MichiganMadScientist
Hazard to Self
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 55
Registered: 22-7-2013
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Weak Hydroxide solutions Eating Glassware?
Hi There:
We all know that strong concentrations of hydroxide will eat through glassware. Especially if one applies heat.
My question is: I have frequently prepared relatively weak solutions of hydroxides (perhaps < 3.0-5.0 Molar) in volumetric glassware. I'm usually
pretty decent in terms of washing out my glassware when I'm done, but suppose I only used water to wash out these flasks, and then left them to dry in
my store room for several months.
Can I reasonably expect degradation of my glassware from residual hydroxides that may have not perfectly washed away? What is your experience with
weak Hydroxide solutions degrading glassware? Or is it safe to assume that only strongish solutions of Hydroxides put glassware at appreciable risk?
Thanks for your help.![:)](./images/smilies/smile.gif)
[Edited on 29-9-2013 by MichiganMadScientist]
|
|
Chemosynthesis
International Hazard
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 1071
Registered: 26-9-2013
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Should be fine. I generally have not found appreciable degradation of glassware from base baths used in cleaning if washed within the day.
I would be a little more careful with calibrated analytical glassware, even if out of paranoia. If you're worried, wash with a weak acid. That's
similar in concept to how we cleaned fritted funnels that were base sensitive (nitric bath).
|
|
sonogashira
National Hazard
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 555
Registered: 10-9-2006
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
What? No one told my 50% NaOH! ![:P](./images/smilies/tongue.gif)
Where have you heard this?! Slight etching perhaps, but not eating through glassware, surely?
|
|
MichiganMadScientist
Hazard to Self
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 55
Registered: 22-7-2013
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
So, it's safe to say that any residual NaOH left behind from weak solutions will have no long term effect on my glassware? You're making it sound like
even strong solutions only have a negligable effect?
|
|
sonogashira
National Hazard
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 555
Registered: 10-9-2006
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
I don't know where you have come across this information. I have stored 50% aqueous NaOH solution in a glass bottle for several years, Perhaps you
have confused it with molten sodium hydroxide?
|
|
12AX7
Post Harlot
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 4803
Registered: 8-3-2005
Location: oscillating
Member Is Offline
Mood: informative
|
|
I've seen strong NaOH etch a noticeable step in a glass jar (soda lime type), if I had to guess, maybe 5 thousandths of an inch (about 0.12mm). It
sat for some time at room temperature, maybe weeks. It wasn't frosted, but remained polished.
Weak solutions should fairly quickly absorb sufficient CO2 from the atmosphere to drop the pH out of the danger zone as they dry. Probably the pH of
tap water is comparable, after rinsing, anyway (which can be 8-9 with hard, alkaline water, I think?). A squirt of white vinegar would be cheap
insurance, but probably unnecessary.
Tim
|
|
woelen
Super Administrator
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 7990
Registered: 20-8-2005
Location: Netherlands
Member Is Offline
Mood: interested
|
|
Strong solutions do have effect on glassware, but only very slowly. I once allowed a concentrated solution of NaOH stand in a jar for a few weeks.
After that, the jar was a little bit frosty from the bottom, up to the level of the surface of the liquid.
A weak solution will take an even longer time to etch your glass, but I would suggest to rinse your glassware quite well if you put it away for weeks.
You do not have to fear serious damage if you keep it wet with a weakly alkaline solution for a day or so.
When I clean my glassware for long-term storage, I rinse with tapwater, then with a little amount of dilute acetic acid (3% or so) and then with
distilled water and then I put away the glassware, unstoppered. Then, after months of storage, the glassware is perfectly clean and I can use it right
away out of the box. Acetic acid is very nice for this, because if small residues of this acid remain, then these simply evaporate and no non-volatile
residue remains behind. I use real acetic acid and not household vinegar. The latter may have salts, spices and sugars as non-volatile residue.
|
|
Endimion17
International Hazard
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 1468
Registered: 17-7-2011
Location: shores of a solar sea
Member Is Offline
Mood: speeding through time at the rate of 1 second per second
|
|
It surely won't eat through the glass, but it will affect first class precision calibrated volumetric glassware if the exposure is often and it lasts
for a long time or the temperatures are higher than specified. I wouldn't tease my expensive stuff like that.
If you need to expose such glassware to mild alkalis, do it fast and later use a quick HCl soak.
|
|
Mailinmypocket
International Hazard
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 1351
Registered: 12-5-2011
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Let's not forget about how NaOH solutions can cause ground glass stoppers and connections to stick after lengthy exposure, had it happen once and I
ruined the neck of the bottle trying to remove it.
|
|
bfesser
Resident Wikipedian
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 2114
Registered: 29-1-2008
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Exactly why I prefer hollow stoppers. If all else fails, break off the head of the stopper, then shatter the inside of the stopper with a hammer and
nail. Stoppers are relatively cheap, and this saves the bottle (+ contents).
|
|
MichiganMadScientist
Hazard to Self
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 55
Registered: 22-7-2013
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Well, now I'm paranoid. In reality, I always wash my stuff before storage, but I haven't made a habit of doing acetic acid washes. Right now, my
glassware has gone over a year without obvious etching, but I'm scared too see how it will look in five years. Additionally, most of my volumetric
stuff was purchased used, and all bears minor scratches. Maybe I'll try and save up to buy all new volumetric flasks....
|
|
bfesser
Resident Wikipedian
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 2114
Registered: 29-1-2008
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Quote: Originally posted by woelen ![](images/xpblue/lastpost.gif) | When I clean my glassware for long-term storage, I rinse with tapwater, then with a little amount of dilute acetic acid (3% or so) and then with
distilled water and then I put away the glassware, unstoppered. Then, after months of storage, the glassware is perfectly clean and I can use it right
away out of the box. Acetic acid is very nice for this, because if small residues of this acid remain, then these simply evaporate and no non-volatile
residue remains behind. I use real acetic acid and not household vinegar. The latter may have salts, spices and sugars as non-volatile residue.
| I just use a wash of the hottest tap water I can manage (usually badly scalding my hands) followed by
thorough rinsing with distilled water, thrice. Finally, I dry it in a dust-free environment or an oven, and cover openings with Al-foil before
storage. It's clean enough for amateur analytical work right out of storage.
|
|
Ascaridole
Hazard to Self
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 67
Registered: 11-9-2013
Location: Hawaii, USA
Member Is Offline
Mood: Searching for glass....
|
|
I think the answer to your question is dependent on the purpose of the glassware you are talking about. When I perform any analytical work I always
use a dilute nitric acid bath followed by a good three washings with DI water. I like to squeeze as much performance out of my equipment as possible.
I didn't spend money on my class A stuff for nothing.
As for your concerns of residual NaOH on your analytical glass, everyone is probably correct. Its fine. However I would be worried about the effects
that residual NaOH will have on the next solution I prepare in the volumetric flask.
|
|
sonogashira
National Hazard
![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif) ![*](images/xpblue/star.gif)
Posts: 555
Registered: 10-9-2006
Member Is Offline
Mood: No Mood
|
|
Perhaps you should do a simple acid base titration to see how much "residual NaOH" you have left after washing your glassware thoroughly with water.
You will find none.
|
|