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plante1999
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There is no strong smell, and I know why pyro's catched fire. The red phosphorus he send is very pure, probably more than lab reagent grade. It is not
stabilized, stabilized phosphorus is somewhat crystalline, and contain small percentage of alkali earth chloride and organic compound, generally 2%
Mine is a very fine flowing powder which leave no residue whatsoever on distillation. I guess it is phosphorus from intermediate step in the plant.
I never asked for this.
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Pyro
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I just got a pair of L milspec. butyl gloves. 14mil
I kind of paid too much, $32,95 shipping included, but now I have something better than cheap disposables that always tear.
Tomorrow I am going to get some cotton gloves to wear inside them
does anybody else use these? from my (very short) experience it feels like cotton liners are needed. comments?
all above information is intellectual property of Pyro.  |
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Bot0nist
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Mood: Streching my cotyledons.
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I use them at work, as they are much more resistant to ketones and solvents (M.E.K. in particular). They hold up good to most anything, including
tears and punctures. Cotton underneath would make them much less sticky and wet from sweat after use, and would probably make them more comfertable. I
really only use them when im literaly dipping things into solvent with my hands though. They seem a bit bulky for daily use in my home. I use
disposable nitriles in the lab for the convenience and dexterity vs. the thicker, more resistant gloves.
U.T.F.S.E. and learn the joys of autodidacticism!
Don't judge each day only by the harvest you reap, but also by the seeds you sow.
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mr.crow
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Wow, the wait must have been excruciating. Customs would not be happy with that 
Congrats on the awesome element though!
Double, double toil and trouble; Fire burn, and caldron bubble
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Pyro
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good, I did choose butyl for its compatibility with what I generally do.
http://www.customadvanced.com/chemical-resistance-chart.html
off to the art shop tomorrow after school for cotton liners, I thought I might need liners, so to test I wore them for about five mins, by then they
were already getting kind of slippery from sweat! I like the fact that they reach up your forearms, I tend to get stuff there, so now they protect
them.
do you clean them daily? if so, how? soap and water?
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Bot0nist
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Mood: Streching my cotyledons.
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Soap and warm water seem to suffice. Sometimes the very solvent I am using them to protect me from if I need to remove the adhesive or paint from
them. Might need to pick a cleaner depending on what you get on them.
Mine have held up for a while. They are good quality. I believe I got them from a harbor frieght catalog or something like that from work. They were
high, maybe $25 usd or so, so I dont think you overpaid to much.
U.T.F.S.E. and learn the joys of autodidacticism!
Don't judge each day only by the harvest you reap, but also by the seeds you sow.
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Mailinmypocket
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Quote: Originally posted by mr.crow  |
Wow, the wait must have been excruciating. Customs would not be happy with that
Congrats on the awesome element though! |
Indeed! Any pics of what they shipped it in or what the material looks like?
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plante1999
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I will take one as soon as possible.
I never asked for this.
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Pyro
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mailinmypocket. it was most likely shipped in a container like this:
as was mine. the powder looked like this:
@Bot0nist: thanks, ill see what I get on them, do you work in a lab? what's it like?
[Edited on 2-9-2013 by Pyro]
all above information is intellectual property of Pyro. |
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Bot0nist
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Mood: Streching my cotyledons.
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I work in a greenhouse and nursery that is currently under expansion. Large amounts of different plastics are involved, so I use fairly large amounts
of diffrent solvents and adhesives. I also work with the various pesticides, fertilizers, buffers, hormones, etc. I also help run the
(semi...)automated misting controls, shades, and under-root heat from the boiler for propagation.
I do have a modest hobby "lab" at home, but work is not a conventional lab at all. Mostly a lot of repetitive work, like snipping thousands of
cuttings or "sticking" unrooted cuttings into rooting media. Hence the moniker <b>Bot</b>0nist. I often feel robotic when at work.
I try to use my intrests in chemistry and the scientific method at work when I can though.
edit:
In retrospect, this is all getting rather off topoic. Perhaps more suited for u2u.
[Edited on 2-9-2013 by Bot0nist]
U.T.F.S.E. and learn the joys of autodidacticism!
Don't judge each day only by the harvest you reap, but also by the seeds you sow.
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Pyro
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that sounds pretty cool, more fun than school
I always thought it was Bot0nist from botanist.
anyway, thanks!
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PeeWee2000
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Hey pyro I use gloves similar to that, they arent butyl theyre just plain rubber if i remember correctly but from my experience its much more
comfortable when I use liner gloves I'd highly recommend an underglove I personally have some fancy Ansell Barrier gloves. If I remember correctly the
undergloves have chemical resistance on par with fluoropolymers so as long as my gloves arent punctured nothing should eat through to my hands  The only complaint about the gloves that I have is that my arm\hand tends to get
quite sweaty after extend periods of wearing them. Other than that I like them much better than disposable loves.
“Everything is relative in this world, where change alone endures.”
― Leon Trotsky
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Pyro
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the liner is plastic? that must be uncomfortable! I actually considered using disposables in them to hold sweat, but as they are slightly big cotton
would be better.
could it be that those so called liners are supposed to go over the glove to protect it? it looks big enough, the fact that they say ''barrier''
instead of liner and the way they seem to bunch up when you wear them enforces this.
Mine are black inside too, is that a cotton inside that is white like that?
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Plutonium239
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I ordered 80g of iodine crystals from China. It was about $30. (Do you guys know of a cheaper source?)
I also went to an army-navy store and got some military chemical gloves, but they are too small.
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Pyro
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lol, mine are a little too big.
thats about right for elemental I2, KI is a bit cheaper
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sonogashira
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Anyone know a good brand for pure TCCA tablets or granules in the UK? Stabilized sodium dichloro- something seems more prevalent?
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UnintentionalChaos
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| Quote: Originally posted by sonogashira | | Anyone know a good brand for pure TCCA tablets or granules in the UK? Stabilized sodium dichloro- something seems more prevalent?
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Sodium Dichloroisocyanurate dihydrate? If you're just generating chlorine gas, it should behave similarly to TCCA, probably reacting more readily and
wasting an eq of HCl though. If TCCA is necessary for your purposes, I think that leading Cl2 into a solution of NaDCCA will drop TCCA as a solid. If
it's not soluble enough or you lose too much that way, stirring a slurry of powdered NaDCCA in water while adding chlorine until it stops absorbing it
should give roughly the same result.
"stabilized" is often thrown in when naming cyanuric acid derivatives for pool use because the cyanuric acid helps keep "chlorine" levels stable in
the water.
Here in the US, pool chlorination products generally come as such when you read the label:
"Quick dissolving shock and chlorinating granules"
-Sodium dichloroisocyanurate dihydrate
-Calcium Hypochlorite. Rarely above 60%, remainder is probably calcium hydroxide as stabilizer.
"stabilized pool chlorinator tabs"
-almost always TCCA, sometimes with added clarifying agent or algecide like CuSO4. Some brands have unlisted filler of some sort to bring content down
to ~90%. Brands I look for list 99%.
"liquid pool chlorinator"
-10% NaOCl
"pool chlorine stabilizer"
-Lists cyanuric acid as only ingredient but it almost surely recycled waste from NaDCCA and TCCA manufacture. I gassed myself with Cl2 by accident
upon adding HCl. Product seems to be a mix of partly chlorinated cyanuric acids.
I've had to store shop to find 99% TCCA tabs. some only carry the blended ~90% ones. Some only have NaDCCA products. An 8oz tab goes for like $3 here,
sold singularly. They also sell large bulk buckets at significant discount.
Department of Redundancy Department - Now with paperwork!
'In organic synthesis, we call decomposition products "crap", however this is not a IUPAC approved nomenclature.' -Nicodem
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sonogashira
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Thanks for the information. Eventually found some.
[Edited on 4-9-2013 by sonogashira]
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woelen
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| Quote: Originally posted by UnintentionalChaos |
"pool chlorine stabilizer"
-Lists cyanuric acid as only ingredient but it almost surely recycled waste from NaDCCA and TCCA manufacture. I gassed myself with Cl2 by accident
upon adding HCl. Product seems to be a mix of partly chlorinated cyanuric acids. |
This can very easily be converted to nice and pure crystalline cyanuric acid. Just add the finely ground solid to dilute HCl (10% or so is OK) and
boil the liquid until all of the solid has dissolved. It dissolves in hot water quite well. During the boiling process all chlorine is boiled off and
what remains is an odorless liquid. If not all of it dissolves in the dilute acid, then add a little more water and bring to a boil again. Keep adding
water till all of it dissolves.
Next, allow to cool down. Nice crystals of cyanuric acid will form. These crystals then can be recrystallized another time from an as little as
possible amount of boiling hot water. This gives a pure product.
[Edited on 4-9-13 by woelen]
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sbbspartan
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Location: Minnesota, USA
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Mood: DEAD (diethyl azodicarboxylate)
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Not really a chemical, but I just won a Welch 1400 vacuum pump on eBay for about $80! Hopefully it will work well for me. It seemed almost new from
the pictures...
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UnintentionalChaos
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| Quote: Originally posted by woelen | | Quote: Originally posted by UnintentionalChaos |
"pool chlorine stabilizer"
-Lists cyanuric acid as only ingredient but it almost surely recycled waste from NaDCCA and TCCA manufacture. I gassed myself with Cl2 by accident
upon adding HCl. Product seems to be a mix of partly chlorinated cyanuric acids. |
This can very easily be converted to nice and pure crystalline cyanuric acid. Just add the finely ground solid to dilute HCl (10% or so is OK) and
boil the liquid until all of the solid has dissolved. It dissolves in hot water quite well. During the boiling process all chlorine is boiled off and
what remains is an odorless liquid. If not all of it dissolves in the dilute acid, then add a little more water and bring to a boil again. Keep adding
water till all of it dissolves.
Next, allow to cool down. Nice crystals of cyanuric acid will form. These crystals then can be recrystallized another time from an as little as
possible amount of boiling hot water. This gives a pure product.
[Edited on 4-9-13 by woelen] |
Yeah, after the Cl2 was gone, this is what I did. As it turns out, cyanuric acid does form a dihydrate, but it dehydrates at a moderate temperature,
so heating the crystals to constant weight is probably advisable if you're going to do anything stoichiometric with them.
Department of Redundancy Department - Now with paperwork!
'In organic synthesis, we call decomposition products "crap", however this is not a IUPAC approved nomenclature.' -Nicodem
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elementcollector1
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Not quite a chemical order, but the glassware is nice!
First up, a high-density polypropylene aspirator pump:
Next, 144 of these ampoules (1 shown outside):
A closeup of 1 ampoule. These things are about 3" long, and are 1mL ampoules.
I'm going to go promptly put as many element samples in these as possible...
Elements Collected:52/87
Latest Acquired: Cl
Next in Line: Nd
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Ascaridole
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Mood: Searching for glass....
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2.25kg KHP Analytical Grade
2.5kg of NaOH Analytical Grade
Time to make some secondary standard for some fun titrations!
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Mailinmypocket
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Formic acid, toluene and calcium oxide... Nothing terribly exciting but a package at the door is always fun 
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plante1999
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500ml Tert butyl alcohol (mostly for T-Bu inorganic esters and for the chloride)
500g sodium sulfite
500ml cyclohexane (to make cyclohexanol)
500g sulphur
500g anh. sodium acetate ( to make acetic anhydride with the sulphur using chlorine)
500g potassium bromide
100g acetamide
I never asked for this.
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