Hopefully it will be expanded and improved in the future.nuclear - 12-6-2006 at 09:52
Wow! It is a really amazing and interesting page.
Great work Tacho! chromium - 12-6-2006 at 13:46
Great page. Useful to everyone who wants to build some lab devices.Magpie - 12-6-2006 at 14:47
Very nice Tacho. It is amazing what you can do when you have the right lab assistant. Tacho - 17-6-2006 at 03:00
That is true, Magpie.
---*----
I considered SMDB to be pretty international, but look at the statistics I got over the first week:
I was surprised. I only mentioned my site here at SMDB. Seems like it is a mostly American forum.
I got only a few visits from search engines. Most came from the SMDB link and some from a certain " www.thezonez.us" forum.
Does anybody know this "the zonez" forum? I tried to register but the e-mail they sent me with instructions was blank.turd - 17-6-2006 at 04:48
Quote:
Originally posted by Tacho
I considered SMDB to be pretty international, but look at the statistics I got over the first week:
This looks like awstats with the geoipfree plugin. Just ignore it: when it can't assign an IP-address (and it can't for a lot of them), then it is
assigned to the US. I have a foreign language website with no US users (apart from search engines, which aren't counted anyway) and awstats has the US
leading. chromium - 17-6-2006 at 06:07
I am from EU and i used at least two or three Mb of your bandwith.
muito obrigado
franklyn - 17-6-2006 at 13:28
frogfot - 17-6-2006 at 22:22
I can't see Swedish flag, though I visited your page some time when you've started this thread..
Did we get into EU without me knowing it??
Very interesting site indeed!dr. nick - 18-6-2006 at 01:44
WTG!
Really cool, just what i was looking for !
Say, you do not have plans for an advice for working under some bar of pressure?
Tacho - 18-6-2006 at 13:20
Turd is right. I looked and it's a geoipfree awstats. It probably just shovels to the US account any IP it can't identify.
@frogfot: Sweden is still not there. Just checked. I'm sorry to say that you were either counted as Unknown or as part of the US. BTW, frogfot, your
site is on the links page and your aspirator page is also linked in the vacuum station project.
@franklin: de nada!
@dr.nick: What do you mean under pressure? Which project?
[Edited on 18-6-2006 by Tacho]S.C. Wack - 18-6-2006 at 19:32
Its a little messed up with Firefox, but it sure beats my site.
I'm not a member, but I think that it is safe to say that the zonez is and has been for a while a drug forum, mostly methamphetamine-related.DeAdFX - 21-6-2006 at 17:23
What is the gauge of nichrome wire you used? I have some 40 and 34 gauge and I have a feeling that 120V would cause the improvised mantle to fry.
Is Plaster of paris acceptable? I wasn't able to find any Phosphate bound cement
One more thing...
I was taking a look at my toaster on an idea of making a heating mantle at about the same time I saw your site. I noticed that the toaster has
nichrome wraped around a peice of steel or copper(difficult to tell its old but still works) plate.
My idea was that I take a peice of metal foil and fit it around the base of my 1000mL RB Flask and then place a wire mesh of nichrome wire on the
metal foil. After that I would solder on two wires. I only have aluminum foil around is this idea plausable?
[Edited on 22-6-2006 by DeAdFX]
[Edited on 22-6-2006 by DeAdFX]chromium - 22-6-2006 at 00:35
Quote:
Originally posted by DeAdFX
...I noticed that the toaster has nichrome wraped around a peice of steel or copper(difficult to tell its old but still works) plate.
This surely is not metal plate. Toasters that i have seen use mica sheets to support heating wire. Mica is very usefull material as it can bear high
heat and is good insulator.
[Edited on 22-6-2006 by chromium]Tacho - 22-6-2006 at 04:13
"What is the gauge of nichrome wire you used? I have some 40 and 34 gauge and I have a feeling that 120V would cause the improvised mantle to fry"
If you wish to make your heater dissipate 600W, your current should be 600W/120V=5A, so your resistance should be 120V/5A=24 Ohms.
If you use a very thin wire, it will be short and glow yellow hot. That is not good. I would choose the thickest wire that will accomodate around your
mold. It will be a long coil, but it's temperature will be lower and dissipated over a larger area, with less dilatation. I think it's common sense to
believe the latter will last longer.
"Is Plaster of paris acceptable? I wasn't able to find any Phosphate bound cement"
Maybe. Maybe not. Plaster of paris hardens by hydratation. Above a certain temperarure (140ºC IIRC) it will loose it's hydratation water. Although I
know by experience that plaster of paris is quite resistant to relatively high temperatures, it's dilatation/contraction cycle may cause cracking.
"I was taking a look at my toaster on an idea of making a heating mantle at about the same time I saw your site. I noticed that the toaster has
nichrome wraped around a peice of steel or copper(difficult to tell its old but still works) plate. "
NO WAY! Steel and copper are conductive (much more than NiCr) and you will end up with a short circuit. That is probably mica.
"My idea was that I take a peice of metal foil and fit it around the base of my 1000mL RB Flask and then place a wire mesh of nichrome wire on the
metal foil. After that I would solder on two wires. I only have aluminum foil around is this idea plausable?"
Any metal foil will short circuit the NiCr wire.
I see that you are not familiar with building eletric equipment. This last idea is very dangerous. There is a lot to learn and I think you should take
smaller steps. I spent a lot of time and money on failed experiments. Make sure you have both.
