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Tungsten.Chromium
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Clamps & Stands
Howdy everyone!
The current stands and clamps I have were given to me from a friend that works at a university and while I was grateful for the free gear, they're all
about rusted to the point of being unusable (ie. the screws on the clamp are stuck and WD40 isn't working). I've tried soaking them in a CLR/alcohol
bath overnight followed by a wire brush scrubbing, but it didn't do much.
I do have one clamp that another friend gave me that looks just like this that I love,
Only problem is that they're 17 dollars a piece.
My stands do their job, but I would like to get one solid piece instead of rearranging two. I saw one that looked similar to this at a university
once, but with a wooden base that held the two "masts" in place securely
Can anyone recommend a vendor that sells these and other pieces of lab hardware at fair price or am I just dreaming of a fantasy world?
Prosit!
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Praxichys
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I bought this:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/THREE-PRONG-CONDENSER-CLAMP-WITH-BOS...
The guy was super nice gave me an extra clamp and bosshead. The clamps are really nice, chrome plated and such, definitely worth $14 each with the
bosshead. I've been using them for over a year and they are not nearly as crusty as my cheap ones.
When you get new clamps, try putting some joint grease in the threads and working them back and forth. It will prevent a lot of corrosive things from
attacking the threads and locking them up over time.
I built my stands right into the table. I have pieces of 1/2" galvanized electrical conduit secured to the table with pipe flanges. Each vertical rod
assembly was like $3. You can do the same with 1/4" iron gas pipe, 1/2" copper, or a similar sized threaded rod. My old lab had 1/2" threaded rod
coming through holes in the table, secured to the table with washers and nuts. Very easy and very low cost.
[Edited on 9-9-2015 by Praxichys]
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Tungsten.Chromium
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Thanks for the recommendation on the clamps, and the fact they come in a pack of 5 is great! Hope he gives me an extra one too lol. I'd never
considered greasing them before-hand, but will give it a try when I get them. Btw is plain old vaseline okay to use as joint grease or do I need to
buy some fancy chemistry specific stuff?
That table is impressive to say the least, but as a chemistry student living at home with mom and dad, I doubt they'll let me build something like
that into the garage, its packed full of junk already. Maybe a similar design except on a small cart like table with wheels, but then you run the
risk of it slipping/sliding in the middle of something and chemicals shaking/flying.
I'm starting to think that piece I saw in school lab was a custom piece that I'll need to make myself.
Prosit!
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Praxichys
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Vaseline will be better than nothing, but keep in mind that if the clamp gets warm, the vaseline will melt and drip. Also try to keep the vaseline
away from the rubberized jaws of the clamps or it may soften the rubber into goop over time. If you have white lithium grease or brake caliper bolt
lube (cheap at the auto store in little green packets) those will both perform better at higher temperatures for the threaded parts. Even vaseline is
better than no protection though.
Don't worry about screwing them to the table like I did. Just find a block of wood or something else to use as a base. Make sure to add weight to the
base so it doesn't tip over. A sandwich bag full of sand would make a good cheap weight. If you are near a Home Depot, ask the guy running the panel
saw for some plywood scraps, and have him cut them into 6x8-inch pieces for you. In my experience they have only charged me for the cuts, which was a
few dollars. You can use cheap bolts or short wood screws to secure the rods to the base. If you say it's for a school project, I bet they would do it
for free.
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Dr.Bob
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I have some 1/2" rod and lattice work connectors left. If you know about what size lattice you want to build, I can provide enough to build it.
The rod I sell for about $1 per foot, and the connectors for $3-5 ea depending on how nice you want, and which style. There are many types of
connectors, but I have a few types. The shipping is not bad (within the US) as long as they are under 3-4 feet long per rod.
I also have some large 3 prong clamps left for $12 (used, but good), out of medium, which is the most popular size, might have a few small ones ($10)
also, but not many. They sell for an insane price on Fisher, but some cheaper ones are available, as posted, but some are really crap, so I would
buy a sample before getting a bunch, as I have bough junk ones before, and they are useless.
[Edited on 9-9-2015 by Dr.Bob]
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aga
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Anyone wanting support rods on a small scale can use something like a trolley and readily available threaded bar in various sizes (all hardware stores
have these).
They also have nuts and washers that fit them.
Simply drill some holes in the trolley surface and nut-n-bolt the bar in place vertically.
Personally i use a welded up bit of iron girder for larger rig-ups and a smaller two-rod assembly with a heavy weight on top for rigs that have to fit
in my tiny fume hood.
The stuck rusty clamps can probably be freed up using a blowtorch and some pliers (so you don't get singed), and made useful for longer with grease
instead of WD40.
WD40 isn't really supposed to be a lubricant, more of a water dispersant.
[Edited on 9-9-2015 by aga]
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CharlieA
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Would chilling the stuck clamps work better than heating them? My thought is that "shrinking" the components a little by cooling them, will make it
easier to separate them with the pliers (or a BFH).
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ave369
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Try de-rusting your clamps with weak hydrochloric acid, then, when they regain mobility, immediately phosphoric acid to cover them with a phosphate
passivating layer.
Smells like ammonia....
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Bert
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Mood: " I think we are all going to die. I think that love is an illusion. We are flawed, my darling".
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This gets stuck threads free- It really does what people THINK WD40 does. And doesn't leave behind the hard waxy crap that WD40 does.
https://websecure.cnchost.com/kanolabs.com/orders/order_kroi...
*offer of 1 free can- They will send you a letter about a month later, asking if you liked it, want more? I wanted more...
This stuff protects metal and doesn't dammage plastic, drip when hot & etc.
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-a...
Or- Just get a can of Johnson's paste wax, wax all your metal bits. A bit slower than spraying on Boeshield, but a can of wax lasts FOREVER, can also
be used for cast bullet lubrication, mould release, many other things. I will wax all the parts of a gun below the wood of the stock, won't be rusty
next time I get caught in the rain while hunting.
Rapopart’s Rules for critical commentary:
1. Attempt to re-express your target’s position so clearly, vividly and fairly that your target says: “Thanks, I wish I’d thought of putting it
that way.”
2. List any points of agreement (especially if they are not matters of general or widespread agreement).
3. Mention anything you have learned from your target.
4. Only then are you permitted to say so much as a word of rebuttal or criticism.
Anatol Rapoport was a Russian-born American mathematical psychologist (1911-2007).
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Little_Ghost_again
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Try electrolysis  use sodium carbonate as the electrolyte and a sacrificial bit of
iron for the Anode (or do I mean cathode??? brain fade moment), Ive cleaned up load of really rusty pliers and that I got from a car boot sale cheap.
They cam up great and at 1.5A it didnt take long and moved freely pretty quickly. I used washing soda but I thinks sodium carbonate
Dont ask me, I only know enough to be dangerous
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Little_Ghost_again
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In the uk these people are cheap http://www.betterequipped.co.uk/retort-clamps-pack-of-10-prd...
They only sell chemicals to schools but everything else you can buy as a person, they also do Boss heads fairly cheap
Dont ask me, I only know enough to be dangerous
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j_sum1
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That's a great price! Even including international shipping that would come in at lower than other clamps I have bought. Almost a shame that I don't
need any at the moment.
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beaker man
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Quote: Originally posted by j_sum1  | | That's a great price! Even including international shipping that would come in at lower than other clamps I have bought. Almost a shame that I don't
need any at the moment. |
my price is better than this, welcome to compare !
www.uplabware.com
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Little_Ghost_again
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Geat so how much exactly are you going to charge me for 10? I am getting free shipping by the way. I live in the Uk and couldnt be bothered to work
out CAN$. As a buyer I am lazy
Dont ask me, I only know enough to be dangerous
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Tungsten.Chromium
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22 euros for a pack of TEN? Thats amazing to say the least! Even with international shipping to the US I'd bet its still under 6-8 dollars a piece.
Either I'm missing something or this is where we need to start getting out clamps from
Prosit!
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Little_Ghost_again
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I have some ordered so will let you know what they are like, They normally supplie schools but have opened some things up to others, anything with a
CAS number is delivered to a school address only.
Ok it might be a catch! I think there is 20% tax on top  but even so still a good
price
[Edited on 10-9-2015 by Little_Ghost_again]
Dont ask me, I only know enough to be dangerous
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Camroc37
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If you can weld, that is the cheapest way to go now that I think about it.
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Tungsten.Chromium
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I tried welding a few times at a friends house and ended up with two pieces of square steel tubing awkwardly joined together with a giant blob around
the spot where they met, so I'm gonna stray away from that lol. Not to mention welding with aluminum is a bit tricky from what I hear.
I'm planning on going with a 3' tall x 2' wide lattice with 4 vertical masts and 2 horizontal crossbeams attached to a wooden base. Its still in the
draft phase, but I'll post pictures once completed
As for the clamps, the link that little_ghost_again posted is still by far the best price I've seen.
Prosit!
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greenlight
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Just took two of my clamps and stands that are so rusted that the jaws can't even be opened at all anymore to a friends house for him to try and get
them fixed.
We used water dispersant to loosen them so the jaws could be opened and then a drill with a copper wire brush attachment as pictured was used.
From the before and after photos you can see it works quite well and I recommend buying one of these brush attachments as it strips the rust right off
easily.
Now I just have to find something to coat them in to stop it happening so easily again.
[Edited on 12-9-2015 by greenlight]
  
Be good, otherwise be good at it 
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Little_Ghost_again
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Electrolysis with washing soda also works well for badly rusted things
Dont ask me, I only know enough to be dangerous
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greenlight
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What electrode material do you use for electrolysis to remove rust?
Another before and after shot of the screws that were also corroded after using the wire brush drill attachment on them:
[Edited on 13-9-2015 by greenlight]
[Edited on 13-9-2015 by greenlight]
[Edited on 13-9-2015 by greenlight]
Be good, otherwise be good at it
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Little_Ghost_again
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I use cheapo rebar like is used for reinforced concrete, but I have also used a old spanner and a chunk of rusty unidentified metal that was magnetic.
Works a treat and seems to leave a dull dark grey coating thats pretty good at keeping rust off for a bit, dont go mad with voltage and Amps. I use a
old car battery charge and set the electrodes so they pull around 1.5 - 2A. Washing soda is dead cheap as well.
To be fair those wernt really bad or stuck hard, but they came up really nice, I use the electrolysis for things that are rusted tight and I cant get
moving
[Edited on 13-9-2015 by Little_Ghost_again]
Dont ask me, I only know enough to be dangerous
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Upsilon
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I build my own stands; it's so much cheaper than buying them. Get a block of plywood, drill a large hole, and stick a length of thick PVC pipe in
there and you're good to go. I do buy my clamps though because those are considerably more difficult to make.
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Tungsten.Chromium
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Danm greenlight, those second before and after pics look look amazing, I'll have to get one of those little drill attachments. I noticed mine started
to look a little like that after rubbing with the wire brush for half an hour, but it would have taken hours of rubbing to get them nice and shiny
like those, hence, the drill does hours of work in seconds I suppose.
Prosit!
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The Volatile Chemist
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Praxichys, very fine set-up. The sink hook-up is cool, too.
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