Indeed, 30% acid does not oxidize iodide to iodine. Using conc. H2SO4 for oxidizing iodide to iodine also is a bad idea, because that reaction is
extremely messy and dirty. If you add conc. H2SO4 to solid KI, then you get a mix of HI, H2S, S8, I2 and SO2. This mix is extremely smelly and looks
dirty brown with yellow specks like bad shit. Isolating the iodine from this dirty 'shit' is not a pleasure at all.
A much better method is to dissolve the KI in 30% H2SO4 and then add dilute H2O2 to this. Try to add a slight excess of H2O2 and do this slowly while
stirring. At a certain point you will see lots of glittering particles of iodine forming in the dark liquid. If you wait long enough, then you see
that the liquid turns lighter and iodine settles at the bottom and another part of the iodine settles near the surface. You can pour the iodine on a
filter (preferrably use a sintered glass filter and if that is not available, then use a dense paper filter). The wet iodine then can be put in a
small beaker to which about three times its own volume of concentrated sulphuric acid is added. When this beaker is heated, then you can see the
iodine melting, forming a nearly black liquid, which remains under the sulphuric acid layer. After this step and solidifying of the iodine, you can
decant the acid liquid (which contains water and left over potassium ions and a small amount of iodine) and add another small portion of conc. H2SO4.
Heating again makes the iodine really clean. After cooling down you can decant the acid again and then rinse with a lot of water. Finally, you end up
with a piece of iodine, which you can wipe dry with a small paper tissue and then break down in parts with a glass rod. You can also keep it as one
piece. The iodine, produced in this way is pure enough for all practical home chemistry experiments and syntheses.
If you want the iodine really pure, then you can heat it and let it sublime on a piece of cold glass. I myself tried this, but I had limited succes, I
stopped the process, because I lost a lot of purple vapor.
The most tricky part of the process described above is the filtering step. You end up with a dark grey mud, which stains everything. Paper becomes
black, skin becomes yellow/brown (like you sometimes see with certain tobacco users) and clothes become brown. That's why the best results are
obtained with a sintered glass filter, from which you can easily scrape the mud. The filter itself is cleaned very easily by rinsing it with a dilute
solution of sodium sulfite or bisulfite.
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