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B(a)P
International Hazard
Posts: 1139
Registered: 29-9-2019
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Mood: Festive
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Quote: Originally posted by B(a)P  | | Yesterday I took delivery of a distillation kit, which included a 3 neck RBF. Unfortunately the 3 neck RBF showed up in about 50 pieces. I immediately
got in touch with the seller, but I have had no response so far. I will give them till the end of the weekend otherwise I will name and shame. Either
way I will let everyone know of the outcome. |
The seller could not replace the broken item, which is a shame because that was of most interest to me. They did however provide a partial refund that
I was happy with. I am not so happy that I would advertise their products and not so unhappy that I would condemn their products, but if you want more
info PM and I would be more than happy to provide it. All in all not much to tell though.
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j_sum1
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OK so not glassware but here seemed the best place to post it.
Fresh out of box:
This has been a long-overdue acquisition. Ceramic top. Rated to 550°C. Good sturdy construction. Hours of productive fun await.
And for those interested:
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-magnetic-stirrer-high-temp-c...
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Sulaiman
International Hazard
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Although I recently bought a 24/40 '1000ml distillation kit' I came across this;
https://www.lazada.com.my/products/1000ml2429distillation-ap...
Due to the price I could not resist buying it.
Converted that is USD8.02
but after discount vouchers etc. the actual cost was USD6.29 incl. p&p
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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morganbw
National Hazard
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Registered: 23-11-2014
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Are you still in the area of the Blue Mosque.
I was there for some weeks, work related but still ingrained in my mind.
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Draeger
Hazard to Others
Posts: 185
Registered: 31-1-2020
Location: North-Rhine Westfalia, Germany
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Mood: Slowly getting ready for new projects
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Not glassware, but following the reasoning of j_sum1. Finally ordered a hot plate stirrer. It's a cheap Chinese one, but it's all I can afford. Just
have to hope it stirs and heats as well as it says in the description and that it won't blow up. I'll post a picture once it gets here. If all goes
well the days of me unprofessionally and uneffectively swirling around beakers will soon be over. 
Collected elements:
Al, Cu, Ga, C (coal), S, Zn, Na
Collected compounds:
Inorganic:
NaOH; NaHCO3; MnCl2; MnCO3; CuSO4; FeSO4; aq. 30-33% HCl; aq. NaClO; aq. 9,5% ammonia; aq. 94-96% H2SO4; aq. 3% H2O2
Organic:
citric acid, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, petroleum, mineral oil
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ekilsawkcalbeoj
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Posts: 7
Registered: 26-6-2020
Location: NYC
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Mood: Energized Blob
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New Rotavapor with custom glassware!
About a month ago I got a steal of a deal on a Buchi Rotavapor R-200 on eBay.
 
Unfortunately, the seller didn't package the glassware appropriately and wrapped it in some bubble wrap and placed it in the same box as the heavy
base unit. The receiver flask, the condenser, and the end catch assembly were DOA.
  
Honestly, most of the value was it being a complete package with really interesting, high-quality glassware, so it was a huge disappointment. Luckily
the package was insured by FedEx, so he's either going to reimburse me out of that, or refund most of what I paid because of the damage.
I reached out to Adams & Chittenden who said the receiver should be a very routine repair, so should have that back in a month. I then acquired a
new condenser, receiver flask, a few new evaporation flasks, and a Woulff bottle (still waiting on that). Here's what it looks like with the
replacement parts and some cleaning
I'm really excited to get the fixed receiver flask back. I believe it's 2000ml and I'm not really sure the purpose of the valve on top and the vent
on the side. I suspect it's for emptying the receiver without losing vacuum? I haven't been able to find anything else like it to even compare.
I also really like the 2L evaporation flask, it was new in box from a guy who bought out all the old surplus from when Brinkmann was the sole US
distributor. The neck on it has an ID of 34mm, same as the steam duct, and it attaches directly to the steam duct, bypassing the adapter while
shortening and widening the distillation path for higher boiling point solvents. I wish I could find more like that in different sizes and it makes
me sad that Buchi stopped producing them long ago!
  
Now I'm trying to address the missing base plate insert for the heating bath, the broken end catch, and the lift mechanism. After many a conversation
and back and forth with the Buchi technicians, I managed to social engineer several chapters of their official service manual as well as internal
repair protocol documents for specific repairs. Those have been a huge help! I think I may just have to buy a new base unit since none of the parts
I need are made anymore... I may just get a R-205 while I'm at it too.
Thanks,
Joe
[Edited on 6/26/2020 by ekilsawkcalbeoj]
[Edited on 6/26/2020 by ekilsawkcalbeoj]
[Edited on 6/26/2020 by ekilsawkcalbeoj]
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Ubya
International Hazard
Posts: 1247
Registered: 23-11-2017
Location: Rome-Italy
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Mood: I'm a maddo scientisto!!!
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bro, use smaller images, they fuck up the page
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feel free to correct my grammar, or any mistakes i make
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ekilsawkcalbeoj
Harmless
Posts: 7
Registered: 26-6-2020
Location: NYC
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Mood: Energized Blob
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Will do, sorry new here!
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Ubya
International Hazard
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Registered: 23-11-2017
Location: Rome-Italy
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Mood: I'm a maddo scientisto!!!
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thanks
you were really lucky to get an entire unit for cheap, it was sad to hear that pretty much all the glassware was broken. How much were all the
repairs?
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feel free to correct my grammar, or any mistakes i make
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ekilsawkcalbeoj
Harmless
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Registered: 26-6-2020
Location: NYC
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Mood: Energized Blob
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| Quote: Originally posted by Ubya |
thanks
you were really lucky to get an entire unit for cheap, it was sad to hear that pretty much all the glassware was broken. How much were all the
repairs? |
I was definitely lucky, especially with the cool receiver. The receiver is fixable and is currently being fixed for about $125. The glass assembly
was not, and a replacement cost me about $380. The broken end catch isn't fixable, the glitchy lift is and I was given some dope service documents by
a cool Buchi Service Engineer I know, but tbh I'm scared to mess with the tension rod that's holding everything up. The tension rod on my unit
doesn't have the screw which is used to adjust the tension. For this reason, I'm thinking it was a third-party repair and can't be adjusted without
destroying the part itself.
I'm negotiating down the price with someone who has a very well maintained base unit, and it's looking to be about $325. It pretty much adds up to
exactly what the package was insured for, just waiting for FedEx to pay up.
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Eddie Current
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How do you rate the performance?
Does it hit the max temperature, and what is the temperature stability like?
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j_sum1
Administrator
Posts: 6333
Registered: 4-10-2014
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In all honesty I have not pushed it yet. Recovery from busted pelvis, catching up with work and family commitments have all kept me out of the lab to
a certain degree. Stirring works a charm and it certainly heats up quickly but I have not got anywhere near its limits on either function. I guess
that is a very positive sign.
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Draeger
Hazard to Others
Posts: 185
Registered: 31-1-2020
Location: North-Rhine Westfalia, Germany
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Mood: Slowly getting ready for new projects
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| Quote: Originally posted by Draeger | | Not glassware, but following the reasoning of j_sum1. Finally ordered a hot plate stirrer. It's a cheap Chinese one, but it's all I can afford. Just
have to hope it stirs and heats as well as it says in the description and that it won't blow up. I'll post a picture once it gets here. If all goes
well the days of me unprofessionally and uneffectively swirling around beakers will soon be over. |
The stirrer is here.
It came with a broken plug because it was badly packaged. Luckily my father had a spare and is good at soldering so he just attached a new one. Except
for that everything was alright.
Stirring works quite well as far as I can tell. Definitely enough for my purposes, at least so far. On fast speed it often splatters, though. Is that
normal?
Heating is worse. It takes a while to get to the boiling point of water on half heat and it isn't insulated so the entire device heats up. I'll add
some insulation at some point.
I'm unsure what the contraption next to the plate is for. You can take it off, though, so I'll do that until I know what it is. Does anyone know what
it is for?
I rate it as alright, hoping the broken plug was a rare event. With two extra stir bars and a discount I got for my first purchase on the website I
paid about 52€
[Edited on 2-7-2020 by Draeger]
Collected elements:
Al, Cu, Ga, C (coal), S, Zn, Na
Collected compounds:
Inorganic:
NaOH; NaHCO3; MnCl2; MnCO3; CuSO4; FeSO4; aq. 30-33% HCl; aq. NaClO; aq. 9,5% ammonia; aq. 94-96% H2SO4; aq. 3% H2O2
Organic:
citric acid, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, petroleum, mineral oil
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Abromination
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Posts: 432
Registered: 10-7-2018
Location: Alaska
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@draeger,
Many of these units sold on Amazon either break quickly or have trouble producing temperatures above 100 degrees. When buying a hotplate it is
important to make sure the watt rating is above at least 600.
List of materials made by ScienceMadness.org users:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1nmJ8uq-h4IkXPxD5svnT...
--------------------------------
Elements Collected: H, Li, B, C, N, O, Mg, Al, Si, P, S, Fe, Ni, Cu, Zn, Ag, I, Au, Pb, Bi, Am
Last Acquired: B
Next: Na
-------------- |
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Draeger
Hazard to Others
Posts: 185
Registered: 31-1-2020
Location: North-Rhine Westfalia, Germany
Member Is Offline
Mood: Slowly getting ready for new projects
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| Quote: Originally posted by Abromination | @draeger,
Many of these units sold on Amazon either break quickly or have trouble producing temperatures above 100 degrees. When buying a hotplate it is
important to make sure the watt rating is above at least 600. |
Had to just take the cheapest I found. I'm on an extremely tight budget so units that are actually in any way comparable to western quality aren't in
my price range.
Collected elements:
Al, Cu, Ga, C (coal), S, Zn, Na
Collected compounds:
Inorganic:
NaOH; NaHCO3; MnCl2; MnCO3; CuSO4; FeSO4; aq. 30-33% HCl; aq. NaClO; aq. 9,5% ammonia; aq. 94-96% H2SO4; aq. 3% H2O2
Organic:
citric acid, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, petroleum, mineral oil
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Belowzero
Hazard to Others
Posts: 173
Registered: 6-5-2020
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| Quote: Originally posted by Draeger |
Stirring works quite well as far as I can tell. Definitely enough for my purposes, at least so far. On fast speed it often splatters, though. Is that
normal?
I'm unsure what the contraption next to the plate is for. You can take it off, though, so I'll do that until I know what it is. Does anyone know what
it is for?
[Edited on 2-7-2020 by Draeger] |
The splattering is normal, depends a bit of the type/size of the magnet and the size of your container.
Its a built in lab stand, used to clamp glassware, quite convenient that it's built in actually.
Usually the clamps look like this:
Or if you are building a larger setup it can be used to connect it to other stands to stabilize the whole.
[Edited on 3-7-2020 by Belowzero]
[Edited on 3-7-2020 by Belowzero]
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CharlieA
National Hazard
Posts: 646
Registered: 11-8-2015
Location: Missouri, USA
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From the looks of the clamp, it looks like it might be multi-functional; perhaps to hold a thermometer/thermocouple probe/small hoses (to add a gas
perhaps.
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Heptylene
Hazard to Others
Posts: 319
Registered: 22-10-2016
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DN 150 reactor
I just bought a 4 liter reactor + 5 neck lid on a local website for $80! Came without any damage or chips. It has a large "DN 150" duran flange and
the glass is really thick. The ID is about 14.5 cm, OD about 16 cm, 30 cm tall + 15 cm for the lid.
Second photo shows it connected to a vacuum pump to test it.
I have some vacuum and plasma experiments planned for this, but not many idea chemistry-wise. Perhaps a chlorate cell? Does anyone have large-scale
reaction suggestions?
 
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Sulaiman
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Posts: 3721
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Location: 3rd rock from the sun
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There are so many uses,
Dessicator, Digester, electrochemistry, vivarium, ...
First you could consider standardising 'tubing' diameters;
Glass tubing for gas/liquid in/out, thermometer or thermocouple shafts, and maybe overhead stirrer.
As the cheap Chinese overhead stir shafts are 7mm diameter,
maybe 7mm is an option.
7mm od x 5mm id glass tubes could also be used to sheath electrical wires etc.
Might reduce the total number of stopper-adapter pieces accumulated
The ptfe (with internal rubber O-ring) bearing stoppers for the overhead stirrers may be useful.
Dedicated all-glass adapters are preferable due to inertnes,
but glass tubes are cheap enough to try glass bending, stretching and sealing ideas
- without regretting failures
[Edited on 5-7-2020 by Sulaiman]
CAUTION : Hobby Chemist, not Professional or even Amateur
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wg48temp9
National Hazard
Posts: 786
Registered: 30-12-2018
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| Quote: Originally posted by Heptylene | I just bought a 4 liter reactor + 5 neck lid on a local website for $80! Came without any damage or chips. It has a large "DN 150" duran flange and
the glass is really thick. The ID is about 14.5 cm, OD about 16 cm, 30 cm tall + 15 cm for the lid.
Second photo shows it connected to a vacuum pump to test it.
I have some vacuum and plasma experiments planned for this, but not many idea chemistry-wise. Perhaps a chlorate cell? Does anyone have large-scale
reaction suggestions? |
You could kill two birds with one stone and try to make coated electrodes by sputtering lead dioxide on to them or just lead with very low pressure
oxygen. You will need a microwave oven transformer with a current limiting ballast, preferably rectified for the HT power supply.
I am wg48 but not on my usual pc hence the temp handle.
Thank goodness for Fleming and the fungi.
Old codger' lives matters, wear a mask and help save them.
Be aware of demagoguery, keep your frontal lobes fully engaged.
I don't know who invented mRNA vaccines but they should get a fancy medal and I hope they made a shed load of money from it.
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Heptylene
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Sulaiman: Overhead stirring sounds good. Definitely needed for reactions as I doubt my stirbars are large enough for this beast of a reactor. I
already have a glass stirrer rod with an impeller which, maybe it fits the chinese stirrer bearings!
I also like the idea of having glass tube to pump liquid in and out. I have a 29/32 thermometer adapter with a teflon joint that actually fits 10 mm
tubing, so I might get a couple more for inlet and outlet.
wg48: I actually already have an MMO anode, so lead dioxide is not needed at least for chlorates. Besides I think PbO2 anodes can be made by
electrolysis methods. Do you know if the sputtered ones have an advantage over the ones made by electrolysis?
I might try sputtering anyway. Do you know if a roughing pump is sufficient for this? I'm repairing a 2-stage rotary vane pump at the moment,
hopefully it will pull down to 1e-5 atm  .
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wg48temp9
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| Quote: Originally posted by Heptylene |
wg48: I actually already have an MMO anode, so lead dioxide is not needed at least for chlorates. Besides I think PbO2 anodes can be made by
electrolysis methods. Do you know if the sputtered ones have an advantage over the ones made by electrolysis?
I might try sputtering anyway. Do you know if a roughing pump is sufficient for this? I'm repairing a 2-stage rotary vane pump at the moment,
hopefully it will pull down to 1e-5 atm .
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No I do not know if anodes made by sputtering or other vacuum techniques have an advantage. I can say that potentially they can produce unique
materials or unusual forms of compounds that may have desirable properties for anodes. I thought you just wanted to experiment (play)
Sputtering requires some gas pressure to works so a roughing pump may be fine. With single stage pump I have evaporated tungsten from a tungsten rod
electrically heated by the current from a one turn secondary of a toroidal transformer. The initial effect is to getter the residual gases and hence
improve the vacuum. The film formed was a transparent blue colour (probably an oxide) with good adherence to glass.
You can also improve the vacuum by making a discharge between aluminium electrodes. That also gives an indication of the vacuum. The more defuse
discharge covering more of the electrodes indicates a better vacuum. A dark discharge indicates a good vacuum. No discharge a very good vacuum or no
vacuum.
You can connect up as much of your glass as you have in a line and create discharge from end to end. it will even discharge thru a wash bottle filled
molecular sieves or plastic tubing.
Make certain the last electrode is earthed and is the electrode nearest the pump or the discharge will use the pump as an electrode. That's how I
discovered the discharge can go thru a wash bottle filled with sieves I was using as a trap for oil vapour from the pump and water vapour from the
chamber.
PS: I found a diagram illustrating how a discharge changes with pressure. Note you only get that type of display with a ballasted DC supply.
[Edited on 7/5/2020 by wg48temp9]
I am wg48 but not on my usual pc hence the temp handle.
Thank goodness for Fleming and the fungi.
Old codger' lives matters, wear a mask and help save them.
Be aware of demagoguery, keep your frontal lobes fully engaged.
I don't know who invented mRNA vaccines but they should get a fancy medal and I hope they made a shed load of money from it.
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Eddie Current
Hazard to Self
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Registered: 25-7-2018
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A vacuum drying pistol
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arkoma
Redneck Overlord
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Gift from my friend in California
"We believe the knowledge and cultural heritage of mankind should be accessible to all people around the world, regardless of their wealth, social
status, nationality, citizenship, etc" z-lib
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Draeger
Hazard to Others
Posts: 185
Registered: 31-1-2020
Location: North-Rhine Westfalia, Germany
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Mood: Slowly getting ready for new projects
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Wow, what a nice friend. Those things are surprisingly expensive.
Collected elements:
Al, Cu, Ga, C (coal), S, Zn, Na
Collected compounds:
Inorganic:
NaOH; NaHCO3; MnCl2; MnCO3; CuSO4; FeSO4; aq. 30-33% HCl; aq. NaClO; aq. 9,5% ammonia; aq. 94-96% H2SO4; aq. 3% H2O2
Organic:
citric acid, sodium acetate, sodium citrate, petroleum, mineral oil
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