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draculic acid69
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Horseheads can also be made out of timber. A 1"x1"x2" block of pine with 12mm holes drilled for vertical and horizontal poles with a few 4mm holes for
screws to tighten things in place works for lighter things. I wouldn't use it for a 1L full of water but smaller things are fine
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Rainwater
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You may find this post processing analysis useful
https://youtu.be/DyAKtS1b3SQ
"You can't do that" - challenge accepted
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arkoma
Redneck Overlord
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So far, the handiest things I've been printing are funnels, ones that fits a 24/40 taper and perforated plates for filtration. In my mobile, so i will
edit in some pics later.
"We believe the knowledge and cultural heritage of mankind should be accessible to all people around the world, regardless of their wealth, social
status, nationality, citizenship, etc" z-lib
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scitiana
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in my search for a affordable catalyst i stumbled across this
has anyone here got experience working with thse? cus it seems to me that this would be a relatively cheap catalyst for a ostwald reactor
throwing science at the wall and seeing what sticks
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ave369
Eastern European Lady of Mad Science
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Today I've made a Bunsen burner. I bought a cheap Chinese made propane-butane burner for camping stove cartridges, and cut the burner in two. The
cartridge adapter with valve became part 1, the cylinder valve for my makeshift gas line; the burner head itself, attached to an improvised round
stand, became the Bunsen burner.
The two parts are connected by a gas line that is made from a silicone tube. The silicone is chemical resistant and survives heating to 250 C.
I had to craft this because the cartridge with the original burner installed was far too tall for any of my clamps and retort stands.
[Edited on 27-3-2023 by ave369]
Smells like ammonia....
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Gammatron
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Fumehood Vacuum System
The file size of my pictures was too big to post more than 1 but I wrote about it on my blog. Very easy to build system capable of vacuum distillation
on corrosive substances.
https://gammatronscience.wordpress.com/2023/03/27/vacuum-sys...
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Rainwater
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Looks better and cleaner than mine. How loud is it?
"You can't do that" - challenge accepted
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Gammatron
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Not loud at all with the little mufflers on the exhaust. I was expecting it to be pretty noisy being on top of my FH but it's quite nice.
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Rainwater
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PS. CaSO4 is a ;>/"& to clean. This may be a cleaner alternative, does require filtering the gas stream
http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=159094...
"You can't do that" - challenge accepted
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Gammatron
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Nice write up! I did a smaller scale reaction yesterday and luckily the CaSO4 broke up with a little shaking. I may have to use a metal rod to break
up the pieces in this run but I work at a plant with an ammonia chiller system and I found a place where I can bleed some off into a bottle of water.
Boom! Free NH4OH of the highest concentration I can make. I dont need anhydrous, just a more concentrated solution than what is available at the
store.
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Organikum
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Quote: Originally posted by earpain  |
.......
And then, the Monstrosity
........
Once that is finished, i simply slide a 500ml RBF on that bottom receiver elbow piece, connect my vacuum source to the special straight vacuum adapter
which is slowly rendering vacuum angled take-off's obsolete.
Then i proceed with a Vacuum Fractional Distillation
In such a way where it is most ideal to use <100ML flasks as the stillpot, but crucial to use serious BIG BOY glassware to condense and collect.
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You still have to change receiver flasks between fractions and for this to disconnect the vacuum? Also it would seem to me that you will have quite
some distillate collecting in the vacuum adapter not able to run down into the collecting flask, thats somewhat beating the purpose isn't it? I would
have thought for 100 ml boiling flasks the shortway thing on top of the small flask would completely suffice. Looks grandiose though, no doubt on
this!
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Texium
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Mood: PhD candidate!
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| Quote: Originally posted by earpain | Now that DCM is gone, I've been plagued by the tediousness AND the mechanical yield loss off having aq. layers 10 or more times the volume of my
compound. And all the organic non-polar solvents still sold to the public either boil at WAY TOO HOT degrees celsius, or just suck in general because
they hide water or they dont really dissolve stuff(naphtha).
OR I have to make them from scratch! diethyl ether, chloroform, this isn't over! |
Two words: ethyl acetate.
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Morgan
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I repurposed my old 35 mm photo lab film developing tank by placing a piece of steel wool inside it and then putting the lid back on. To that I
attached a dust collector/bellows that fits over a drill bit to catch sawdust or whatever when drilling into walls or ceilings. Then just a magnet to
hold it down. It's strangely simple but really gets going when blasted with a second torch. It seemed a lot of mass to be slinging back and forth,
uncertain if the silicone bellows would hold up.
https://youtu.be/rBeaZNxOQYc
https://youtu.be/WXUVMTi8cZU
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j_sum1
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Broken frit funnel and an evaporating dish makes a good gas bubbler. Here I am concentrating some HCl.
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arkoma
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Sum broken gear in sum lab. Pun intended. Must be a coarse frit though.
"We believe the knowledge and cultural heritage of mankind should be accessible to all people around the world, regardless of their wealth, social
status, nationality, citizenship, etc" z-lib
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Organikum
resurrected
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Magnet stirrer broke needed a quick replacement.
Motor is from a battery lawn trimmer - complete overkill but due to its mass it needs no big balancing. Magnets are Sm/Co - I had too many Neodyms
dying already.
Not shown is the lab-power supply I use now, I will later use a 14V PS and a 5 buck speed controller (PWM). It pulls now in the worst case 1,5 Watt.
Changes I would make now: Magnets a bit more apart like 5 mm.
It is perfect and powerful with RBFs and eggs.
  
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Mateo_swe
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Anyone of you are using the replacement heating mantle sleeves?
Like the one in Organikum´s post above, the picture to the right.
I have a few of those in different sizes but i want to put it into something to easier keep the shape around the flask when using them.
I been thinking I maybe put the mantle sleeve in a clay flowerpot with some vermiculite inside.
Vermiculite can handle the high temps and are a good insulator for heat.
That might help to keep the shape of the sleeve around flask and allow for it to be placed upon a hotplate stirrer (for the stirring function).
If you use these, do you use as they are (as in the pic above) or have you made some support thingy for them?
And if you haven't seen these before, they are a cheap alternative for a heating mantle (find in auction sites) but you need a variac to drive them or
buy a dimmer type driver.
Just be careful not to electrocute yourself, one should at least know a bit about electrical safety when messing with mains voltage and currents.
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Sulaiman
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Coffee cup warmer for evaporation.
I've recently been evaporating dilute nitric acid solutions to recover solid residues,
I've found this coffee cup warmer to be very useful,
It maintains a temperature of about 85C and can be left on for as many hours as desired.
I've left it on overnight several times.
(outdoors; a covered, ventilated, tiled area - no hazards)
I think that coffee cup warmers have been mentioned before,
but I found it so useful that I've mentioned it here again.
Also useful for recrysalisations.
I wonder if a diy mag stirrer would work through one......
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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jackchem2001
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It is common to use aluminium foil to create an insulating layer of air around a boiling flask. If the foil is in direct contact with the flask, this
is obviously no good for producing an insulating layer. Even worse, however, is that I suspect this introduces the potential for cracking when cooling
the flask. One of my boiling flasks developed a large star crack on its side where contact between foil and flask had been made.
Here is somebody who has had a similar experience:
https://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=18619...
I don't think this really belongs in this thread but I don't see one that really suits it better.
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yobbo II
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https://leclair.vision/
This stuff (IMO) would be great for high temp. experiments.
Not too expensive.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225983222952?_nkw=teflon+bowl&...
Visions is a brand of innovative glass-ceramic cookware originally created by Corning France. Released in Europe during the late 1970s and early
1980's, it was officially introduced in the United States during the latter-half of 1983 and became the number one selling cookware set for a number
of years.
Notable for its transparency, it is commonly seen in an amber or cranberry tint. Some model lines feature painted decoration, sculptured bodies, and
SilverStone non-stick coating. A white variant was sold in some regions as "White Visions".
Visions is made of a material belonging to the Pyroceram family of vitroceramics (glass-ceramics). It features thermal characteristics similar to
Corning Ware, plus improved resistance to staining and the detrimental effects of acids and detergents.
It will withstand heat up to 850°C (1,560+ °F) and is safe for use on a gas or electric stovetop range as well as in the oven, under the broiler,
and with a microwave.
Additionally, due to it's ability to survive sudden temperature changes of up to 450C, it can used for food storage in refrigerator or freezer and be
taken directly to stove and then table or sink without worry of shattering. It's also great for combination cooking. One piece of Visions can do the
work that would typically require numerous pieces of more conventional kitchenware.
Can it be drilled to attach tubes to?
It is similar to the stuff 'glass toped' electric cookers are made from.
Yob
[Edited on 11-9-2024 by yobbo II]
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Morgan
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| Quote: Originally posted by yobbo II |
https://leclair.vision/
This stuff (IMO) would be great for high temp. experiments.
Not too expensive.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225983222952?_nkw=teflon+bowl&...
Visions is a brand of innovative glass-ceramic cookware originally created by Corning France. Released in Europe during the late 1970s and early
1980's, it was officially introduced in the United States during the latter-half of 1983 and became the number one selling cookware set for a number
of years.
Notable for its transparency, it is commonly seen in an amber or cranberry tint. Some model lines feature painted decoration, sculptured bodies, and
SilverStone non-stick coating. A white variant was sold in some regions as "White Visions".
Visions is made of a material belonging to the Pyroceram family of vitroceramics (glass-ceramics). It features thermal characteristics similar to
Corning Ware, plus improved resistance to staining and the detrimental effects of acids and detergents.
It will withstand heat up to 850°C (1,560+ °F) and is safe for use on a gas or electric stovetop range as well as in the oven, under the broiler,
and with a microwave.
Additionally, due to it's ability to survive sudden temperature changes of up to 450C, it can used for food storage in refrigerator or freezer and be
taken directly to stove and then table or sink without worry of shattering. It's also great for combination cooking. One piece of Visions can do the
work that would typically require numerous pieces of more conventional kitchenware.
Can it be drilled to attach tubes to?
It is similar to the stuff 'glass toped' electric cookers are made from.
Yob
The lids are usually Pyrex and the casserole dishes and pots should have molded on the bottom the words - Oven, Microwave, Rangetop, Freezer. Some
don't say Rangetop and are all Pyrex like the plates and some cookware. I saw a Corning Visions cranberry platter that didn't have Rangetop printed on
it but instead Microwave, "Oven & Broiler", Freezer which would also probably be acceptable high temp material.
I happened to hear the word Pyroceram in the 9 minute region of this video when mentioning nose cones.
US Tests Its Monstrously Powerful Laser Carrier To Beat Hypersonic Missiles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pmN23S8GmWk
I found them useful for this jumper experiment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjXxg3I5Zas
[Edited on 13-9-2024 by Morgan] |
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yobbo II
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I could make a rude comment about that jumper...
Spill some water on the top (the bottom actually) of that dish and you will see the meissner effect.
Yob
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Morgan
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Some fun facts about Pyroceram
https://www.woodstove-fireplaceglass.com/pages/pyroceram-gla...
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Sulaiman
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| Quote: Originally posted by jackchem2001 | | ...If the foil is in direct contact with the flask, this is obviously no good for producing an insulating layer. Even worse, however, is that I
suspect this introduces the potential for cracking when cooling the flask... |
I gently crumple my foil then
open it up before loosely wrapping it around an rbf,column etc.
This provides better insulation due to less foil-glass contact area and the formation of trapped air pockets.
and good chance of reusing the foil many times.
Wrap so that you can open a little when hot - to inspect progress.
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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Sulaiman
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| Quote: Originally posted by Mateo_swe | | ...If you use these, do you use as they are (as in the pic above) or have you made some support thingy for them?. |
I used a cake tin as an enclosure
https://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=71664
I used some aluminium sheet with a similar sized hole underneath the top to clamp the mantle,
So the mantle only needs to be gripped around the top circumference.
PS my heating element baskets went very stiff after a few uses so if possible use a new liner/basket/element for your new heating mantle..
Inspiration from nux vomica https://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=67866...
[Edited on 13-9-2024 by Sulaiman]
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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