YT2095 - 28-3-2007 at 05:46
a problem with Double glassing over winter is the lack of air circulation, living in a cold damp area there`s a lot of blackish mold / mildew around
the windows.
obviously this will be cleaned off, but Which Copper salt would any of you recommend to prevent re occurance? of this problem?
I have: chloride, nitrate, sulphate, acetate, carbonate, sulphamate, and can make more or less any other if that would be better.
I was thinking the Chloride personally but I`m not certain, Your Thoughts please...
Pyridinium - 28-3-2007 at 07:12
I would imagine the copper acetate, having an organic moiety, would be most readiliy assimilated by mold organisms.
I do recall from an early CRC handbook, back when they used to have an "arts and recipes" section, they recommended 5% CuSO4 to keep mold and mildew
off of leather book bindings. So, either that or the acetate is probably a good bet.
(Edited for clarity)
[Edited on 28-3-2007 by Pyridinium]
YT2095 - 28-3-2007 at 07:31
well I did wonder about the acetate myself also, as it`s been used for centuries, but also wondered if that was to do more with ease of manufacture
(copper plates in old grape skins) than something that was Really potent.
I use Copper sulphate soln on my plant seedlings as a spray to prevent "damping off".
the reason I thought the CuCl2 was that if it separates both the Cl2 and Cu are toxic, whereas the Acetate part may provide "Food"?
the Sulphate idea`s good though, that stuff is pretty hard to break down and would probably last much longer as a wipe over 
UnintentionalChaos - 28-3-2007 at 07:59
Copper is toxic to humans, but significantly more toxic to microorganisms. Even insoluble copper compounds will slowly be broken down and poison the
stuff. A lot of copper fungicides sold commercially are either hydroxide, oxychloride, or a long chain fatty acid salt in an oil medium or water
emulsification. I think the acetate was popular because you can make it into Paris green Cupro-acetoarsenite which is incredibly potent (for obvious
reasons). I'd stick with the sulfate since it's nice and stable.
12AX7 - 28-3-2007 at 08:00
I would imagine oxychloride would be a straightforward treatment: slowly soluble, it isn't washed away by rain. I don't know how much it takes to
kill a fungus though.
Tim
not_important - 28-3-2007 at 08:44
Copper borates, from copper sulfate and borax. or cupric hydroxide and boric acid. Boron is somewhat toxic, especialy if you are surrounded by it.
Could also add zinc borate as well.
On problem with fighting fungi is that they are eukaryote, and opisthokonts at that, and so are fairly close relatives to us, unlike bacteria which
are quit distant, or plants and green algae, the other algae, diatoms, and the rest of the protists. As such, the stuff that poisons them tends to
poison us as well.
A wipe with a solution containing SO2, or a bisulfite, might help control them during the damp time, as many of them are sensitive to it.
Chloride is usually a bad idea around metals, as for most it increases corrosion; and it's not that toxic. You see chlorides in antiseptics, but it's
there as part of quaternary amine salts, the amine part is the toxic element, the chloride is a cheap and convenient anion.
YT2095 - 28-3-2007 at 08:53
wow, I LIKE that Borate idea!
I have a tub of Boric acid and also Copper Carbonate, I think I`ll go that route, as the problem is Indoors and so solubility issues from weather
aren`t a problem, only the condensation.
and yes, Boron is quite toxic too
IIRC isn`t it used for *ehem* Vaginal treatment against certain infections also, as well as Ant Killer.
not_important - 28-3-2007 at 09:19
For treating Candida infections, it works better than many of the anti-fungal meds in many cases. Follow up with probiotics to restore a good balance
of fauna.
Roach killer too, boric acid or borax. Works on most crawling insects, gets on their leg hairs and eaten when they clean the hairs.
Works even better if you have a source of slow neutrons.
Might try the Cu/Zn borate plus excess boric acid, for wood surfaces mix with a little propylene glycol which will carry the boric acid and some of
the metal ions into the wood a little.
YT2095 - 28-3-2007 at 09:42
this is growing on Plastic would ya believe! and on the wall paper in the window alcove.
there`s even some on the Glass! amazing I know, Frakin` stuff!
edit: and yeah, Slow Neutrons aren`t a problem either, what/how would I use them (for)?
[Edited on 28-3-2007 by YT2095]
12AX7 - 28-3-2007 at 10:02
Eh, you don't want neutrons...those leave residual radiation. Gamma or x-ray radiation is fine, though.
Tim
not_important - 28-3-2007 at 10:11
It's a joke, son. For details see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boron_Neutron_Capture_Therapy and imagine boron laden insects in the neutron beam.
YT2095 - 28-3-2007 at 11:10
thnx Papa 
I wasn`t about to get the neutron gun out anyway, it doesn`t leave the Lab.
as for Gamma, same applies too, although it Might make an interesting "bench test" in the summer when there`s kazillions of ants out
I think I`ll make some Copper Borate and try that for a season, not only that but I don`t have any anyway, so it`ll be an interesting salt to add to
the shelves
12AX7 - 28-3-2007 at 13:19
Ah, didn't know about that procedure. Interesting.
Tim