I am starting to get into crystal growing with a tad more quality with my results. As such I need help setting up (and understanding) a PID controller
I recently purchased off of Ebay. Schematic
I have found for it online. I need to know how to set this up, with a heat lamp as the heating source. Would it be the best to splice a line from an
extension cord to a heat lamp and then connect them to the PID? I'm sorry but my electrical engineering abilities are lacking, I have no practice.
If I were to guess the using this schematic, 1 and 3 are live wires, 2 and 4 are the ground? Then the NTC is the temperature sensor.
The unit runs on 10A @ 250V AC, which should run right off a wall outlet. The heatlamp would also run off of a wall outlet, but I am not sure how to
wire this thing. Any help will be greatly appreciated!smerg - 4-6-2016 at 21:20
here's one that i wired in the past to make a PID controlled oven for drying glassware etc.
the red and black wires are your 100-240V AC. that comes directly from the wall. This is the power supply for the PID. obviously the glass coated wire
is the thermocouple. make sure you get the polarity right otherwise the temps will not be correct on the pid. you will know if the thermocouple is on
backwards because if you heat the thermocouple the temp will go down not up. the black and blue wires are the load which i put directly into a 12v
coil relay which then powered a heating element. you need to check the voltage output of those pins with a multimeter to determine what kind of relay
you need to buy. sorry i am too lazy to make a schematic for you but this should help.
hope that helps. refer to your schematics to determine which pin is which on your particular pid.
[Edited on 5-6-2016 by smerg]Fidelmios - 4-6-2016 at 21:30
Thank you very much, I think my question is, since my heat lamp already plugs into the wall outlet, I shouldn't need to buy anything else right?smerg - 4-6-2016 at 22:47
your heat lamp will need to still be plugged into the wall but you need a relay to act as the switch to turn it off and on. you may need to make
yourself a ghetto power strip with a wall socket with the relay wired in series with the wall. that way the pid controls the relay, and the relay
switches your lamp.
like this:
sorry for the crude 1 minute paint schematic.
Hegi - 5-6-2016 at 04:57
Hi guys,
I´ve just bought the same thing and I really think I have the same idea as Fidelmios. Smerg, thanks for the circuit you draw - it will help a lot.
Looking closely after an hour on the scheme fidelmios posted... It looks like there is a switch in the box (between 1-2 pins)! That scheme does not
make sense for relay. Am I wrong?
[Edited on 5-6-2016 by Hegi]violet sin - 5-6-2016 at 09:54
Additional outlet box + cord with power ran through SSR before it goes to the receptacle. PID has its own power cord, and outputs a signal to SSR
when needed -> turn on receptacle.
The blue/purple wires coming off the top feed signal to SSR, disconnected temporarily when I remade the stand from aluminum instead of wood. Set back
in place for second photo.
Hope this helps
My PID was sold as compatible with the supplied SSR, it of course was not. The tiny internal relay triger contacts were used to supply SSR signal
with use of a soldering iron. I didn't trust that onboard part against failure during load spikes. Means it will die of old age as a sensor/signal
unit(hopefully), instead of a quick death by handling wall power switching to heavy draw heaters. There is a lot of info about working with the cheap
knock-offs on ebay. From setting the sense temperatures above 400' some are sold at, to making one work with a SSR.
This unit has been a fun project, and useful for quite some time.
[Edited on 5-6-2016 by violet sin]wg48 - 5-6-2016 at 10:18
From the spec the controller can switch up to 10A so assuming your heat lamp draws less than that no additional additional relay is required.
The simplest wiring scheme is place your controller in a box and wire it up to a mains power lead. Perhaps half the power lead on the lamp, the half
with the plug.
The heat lamp is then wired in to the controller as shown in your schematic.
Just incase there is any misunderstanding. Your connected up the live and neutral not the earth.
Its usual to connect the live to one side of the switched output and the neutral to one side of the load. For flexibility you would can wire up the
lamp via a socket on the box.
[Edited on 5-6-2016 by wg48]
Thinking about it you need to check manual that it can switch 10A without an extra relay that they don't tell you about in the ad.
[Edited on 5-6-2016 by wg48]aga - 5-6-2016 at 12:28
SM needs it's own 'Standard' PID controller based on arduino.
Any takers ?
[Edited on 5-6-2016 by aga]Sulaiman - 5-6-2016 at 13:06
That is basically the set i bought. But the PID was an internal relay type even though the SSR was included... Meaning you had to have a low voltage
power source that the PID was switching on/off to the SSR, which was in turn switching mains voltage to a heater = messy. Thats why removing the
relay or at least soldering leads from the relay triger contacts was needed to use the SSR properly. Who wants to have 3 power cords for the thing?
PID, low V & mains for SSR... Or you could trust the PID wasnt going to fry while switching heating loads at mains V.
Are you sure this isnt the case with this set also?Fidelmios - 5-6-2016 at 20:46
It also came with a japanese? manual, and a temperature probe Fidelmios - 5-6-2016 at 22:02
Here is a video kinda confirming my schematic. Since the ports 1 and 2 come with a relay I should be fine. So I guess my question is how would I do
this with my set up?smerg - 6-6-2016 at 18:27
Sorry but my first schematic is wrong. i completely forgot that i broke into my PID circuit and upgraded the crappy internal relay the thing came with
using the 12vdc the board supplied for the relay coil. my bad.
hegi you are right my bad.
So all you need to do is splice the positive wire of your load through pin 1 and 2.
that would make the schematic look like this instead:
[Edited on 7-6-2016 by smerg]Hegi - 1-7-2016 at 00:29
So all you need to do is splice the positive wire of your load through pin 1 and 2.
Yes man, the last scheme is the right one. Anyway, Fidelmios, did you manage to wire it? I did and here´s the result. Also I did a quick test - i
placed 1.3 L of fresh water into a glass bowl and set temperature at 40.0 °C. You can see from the graph it works very well. I´m looking forward to
use it for crystallization process.
Fidelmios - 27-8-2016 at 00:33
Not yet, I had a but of a problem finishing my secondary circuit. I sorta messed up and burnt out my stirring motor.
I'll try again when I get home, I think I may have reversed the leads when attempting to power the pd the first time.
