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gdflp
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Try WD40, spray some around the joint and let it sit for a few minutes. Repeat this a few times and then let it sit for an hour. The goal is to try
to get some WD40 to leak into the joint and loosen it. This is the only method I use for stuck glassware, but some other methods which I haven't
tried are gently tapping the joint with a rubber mallet while trying to pull it apart, and using a mixture of acetone and acetic acid to replace the
WD40. Vacuum desiccators generally have very thick glass, so I would imagine that trying to heat up and expand one side of the joint won't work, but
you could try.
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Metacelsus
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I had a problem with a stuck vacuum dessicator once (at a lab at a local university), and it was solved by use of a heat gun. The nice thing is that
it's a flat joint, so it's easy to heat up one side (the top) only.
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Jylliana
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Noted. I'll try it. Thanks, both 
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Zombie
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Following Cheddite's lead...
Heat source on the outer join, and cold (Dry Ice) held on the inner join will separate them almost instantly unless there is a chemical bond.
I work with tapers, and press fit parts regularly, and nothing works better than heat/cold applied to opposite sides.
The other end of this spectrum is tapping. A rubber mallet will not work (well). Actually a hard plastic hammer is much better, and you do NOT hit the
join. You hit the bottom edge of the flask/beaker/whatever. The idea is to create a shock wave that distorts the taper and the join will expel what
ever is in it.
I've used shock cord/det cord to remove boat props, when heat/cold failed.
If it breaks after all of this... Good riddance!
They tried to have me "put to sleep" so I came back to return the favor.
Zom.
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The Volatile Chemist
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I added a dilute solution of sodium bicarb. to a concentrated solution of cobalt chloride. A purple-ish precipitate formed after some time, but no
carbon dioxide was formed. Furthermore, although I used stiochemically accurate quantities of reagents, the solution is still the color of cobalt
chloride. I've found in the past I've had some trouble figuring out carbonates vs. hydroxides, and which are formed, some help would be nice.
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Jylliana
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My dessicator is unstuck!
Applying heat to the top half did the trick. I didn't have WD40 on hand so I tried the heat first. Thanks! 
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Brain&Force
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Quote: Originally posted by The Volatile Chemist  | | I added a dilute solution of sodium bicarb. to a concentrated solution of cobalt chloride. A purple-ish precipitate formed after some time, but no
carbon dioxide was formed. Furthermore, although I used stiochemically accurate quantities of reagents, the solution is still the color of cobalt
chloride. I've found in the past I've had some trouble figuring out carbonates vs. hydroxides, and which are formed, some help would be nice.
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Don't add stoichiometric quantities when attempting precipitation.
All solids have a solubility product which defines the equilibrium between two dissolved species, in this case cobalt and carbonate. To drive the
equilibrium to the right you need to add more of the precipitating agent. The excess carbonate drops more cobalt out of solution. This is known as the
common-ion effect.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solubility_equilibrium
At the end of the day, simulating atoms doesn't beat working with the real things...
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The Volatile Chemist
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Thanks.
And I'm not fond of your 'facebook' link. I'd seen it before, but without speakers........
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Brain&Force
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Just note that this represents what I think of Facebook...
At the end of the day, simulating atoms doesn't beat working with the real things...
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The Volatile Chemist
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It represents what I think of Facebook, too, but still...
Thanks for your help, I precipitated all of my CoCO3.
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SimpleChemist-238
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What is the safest and most legal way to get dispose of small amounts of uranium water such as .5g of UO2? Hypothetical.
We are chemists , we bring light to the darkness. Knowledge to ignorant, excitement to the depressed and unknowing. we bring crops to broken fields
and water to the desert. Where there is fear we bring curiosity.
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j_sum1
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Legal is not a sliding scale. It is either legal or illegal. And it would depend on your jurisdiction.
I doubt anyone is going to come knocking on your door though (Unless you have an active branch of the Nuclear Police armed with geiger counters
patrolling your area.)
I think the question you need is, "What is the most environmentally responsible means for disposing of waste uranium solutions and precipitates?" For
that, I would like to know the answer too. (Equally hypothetical.)
My very small quantities of solutions and precipitate wastes are (1) precipitated to stable safer forms as much as possible, (2) concentrated via
evaporation and (3) mixed with cement to make concrete blocks for solid waste disposal. That said, the highest toxicity I play with is Pb. I am not
sure that this procedure is suited for anything really nasty or for anything radioactive.
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Zyklon-A
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Depleted uranium is barely radioactive.
It is a heavy metal however and is toxic for that reason. I'd. Precipitate it as the most insoluble salt as possible, that is not too toxic. Then
bring it to the same place I take broken mercury lightbulbs to, Home Depot in my case.
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SimpleChemist-238
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Can you make it into a peroxide thats insoluble and flush it into a utility drain with lots of water? Its depleted and the most dangerous aspect is
the heavy metal part.
[Edited on 23-1-2015 by SimpleChemist-238]
We are chemists , we bring light to the darkness. Knowledge to ignorant, excitement to the depressed and unknowing. we bring crops to broken fields
and water to the desert. Where there is fear we bring curiosity.
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j_sum1
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| Quote: Originally posted by Zyklon-A | Depleted uranium is barely radioactive.
It is a heavy metal however and is toxic for that reason. I'd. Precipitate it as the most insoluble salt as possible, that is not too toxic. Then
bring it to the same place I take broken mercury lightbulbs to, Home Depot in my case. |
Agreed on the depleted U. However, if ores are your start material (I am thinking of a particular video in the bad chemistry videos thread) then you
are going to have mixed heavy metal radioactive salts as waste. I really don't know what is an acceptable disposal method for that. I certainly
don't have anyone or anywhere I could "take it to".
It is a potential area of interest. I would want to have my disposal procedures fully sorted out before I began even buying anything. I know that
there are a few chemists on this site that have experience of this. I would like to know what a sensible solution is.
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SimpleChemist-238
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My starting material is depleted UO2. Not ore.
We are chemists , we bring light to the darkness. Knowledge to ignorant, excitement to the depressed and unknowing. we bring crops to broken fields
and water to the desert. Where there is fear we bring curiosity.
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The Volatile Chemist
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Starting to sound less hypothetical. But that's OK, it's just best to be honest on this site.
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AlphaDecay
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What is the best way to remove colloidal particles in 98% sulfuric acid? I'd assume that concentrated H2SO4 would react with ordinary filter paper,
wouldn't it?
Thanks
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Chemosynthesis
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Yes.
Vacuum distillation might be fastest. Depending on your particle size, a frit might clog.
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SimpleChemist-238
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has any one had problems with a very old sample of HCl and or HCl from Home Depot. In 3 experiments the HCl was not doing what I needed it to do. I
think that it is because of how old the sample of acid is or that I got it from Home Depot.
We are chemists , we bring light to the darkness. Knowledge to ignorant, excitement to the depressed and unknowing. we bring crops to broken fields
and water to the desert. Where there is fear we bring curiosity.
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Zombie
Forum Hillbilly
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You may have had another issue. I use HCL (Home Depot/Ace Hardware) almost daily for cleaning dark water stains off of fiberglass boat hulls. I have
several cases I bought almost 5 years ago, and several opened bottles that have sat in different locations for years.
I have never had a bottle "go bad".
Perhaps if the bottle were left wide open to the environment for a year or more... but never anything like an "old stock" issue.
They tried to have me "put to sleep" so I came back to return the favor.
Zom.
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Molecular Manipulations
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| Quote: Originally posted by SimpleChemist-238 | | has any one had problems with a very old sample of HCl and or HCl from Home Depot. In 3 experiments the HCl was not doing what I needed it to do. I
think that it is because of how old the sample of acid is or that I got it from Home Depot. |
If you want an answer you should give more details, what experiments? What did it do?
What's the brand name? I've used Home Depot HCl (aq) and never had any problems.
-The manipulator
We are all here on earth to help others; what on earth the others are here for I don't know. -W. H. Auden
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SimpleChemist-238
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I tired to dissolve gallium metal in the HCl and H2O2. No reaction even over a few days. Was it just the experiment? I know it reacts very slowly but
after 3 days I would expect some reaction.
We are chemists , we bring light to the darkness. Knowledge to ignorant, excitement to the depressed and unknowing. we bring crops to broken fields
and water to the desert. Where there is fear we bring curiosity.
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math
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Butane cooling
Question:
can I safely put a small butane canister (lighter refills) at -15°C for some hours then expect to take it out and pour liquid butane out of it by
pushing the valve (as usually done when filling a lighter) ?
Thank you
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Argentum
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Question
Is there any way of recognizing sulphuric acid without using a pH-meter or pH paper?
It's from a liquid drain cleaner, it should be H2SO4 but I'd like to be sure.
No, the label doesn't says the content of the bottle.
Thanks!
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