology
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I'll take care of that when I get home in a few hours. I'll get more detailed pictures of the light fixture, where the blower meets the hood, the
sash and cables. Anything else you can think of that would help? I'll also get some specs on the duct dimensions and the furnace blower.
[Edited on 10-15-2015 by Detonationology]
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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The fixture is made by Underwriters' Laboratories Inc. I am not quite sure why it appears that A-23 is written twice, same voltage of 250, but
different max. wattage.
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Detonationology
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The first pic is the cabinet w/ countertop removed.
The second pic is the junction where the fume hood (left) meets the top piece (right) that contains the blower.
The third pic is looking up the side of the fume hood section at the cold water valve.
And the third pic is one that makes me cringe: the tangled sash cable. It's gonna be a bitch to get it to rest on the pulley just right oh well, might end up replacing the cables.
[Edited on 10-15-2015 by Detonationology]
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Magpie
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I'm sorry but I cannot see your components well enougth to make any further comments at this time. I definitely would get new cables, however.
The single most important condition for a successful synthesis is good mixing - Nicodem
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Detonationology
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I think I fixed the sash cables for now; I stretched the kinks out and it opens a d closes fine. I wasn't expecting to find this, but I guess I
shouldn't be too surprised.
[Edited on 10-16-2015 by Detonationology]
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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Deathunter88
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Quote: Originally posted by Detonationology | I think I fixed the sash cables for now; I stretched the kinks out and it opens a d closes fine. I wasn't expecting to find this, but I guess I
shouldn't be too surprised.
[Edited on 10-16-2015 by Detonationology] |
You should get rid of that asbestos board. NOW! Asbestosis is not something you want to get. (I recently threw away all of my wire gauze when I found
out they contained asbestos.) Rather have a beaker break from thermal shock then to get lung cancer.
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Detonationology
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I am well aware the dangers that exist when working in an environment with asbestos fibers. It isn't carelessness that I am not too concerned, I just
do not think that it poses a threat in its current condition. The boards inside the fume hood are all intact and were not damaged in transport. From
my research, asbestos is only hazardous when the material is damaged, creating asbestos microfibers. Call me stupid or persistent, but at least I'm
not making Phosgene
“There are no differences but differences of degree between different degrees of difference and no difference.” ― William James
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zed
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I strongly suggest that you do not eat that asbestos, or snort cocaine off of it.
Paint it if you must.
Asbestos isn't a good thing, but it is the guys that cut that asbestos liner, and installed it, that face most of the danger. Heavy exposure equals
real danger.
And, Asbestos exposure, if significant, might kill a guy eventually, But many of the chemicals that the hood will protect you against, could croak
you instantly.
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