Sciencemadness Discussion Board

The Short Questions Thread (4)

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Amos - 26-9-2014 at 10:15

Quote: Originally posted by gdflp  
When did he say that? I think by "lower concentrations" he meant 20%, though I could be wrong.


I mean, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Depending on the solubility of methyl ethyl ketazine in water you might lose more of your product in the end. You could always add a base to the ammonium hydroxide solution you have and heat it, driving out the ammonia and channeling it into some freezing cold ammonium hydroxide solution that you already have, in order to increase the concentration.

AlphaDecay - 26-9-2014 at 11:00

I've got 2kg of aluminum sulfate laying around, but I have no idea what to do with it, considering that some reactions with it make Al(OH)3, which is awful to deal with... http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=31603#...

gdflp - 26-9-2014 at 17:12

Quote: Originally posted by No Tears Only Dreams Now  
Quote: Originally posted by gdflp  
When did he say that? I think by "lower concentrations" he meant 20%, though I could be wrong.


I mean, I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work. Depending on the solubility of methyl ethyl ketazine in water you might lose more of your product in the end. You could always add a base to the ammonium hydroxide solution you have and heat it, driving out the ammonia and channeling it into some freezing cold ammonium hydroxide solution that you already have, in order to increase the concentration.


Yeah, I was trying to avoid doing that though. I think methyl ethyl ketazine is somewhat soluble in water, but I can't find any references about this.

Jimmymajesty - 3-10-2014 at 07:59

Hi Folks,

What do you think this device did in its good days? I scavenged it from a closed analytical lab. The shiny part at the end looks like gold to me:))

Thanks for your help!


IMG_3157.JPG - 374kBIMG_3158.JPG - 415kBIMG_3162.JPG - 418kB

alexleyenda - 3-10-2014 at 11:05

It looks a bit like a pH probe electrode to me, though it seems a bit too complicated to be just a ph probe. Maybe someone else will have a more convincing answer than me :p

[Edited on 3-10-2014 by alexleyenda]

Jimmymajesty - 3-10-2014 at 12:09

I do not think that it was used in liquid, rather measure the moisture content of some gas somehow, the small orange bulb is probably for temperature measurement, but I can only guess. The metal on some other metallish surface reminds me of the electrical element of rectifier.

AlphaDecay - 6-10-2014 at 14:21

Any ideas for a easy aquiring/homemade selective membrane for a potassium chloride electrolytic cell to make potassium hydroxide? I've tried gelatin but it came off from the PVC pipe that connects the two half-cells.

[Edited on 6-10-2014 by AlphaDecay]

[Edited on 6-10-2014 by AlphaDecay]

elementcollector1 - 6-10-2014 at 14:25

Quote: Originally posted by AlphaDecay  
Any ideas for a easy aquiring/homemade selective membrane for a potassium chloride electrolytic cell to make potassium hydroxide? I've tried gelatin but it came off from the PVC pipe that connects the two half-cells.

There should be more than a few topics on this subject - some of them started by me, if I recall. Ceramic was mentioned.

bismuthate - 8-10-2014 at 13:57

Why does ATP not spontaneously react with water?

Pyrovus - 9-10-2014 at 03:15

It does. It's why it's synthesised as needed, rather than stockpiled in the cell, because it doesn't hang around for very long.

[Edited on 9-10-2014 by Pyrovus]

gdflp - 13-10-2014 at 10:14

Forgive me if this is a stupid question but, would an aromatic aldehyde be sufficiently acidic to react with a phenol to produce a ketone? Specifically I'm wondering if p-dimethylaminobenzaldehyde will react with p-dimethylaminophenol to yield Michler's Ketone?

DraconicAcid - 13-10-2014 at 10:39

Aldehydes aren't acidic, but you don't want an acid, you want an oxidizing agent. Aldehydes aren't very good oxidizing agents, so I'd guess "no".

gdflp - 13-10-2014 at 10:52

Would the aldehyde be an oxidizing agent? I was hoping a reaction like the following would happen. Maybe the equilibrium could be driven by the addition of sulfuric acid? (Sorry about the terrible picture)

noname01.jpg - 10kB

DraconicAcid - 13-10-2014 at 11:08

If you wanted this to happen, you'd have to use an aryl halide instead of a phenol, convert it to a Grignard, then react that with the aldehyde.

bismuthate - 13-10-2014 at 12:22

So for amphoteric hydroxides like Cr and Cu what would happen if you attempted to react them with NaOH? Would they form Chromate/chromite or cuprate and release ammonia or what would happen?

DraconicAcid - 13-10-2014 at 13:07

Quote: Originally posted by bismuthate  
So for amphoteric hydroxides like Cr and Cu what would happen if you attempted to react them with NaOH? Would they form Chromate/chromite or cuprate and release ammonia or what would happen?


Cr(OH)3 will react with hydroxide ion to give the soluble Cr(OH)4- ion (which can be oxidized to chromate). Zinc, lead, and aluminum hydroxides will similarly dissolve in excess hydroxide, but copper hydroxide is barely amphoteric- you may get a bit of blue in the solution, but you won't dissolve a significant amount of it without an outrageous concentration of base.

bismuthate - 13-10-2014 at 13:08

Yes but what would happen if I tried to dissolve the ammonia complexes of the hydroxides in base?

DraconicAcid - 13-10-2014 at 13:23

Quote: Originally posted by bismuthate  
Yes but what would happen if I tried to dissolve the ammonia complexes of the hydroxides in base?


Tetramminecopper(II) ion is stable towards hydroxide ion (I have a book somewhere that discusses the preparation of tetramminecopper(II) hydroxide and its use in dissolving cellulose). The chromium complex may slowly react with hydroxide to replace the ammonia ligands (Cr(III) complexes are notoriously slow to replace their ligands, but strong base will catalyze the reaction through deprotonation of the amine ligands).

SHADYCHASE54 - 15-10-2014 at 20:05

Hello all, recently I decided to convert 10gr. of 30% palladium hydroxide on carbon to palladium II chloride dihydrate. I achieved
this by digestion of said catalyst with dilute HCl I am left with, after filtration and flash distillation, a maroon powder with a strong hydrochloric fragrance. my question is does anyone have a suggestion of the best solvent a or duel solvent for recrystalization? Any knowledgable suggestion would be appreciated.

DrMario - 20-10-2014 at 08:57

Sorry if I am asking a question before the one above had been answered - I waited until now, but I kind of need to know somewhat urgently: can you suggest a method for passivating nickel? I know nickel is corrosion resistant, so "passivation" in this case is not meant as a way to protect the nickel part, but to actually protect the chemicals in contact with nickel from its catalytic activity. These chemicals will be dissolved in a mixture of polar solvents (including water).

One idea I had was treating nickel with oxalic acid. Nickel oxalate seems mostly insoluble in water and other polar solvents, and it is not, as far as I know, a common catalyst, so few or no reaction would be catalyzed by it. Problem is, this layer is probably thin and not very resistant to wear.

Please suggest some better passivation materials. I'm thankful for any idea.

Metacelsus - 20-10-2014 at 09:00

Is your solution acidic or basic?

Do you have to use nickel? Why not glass?

DrMario - 20-10-2014 at 09:12

Quote: Originally posted by Cheddite Cheese  
Is your solution acidic or basic?

Do you have to use nickel? Why not glass?


Ph will be no less than 4 and no greater than 8... I think. I am not sure about the upper threshold, but the solution is likely to be mildly acidic.

Can't be glass because it has to be ferromagnetic. Nickel seemed OK, since it usually doesn't corrode easily, but, as I said, it might catalyze some reactions.

I must note that I can, if push come to shove, deposit a thin layer of silicon oxide over the nickel by chemical vapor deposition, but I'd rather not use that high-tech solution, if I don't have to. Besides, I am not sure how good is CVD SiO2 adhesion to nickel.

HeYBrO - 23-10-2014 at 02:36

I just made some copper "asprinate" and i can't find much info regarding its toxicity(msds)? Its not that dangerous is it? (it is a potential medicine). Just curious.

gdflp - 23-10-2014 at 05:16

This page lists an LD50. I don't think it has many other hazards, I'm guessing the toxicity will be very similar to that of another insoluble copper compound such as copper carbonate.

HeYBrO - 23-10-2014 at 12:36

Quote: Originally posted by gdflp  
This page lists an LD50. I don't think it has many other hazards, I'm guessing the toxicity will be very similar to that of another insoluble copper compound such as copper carbonate.

Thanks! I just checked and it seems to be less toxic than aspirin itself in rats. Interesting!

DrMario - 25-10-2014 at 13:36

This should be really short and easy: I prepared a few mL of Lugol's solution in a test tube, and then added a few mg of KOH in the form of small pellets. The yellow color of iodine in the Lugol's solution disappeared. Did I make potassium hypoiodite (KOI)?

If yes, can anyone tell me any peculiar property of KOI? Is it similar to sodium hypochlorite in its oxidizing strength?

Metacelsus - 25-10-2014 at 14:08

It's probably potassium iodide and potassium iodate (through disproportionation).

DrMario - 25-10-2014 at 14:34

Quote: Originally posted by Cheddite Cheese  
It's probably potassium iodide and potassium iodate (through disproportionation).


Are you saying that I didn't make potassium hypoiodite? That was the question I was asking.

Metacelsus - 25-10-2014 at 15:33

You probably didn't.

DrMario - 25-10-2014 at 15:35

Quote: Originally posted by Cheddite Cheese  
You probably didn't.


I very much appreciate your direct answer.

Jylliana - 3-11-2014 at 05:06

Can Sulphur (S8) in water be flushed down the drain or should it be stored and given to a special waste processing facility?

gdflp - 3-11-2014 at 05:35

Elemental sulfur should be fine to flush down the drain. It is used in large amounts as a fertilizer for plants mixed with some bentonite clay.

woelen - 3-11-2014 at 05:38

It should not be flushed down the drain (it remains solid and does not dissolve and may clog your tubing). It can be put as solid waste in normal household waste. Sulphur is only marginally toxic and when the waste is burned, it produces SO2, which is formed anyway from other waste and will be scrubbed before any waste gas is released into the air.

Chemosynthesis - 3-11-2014 at 05:55

Quote: Originally posted by Jylliana  
Can Sulphur (S8) in water be flushed down the drain or should it be stored and given to a special waste processing facility?


Not sure if there are local regulations, but sulfur doesn't violate the clean water act... however, due to it not being water soluble, I would spread it on your lawn as garden sulfur.
http://avogadro.chem.iastate.edu/MSDS/sulfur.htm

DubaiAmateurRocketry - 3-11-2014 at 20:02

when I referred P2O5 or P4O10 as phosphorus pentoxide my professor marked it as wrong however its actually one of the most used name for this chemical, shall i argue with him?

DrMario - 3-11-2014 at 20:34

Yes, argue with him by pointing him to:
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jo00987a028
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/ja00948a050
http://scitation.aip.org/content/aip/journal/jap/34/8/10.106...
or even
http://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/ja01275a030
(1938)

There's a f###ton of peer-reviewed articles where "phosphorus pentoxide" is used to denote P2O5 as well as P4O10.

DrMario - 3-11-2014 at 20:40

And if he's the "corporations are always right"-kind-of-guy, then point him at
http://www.sigmaaldrich.com/catalog/product/sial/214701?lang...
http://www.sandhya-group.com/pdf/phosphoruspentoxide-P2O5.pd...
http://datasheets.scbt.com/sc-203187.pdf
http://www.wuzhouchem.com/cataloged/inor/phosphorus_pentoxid...

And for the grand finale:
http://www.phosphoruspentoxide.net/


I Like Dots - 9-11-2014 at 09:47

Is it possible to produce nitrate salts through electrolysis of a ammonium nitrate solution?
For example, using copper electrodes to produce copper nitrate?

I read the thread Electrolysis of Nitrates
Quote: Originally posted by hodges  
...I've also heard that it is possible to get nitrates (with small yield) by electrolysing ammonium salts...


My idea was to use some silver/copper coins as anodes, then precipitate the silver with copper sheet.

Metacelsus - 9-11-2014 at 11:11

You might end up forming tetraamine copper nitrate, which is explosive. Be careful.

[Edited on 9-11-2014 by Cheddite Cheese]

DutchChemistryBox - 10-11-2014 at 11:28

Hello,

I'm looking to build a recirculating cooling pump to prevent water waste.
I want to add glycol to the coolant, so I can lower the temperature below zero.

I also want to add a valve so I can switch to my vacuum aspirator. But I've no idea how it will perform when glycol is added to the working fluid.

Has anybody an idea what it will do to my vacuum?

[Edited on 10-11-2014 by DutchChemistryBox]

gdflp - 10-11-2014 at 12:18

This and this might be useful. You can use Raoult's law to calculate the vapor pressure of the desired mixture of glycerin and water. This vapor pressure will be lower than that of pure water and thus, the vacuum produced will be weaker, though it may not be significantly weaker depending on the amount of glycerin present.

Zn amalgam questions

Metacelsus - 21-11-2014 at 09:53

I want to prepare a Zn amalgam for a reduction of a ketone to an alkane. Most references call for reacting Zn metal with an Hg(ii) salt, usually mercuric chloride. I have elemental mercury, but no salts as yet.
Could I use mercurous nitrate (the easiest salt for me to make)?
Better yet, could I just use Hg metal?
How much Hg do I need to activate the Zn?

After searching more, I found that mercurous nitrate works. I've also found references of Al amalgams made with Hg metal. However, I'm still not sure about Zn.

[Edited on 21-11-2014 by Cheddite Cheese]

Brain&Force - 21-11-2014 at 09:55

I think you can just dissolve zinc into mercury, if I'm not mistaken.

[edit] happy 210 posts, me!

[Edited on 22.11.2014 by Brain&Force]

Metacelsus - 21-11-2014 at 10:05

The mercury is just to activate the zinc; dissolving it would be overkill.

DraconicAcid - 21-11-2014 at 10:07

I'm sure that the mercury will work, and you won't need much. The mercury salts are generally more convenient, because it allows a very small amount of the mercury to be deposited evenly over the surface of the zinc, whereas elemental mercury won't spread out so much.

xfusion44 - 21-11-2014 at 22:36

Please someone help me with this one:

How would I make acetamide from acetonitrile and water? Is it possible? If it is, what are conditions? I've tried to just mix them together, but nothing seemed to happen - would I need to boil off water from this mixture to precipitate acetamide?

Thanks!

greenlight - 21-11-2014 at 23:25

I think you need a catalyst to aid the reaction.
Here's a link to a patent using Zinc oxide as a catalyst:

http://www.google.com/patents/US3040095

Also, here's an old thread that has a synthesis of Acetamide from Ethyl acetate and Ammonia:

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=23491

xfusion44 - 22-11-2014 at 02:24

Quote: Originally posted by greenlight  
I think you need a catalyst to aid the reaction.
Here's a link to a patent using Zinc oxide as a catalyst:

http://www.google.com/patents/US3040095

Also, here's an old thread that has a synthesis of Acetamide from Ethyl acetate and Ammonia:

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=23491


Thanks :)

But I'm still worried, as in the first link, they also mention heat and very high pressure - is that really necessary (high pressure)?

Thanks!

greenlight - 22-11-2014 at 03:15

On looking at the patent a second time it does appear to be a bit more complicated than the backyard lab unless you have a heating source to heat a vessel to 250 Degrees Celcius and a vessel or stainless steel "bomb" capable of handling 1000 psi pressure as it says here:

"The acetonitrile, water and zinc acetate are mixed in ice a closed vessel and heated to a temperature of 250 C., preferably 240 C. As the heating proceeds, the pressure rises. During the initial stages of the reaction, the pressure may reach as high as 1,000 p.s.i.g., preferably about 700 p.s.i.g. Thereafter, as the reaction proceeds, the pressure falls due to the formation of acetamide which has a lower vapor pressure than acetonitrile and hence as acetamide is formed, the pressure drops. The pressure at the conclusion of the reaction is usually from 40 to 50 p.s.i.g. "

I think the best way to go would be to obtain some Ethyl acetate and use the method posted in the thread link by Polesch which uses 9% Ammonia as it looks like less of a headache. The Ethyl acetate can be synthesized and the 9% Ammonia should be easy to get.

I have read that ethyl acetate is the primary solvent in non-acetone nail-polish remover but a distillation would be necessary.
Otherwise, here is a two links to a method of making Ethyl acetate from concentrated Sulphuric acid, ethanol and glacial Acetic acid:

https://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodium/chemistry/ethyl.aceta...

https://sites.google.com/site/mutludemirel/organic-chemistry...

There is also a video on youtube here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFxZ0NircIk

Hope that helps.




[Edited on 22-11-2014 by greenlight]

bismuthate - 22-11-2014 at 04:32

Why are there hardly any brown solutions?

Metacelsus - 22-11-2014 at 05:51

You mean brown solutions of pure compounds? In organic chemistry, brown solutions are commonplace, but generally a sign of impurities.

It's probably because brown is composed of many other colors, so it requires lots of different absorption frequencies.

xfusion44 - 22-11-2014 at 15:53

Quote: Originally posted by greenlight  
On looking at the patent a second time it does appear to be a bit more complicated than the backyard lab unless you have a heating source to heat a vessel to 250 Degrees Celcius and a vessel or stainless steel "bomb" capable of handling 1000 psi pressure as it says here:

"The acetonitrile, water and zinc acetate are mixed in ice a closed vessel and heated to a temperature of 250 C., preferably 240 C. As the heating proceeds, the pressure rises. During the initial stages of the reaction, the pressure may reach as high as 1,000 p.s.i.g., preferably about 700 p.s.i.g. Thereafter, as the reaction proceeds, the pressure falls due to the formation of acetamide which has a lower vapor pressure than acetonitrile and hence as acetamide is formed, the pressure drops. The pressure at the conclusion of the reaction is usually from 40 to 50 p.s.i.g. "

I think the best way to go would be to obtain some Ethyl acetate and use the method posted in the thread link by Polesch which uses 9% Ammonia as it looks like less of a headache. The Ethyl acetate can be synthesized and the 9% Ammonia should be easy to get.

I have read that ethyl acetate is the primary solvent in non-acetone nail-polish remover but a distillation would be necessary.
Otherwise, here is a two links to a method of making Ethyl acetate from concentrated Sulphuric acid, ethanol and glacial Acetic acid:

https://www.erowid.org/archive/rhodium/chemistry/ethyl.aceta...

https://sites.google.com/site/mutludemirel/organic-chemistry...

There is also a video on youtube here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFxZ0NircIk

Hope that helps.




[Edited on 22-11-2014 by greenlight]


Thanks, sure it helps ;)

I have no "bomb", that would hold 1000psi/70bar :D But maybe I could try the way you've mentioned, I have very small amounts of conc. H2SO4 (only few milliliters), so making it wouldn't be an option, but I could try finding non-acetone nail polish remover, but how do I know that it has only ethyl acetate and not acetone or other solvents? Do you think it should be written on the bottle - I have small bottle of nail polish remover, but it says it does contain acetone, ethanol and a load of other solvents (this seems to be a problem) :D

Here is a picture of the bottle:



IMG_20141123_004319.jpg - 59kB

PS: even if I find NPR with ethyl acetate - there may be other additional solvents with lower BP than ethyl acetate, so there could be distillation problems, or not?

Thanks :)

[Edited on 22-11-2014 by xfusion44]

greenlight - 22-11-2014 at 18:28

You need the Acetone free nail polish remover,it should say it on the bottle. It should have the ingredients written on the bottle, or look up the product name's Material Safety Data Sheet.
I believe the Acetone free brands should have Ethyl acetate, Ethanol and fragrance in them. Here is an old thread about extracting Ethyl acetate from non Acetone nail polish remover by distillation:

http://www.sciencemadness.org/talk/viewthread.php?tid=17401

Ethyl acetate (77.1.C) is very close boiling point wise to Ethanol (78.37 .C) which makes this difficult. You could use a fractioning (vigreux) column if you have one otherwise just go for it and see what you get.

If this fails, hunt down some Sulphuric acid, hardware store drain cleaners, battery top-up solution (read labels), and boil this down to concentration and try the actual synthesis






[Edited on 23-11-2014 by greenlight]

xfusion44 - 22-11-2014 at 20:26

Thanks very much :)

Unfortunately I don't have fractionating column :-/

I will try to get non-acetone polish remover ASAP and will distill it and see what happens. Hopefully I'll be able to maintain the temperature under 78°C, althouhg some of ethanol may come with EtOAc too, I think it's worth a try. Do you think that ethanol would be a problem in this reaction? I looked up on internet and found out that ethylamine could form when ammonia is mixed with ethanol, but only at high temperatures (200°C) and with catalyst, so maybe it won't be a problem?

Also, do you think, that it would work fine if I'd use pure NH3 instead of solution? I could make it with NH4Cl + NaOH + H2O, although I don't know if that is effective way, to produce enough ammonia gas?

Thanks again :)

[Edited on 23-11-2014 by xfusion44]

greenlight - 23-11-2014 at 00:14

It could lower the final yield of the Acetamide but I don't think it would cause too much of a problem. I would just take the distillation slow as I could and not let the temp go above 78.C.

On the Acetamide synthesis thread from this site I linked before, Polesch uses 9% Ammonia but says two posts down that he uses a saturated solution of ammonia in ice cold water and gets much better yields.
I would either use Ammonia solution from the shop or dissolve the ammonia gas into water until saturated and use that instead of just pumping the gas straight in on its own.
The better you run the distillation the more pure your distillate should be. I would definitely suggest buying a fractioning column if you can't get it right though.

xfusion44 - 23-11-2014 at 01:56

I would need a quick answer - can butyl acetate be used instead of ethyl acetate? Im in supermarket...

greenlight - 23-11-2014 at 02:11

I don't think you can substitute it, you need the Ethyl acetate.

xfusion44 - 23-11-2014 at 02:12

Anyway, I bought the one with butyl acetate, they didn't have anything other and drugstore was closed, hopefully butyl a. can be used, otherwise I'm going tomorrow again to see, if the drugstore has it...

xfusion44 - 23-11-2014 at 02:13

Ok, then I will go tomorrow again. I'll read your previous answer as soon as I get home.

greenlight - 23-11-2014 at 02:13

Yeah you can give it a go. What did you buy the Butyl acetate as, was it nail polish remover?

I think you will need the Ethyl acetate non acetone nail polish remover though.

[Edited on 23-11-2014 by greenlight]

[Edited on 23-11-2014 by greenlight]

arkoma - 23-11-2014 at 02:39

Here in the states "MEK substitute" at home depot=ethyl acetate. Five bucks a quart.

xfusion44 - 23-11-2014 at 02:44

@greenlight

Damn :-/ I probably bought useless nail polish remover... At first I saw that it said on the bottle butyl acetate and thought "that's it!" Then I noticed, when I checked again that I was thinking wrong, because I thought it was ethyl acetate... Then I bought it and you said I could give it a try, and now, when I'm at home I noticed that on the end of text it says acetone too :( Maybe I can still get only butyl acetate from it by careful distillation, but even then, the question remains: will it work with butyl a.?...

Thanks for previous question, I'll see, what I can do...

When you say non acetone NPR, do you mean that acetone would react with ammonia to form other byproduct?

It's funny that all of the time, when we were mentioning not to go above 78°C, I thought that's for preventing ethanol from distilling, but I remembered that it's the acetone that has 78°C boiling point - so if I'd have non acetone NPR I wouldn't need to worry about going above 78°C, I think? Were we both confused?

Thanks :)

[Edited on 23-11-2014 by xfusion44]

xfusion44 - 23-11-2014 at 02:54

Quote: Originally posted by arkoma  
Here in the states "MEK substitute" at home depot=ethyl acetate. Five bucks a quart.


I found (it doesn't even say how much), but I think it's 1 liter ethyl acetate for 8EUR - about 10USD on one of our online shops, I think that isn't cheap for 1l EA, but if I don't find anything other, I may order it from there...

greenlight - 23-11-2014 at 03:32

I said to distill non-Acetone nail polish remover because they substitute the acetone with Ethyl acetate, the product you need to make Acetamide. It may be harder to find the acetone free polish than the normal acetone brand.
I did mean not to go over 78.C because the non Acetone nail polish remover also has Ethanol in it which has a boiling point close to Ethyl acetate and you want to try and distill Ethyl actetate only.
Acetone has a boiling point of 56.C. Sorry if i caused confusion.
I will see if I can find any literature about whether Butyl acetate can be substituted.
If you can't find it as the MEK substitute, Ethyl acetate is on ebay as "insect collecting fluid" and also from standard chem suppliers on there.



[Edited on 23-11-2014 by greenlight]

xfusion44 - 23-11-2014 at 11:30

Quote: Originally posted by greenlight  
I said to distill non-Acetone nail polish remover because they substitute the acetone with Ethyl acetate, the product you need to make Acetamide. It may be harder to find the acetone free polish than the normal acetone brand.
I did mean not to go over 78.C because the non Acetone nail polish remover also has Ethanol in it which has a boiling point close to Ethyl acetate and you want to try and distill Ethyl actetate only.
Acetone has a boiling point of 56.C. Sorry if i caused confusion.
I will see if I can find any literature about whether Butyl acetate can be substituted.
If you can't find it as the MEK substitute, Ethyl acetate is on ebay as "insect collecting fluid" and also from standard chem suppliers on there.



[Edited on 23-11-2014 by greenlight]


Yeah, only I was confused, not we :D I figured that out later...

However, distillation is done!

My nail polish remover contains: butyl acetate, ethanol, acetone, butyl stearate and ricinus communis oil (castor oil).

Here are all ingredients, sorted by boiling point:

Acetone: 56°C
Ethanol: 78°C
Butyl acetate: 126°C
Butyl stearate: 220°C
Castor oil: 313°C

First, I used water boiling bath to distill all of the acetone and ethanol. Then I cleaned condenser and put all of the acetone/ethanol mixture in the bottle and cleaned the beaker. I repeated the process, but without water bath - just directly on hotplate. I left it distilling for up to 196°C and it still boiled a little, but the boiling drastically slowed down at about 150 or 160°C. That way I've collected butyl acetate (I could tell by smell that it wasn't acetone or ethanol). At the end, I was left with castor oil and butyl stearate, which is just a fragrance, so it's probably mainly just castor oil, that was left and maybe a bit of butyl acetate.

On the picture below, there are products of distillation.

In the first bottle, there is acetone/ethanol mixture (about 40ml).
In the beaker, I don't know what it really is (10ml), but it was collected between 100°C and 124°C - probably there was still ethanol left, or something, is it water? But I don't know why it didn't evaporate before at 100°C? (I started collecting butyl acetate at 124°C although BP is 126°C).
In the second bottle there's a final product, butyl acetate (about 35ml).
And in the erlenmeyer flask, there's the castor oil, butyl stearate and a little amount of butyl acetate (15ml). I used 100ml of nail polish remover.


The next thing to do is getting some ammonium hydroxide or making it and then hopefully after mixing it with butyl acetate, the reaction will take place and make some acetamide :D But that's unfortunately maybe not gonna happen :-/

Thanks for helping :)

IMG_20141123_193617.jpg - 106kB

[Edited on 23-11-2014 by xfusion44]

PS: castor oil has a nice smell of peanut or walnut ;)

[Edited on 23-11-2014 by xfusion44]

greenlight - 23-11-2014 at 16:39

Well done.
I have been looking around and I'm pretty sure the Butyl acetate is a no-go in the production of Acetamide.
At least you have some experience distilling nail polish remover now for when you find an Acetone-free brand which contains Ethyl acetate.

xfusion44 - 23-11-2014 at 21:42

Thanks for support ;)

I agree that it probably won't work, so today I'll go to see if I can find ethyl acetate nail polish remover anywhere.

Thanks again, when I find something I'll be back ;)

xfusion44 - 24-11-2014 at 08:50

Quote: Originally posted by greenlight  
Well done.
I have been looking around and I'm pretty sure the Butyl acetate is a no-go in the production of Acetamide.
At least you have some experience distilling nail polish remover now for when you find an Acetone-free brand which contains Ethyl acetate.


Finally I've got the right thing ;)

I'll distill it when I'll have some time. Do you thing that the ethanol will be a problem?

However, here it is, acetone free NPR, with ethyl acetate:



IMG_20141124_172218.jpg - 126kB

greenlight - 24-11-2014 at 16:54

Put it in the distillation apparatus and collect the different fractions at different temperature ranges like you did the last bottle and take it slow and see what you get. The boiling points are as follows:

Ethyl acetate = 77.1.C
Denatured alcohol = 78.3.C
Water = 100.C

The Ethyl acetate and Ethanol are very close together again so a fraction column would be recommended but you do not have one. If you have a spare condenser you could attach it between the boiling flask and still head and pack it with broken glass to slow the vapors.
I think the Ethyl acetate may form and azeotrope with the Ethanol because of the very close boiling points and maybe even the water so they may come over together regardless. :mad:
If you get an azeotrope, they can be separated by extractive distillation with another solvent which doesn't look too difficult. I found this on a patent:
"A method for recovering ethyl acetate from a mixture of ethyl acetate and ethanol which comprises distilling a mixture of ethyl acetate and ethanol in the presence of an azeotrope forming agent, recovering the ethyl acetate and the azeotrope forming agent as overhead product and obtaining the ethanol as bottoms product, wherein said azeotrope forming agent consists of one material selected from the group consisting of methyl formate, 2,2-dimethyl butane, hexane, cyclopentane, 2,2,4-trimethylpentane, t-butyl methyl ether, petroleum ether, dimethoxymethane and 4-methyl-2-pentanone."

And heres a link to another patent discussing the separation of Ethyl acetate and Ethanol by distillation with Methanol:

http://www.google.com/patents/US2649407

DistractionGrating - 24-11-2014 at 23:16

OK, this may not be a chemistry question, per se, but it does involve the physical properties of a substance, and so, please indulge me, if you will. Some people assert that there are ways to somehow cut or grind holes in tempered glass without it shattering. Is this possible? If so, how?

greenlight - 25-11-2014 at 01:20

Distractiongrating, although not a chemistry question it can be cut and drilled if done the right way with a diamond bit and lubrication.
I attached a link below on how to drill a hole in tempered glass:

http://www.ehow.com/how_6813902_drill-hole-tempered-glass.ht...

DistractionGrating - 25-11-2014 at 15:09

Greenlight, The exact same source contains contradictory information that says glass must be drilled before tempering, and that it cannot be drilled afterwards: http://www.ehow.com/facts_7714426_can-drill-hole-tempered-gl... I'm confused.

DrMario - 25-11-2014 at 17:22

Quote: Originally posted by DistractionGrating  
OK, this may not be a chemistry question, per se, but it does involve the physical properties of a substance, and so, please indulge me, if you will. Some people assert that there are ways to somehow cut or grind holes in tempered glass without it shattering. Is this possible? If so, how?


We looked at this problem quite a bit, a couple of years ago, and the only safe way to "drill" holes in any sort of glass, is by sandblasting. The sandblasting apparatus we're talking about is capable of making sub-mm diameter holes in glass plates, but we decided it's too expensive, and now we're finally looking at a picosecond laser ablation system instead, which is more versatile.

greenlight - 25-11-2014 at 17:59

Yes, that is unusual how the same site contradicts itself.
The link says it is inadvisable because there is a high chance the glass will shatter and the diamond bit can get damaged, but if you have spare sheets of glass you could give it a shot cause there is a small chance it may not shatter.
Otherwise, I think the only way to do it safely is what is suggested by DrMario, or maybe a water jet.





[Edited on 26-11-2014 by greenlight]

xfusion44 - 26-11-2014 at 22:39

Quote: Originally posted by greenlight  
Put it in the distillation apparatus and collect the different fractions at different temperature ranges like you did the last bottle and take it slow and see what you get. The boiling points are as follows:

Ethyl acetate = 77.1.C
Denatured alcohol = 78.3.C
Water = 100.C

The Ethyl acetate and Ethanol are very close together again so a fraction column would be recommended but you do not have one. If you have a spare condenser you could attach it between the boiling flask and still head and pack it with broken glass to slow the vapors.
I think the Ethyl acetate may form and azeotrope with the Ethanol because of the very close boiling points and maybe even the water so they may come over together regardless. :mad:
If you get an azeotrope, they can be separated by extractive distillation with another solvent which doesn't look too difficult. I found this on a patent:
"A method for recovering ethyl acetate from a mixture of ethyl acetate and ethanol which comprises distilling a mixture of ethyl acetate and ethanol in the presence of an azeotrope forming agent, recovering the ethyl acetate and the azeotrope forming agent as overhead product and obtaining the ethanol as bottoms product, wherein said azeotrope forming agent consists of one material selected from the group consisting of methyl formate, 2,2-dimethyl butane, hexane, cyclopentane, 2,2,4-trimethylpentane, t-butyl methyl ether, petroleum ether, dimethoxymethane and 4-methyl-2-pentanone."

And heres a link to another patent discussing the separation of Ethyl acetate and Ethanol by distillation with Methanol:

http://www.google.com/patents/US2649407


Thanks for that :)

Hopefully I'll have some time today for this distillation, otherwise I'll do it ASAP.

I'll be back ;)

Thanks :)

xfusion44 - 28-11-2014 at 05:53

@greenlight

I've bought 25% ammonia solution and ethyl acetate - I will still try to get EtOAc from NPR, but just in case ;)

Amos - 28-11-2014 at 19:09

There's a white crystalline powder in an unmarked container in my lab; I think it might be anhydrous sodium acetate if memory serves; there's nothing dangerous that it could be, though.

How can I test to see if it's sodium acetate or not? I tried adding acid and trying to detect the smell of acetic acid, but the odor was too ambiguous. I can already tell that it's hygroscopic, as it clumps up as soon as a bit of water is added.

DraconicAcid - 28-11-2014 at 19:48

You can add a non-volatile acid and heat it up- the vinegar smell should be more obvious. A flame test should tell you if it's sodium acetate. A solution of sodium acetate added to a solution of copper(II) sulphate will give a slightly more intense blue without giving a precipitate.

xfusion44 - 29-11-2014 at 08:55

I have a problem: how do I know the density of dissolved gas in water (ammonia)? I calculated, that there is 342,466 liters of gas in one kilogram of 25 percent w/w ammonia and I would like to know the volume of one kilogram of 25 percent w/w ammonia solution, but I can't just take usual density of ammonia into account, since the volume of one kilo 25percent ammonia would be above 343 liters. Please help :-/

Thanks! :)

PS: I know from wiki, that the volume of 1kg of 25 ammonia is about 1,01l, but there must be a way to calculate that, right? For example: how do you know, that 342.5l of ammonia gas is just about 260ml when dissolved in water? Or is it actually ammonium hydroxide, and there is no actual gas dissolved?

[Edited on 29-11-2014 by xfusion44]

greenlight - 30-11-2014 at 17:19

Are you making your own Ammonia solution by bubbling Ammonia gas into water or did you buy store brought.
If it is dilute Ammonia it will be 10-15% by weight and contain 48-95g/L or if concentrated it will be 25%. The 25% solution has a density of 0.907 g/cm3 and should have 226g/L Ammonia.
"Ammonia solutions decrease in density as the concentration of dissolved ammonia increases, the density of a saturated solution is 0.88 g/ml and contains 35% ammonia by mass, 308 g/lw/v, (308 grams of ammonia per litre of solution)."

Ammonium hydroxide is Ammonia gas dissolved in water, it is the same thing as Ammonia solution just a different name.


DraconicAcid - 30-11-2014 at 18:45

Some people will refer to aqueous ammonia as "ammonium hydroxide", but that's incorrect, as the majority of the ammonia is unionized.

j_sum1 - 30-11-2014 at 18:53

True. But in applications where ammonia solution is being used for its alkaline properties it makes sense to emphasise the "hydroxide" especially since the equilibrium dictates that it will be replaced as it is being used.

DraconicAcid - 30-11-2014 at 20:12

Quote: Originally posted by j_sum1  
True. But in applications where ammonia solution is being used for its alkaline properties it makes sense to emphasise the "hydroxide" especially since the equilibrium dictates that it will be replaced as it is being used.


Not really, because the acid you're reacting it with will react faster with the ammonia than the minimal hydroxide ion in solution, because the concentration's a lot higher.

j_sum1 - 30-11-2014 at 20:25

Again correct.
But nomenclature is communicating. If your purpose is to communicate that OH- ions are available in the solution (I am thinking of beginning chemistry students) then calling it by both names emphasises the point. It also opens up the discussion of exactly how much of the ammonia hydrolyses in solution, which is precisely the conversation you want to have.

I guess my point is that in the context of my work I have never had a problem with "ammonium hydroxide" nomenclature and can see some benefit to it.

xfusion44 - 1-12-2014 at 01:14

@greenlight

No, I was making acetamide with it, I bought 25 ammonia or NH4OH, whatever is correct to say... I wanted to calculate how much of each I mix...

However, I failed! First, I tried with my own EtOAc and 25 ammonia and 3h mixing, until all has reacted... After evaporation, there was nothig left. Again, with pure EtOAc and 5h mixing, after evaporation, there was nothing left :( I was expecting some crystals of acetamide :-/ Reaction mixture turned cloudy when it was on warm place, so I thought that some crystals are forming, but nothing...

Don't know, what else to do :(

Polesch on this forum didn't have problems, even with 9 percent ammonia, but I have with 25.

Also, I noticed, that during mixing, half of liquid was gone, but I don't know, how...

Thanks

[Edited on 1-12-2014 by xfusion44]

greenlight - 1-12-2014 at 03:28

Sorry to hear it's not working out for you Xfusion.
Did the solution form two separate layers like Polesch's when you mixed the Ethyl acetate with the Ammonia solution and then turn into one.
Maybe the reaction takes much longer to take place, you could try again and leave it on stir for 24 hours on a magnetic stirrer like Polesch did before evaporating. Polesch also left it to sit in the evap dish for three days before evaporating with heat if you have the time.

I also found this Acetamide synthesis for you from Ammonmia and Ethyl acetate with pictures.

http://lulelaboratory.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/preparation-of...

I think the 24 hour wait is needed for the Acetamide to form because both Polesch's and the linked synth have the waiting period.


[Edited on 1-12-2014 by greenlight]

xfusion44 - 2-12-2014 at 18:57

Yes, it did form two layers, which were then turned into one, after stirring for 5 hours.

Maybe it does take longer, but I'm afraid, that all of the solution will evaporate during stirring, because I've lost more than a half of it last time, during stirring and I still don't know why? I was stirring it on a cold place outside...

I'll check the link, when I'll have some time.

Thanks :)

forgottenpassword - 3-12-2014 at 06:00

Put some cling-film over the top, or something; and reduce your stirring rate. Try doing the reaction in a conical flask rather than a beaker; that should help to prevent losses due to evaporation.

Jylliana - 4-12-2014 at 06:53

Does oxygen have a smell?
When I let H2O2 decompose at an increased rate, it smells awful... I wonder what it is I smell.
It both smelt the same with potassium permanganate as a catalyst, and powdered lead as a catalyst.

woelen - 4-12-2014 at 07:28

I know exactly what you mean. The smell actually is quite acrid.
What you smell is H2O2, not oxygen. The H2O2 comes into the air in the form of very small droplets, which are formed, due to the bubbling of the liquid. These tiny droplets evaporate and give vapor of H2O2.

This also demonstrates how easily material from an aqueous solution can become airborne. For this reason, I always am very careful with bubbling solutions which contain highly toxic material dissolved. E.g. I would never add a carbonate or magnesium to an acidic solution, containing mercury salts. The bubbles of CO2 or H2 then take with them tiny droplets of mercury-containing liquid which becomes airborne. A good safety measure in such experiments is to cover the test tube with a piece of paper tissue, or loosely push some wadding in the open end of the test tube. The produced gas easily moves along the paper tissue or wadding, but the droplets remain behind.

forgottenpassword - 4-12-2014 at 07:30

Evidently the liberated oxygen volatilizes some hydrogen peroxide. So what you are smelling is the "slightly sharp" (according to wikipedia) smell of hydrogen peroxide. I've never worked with the stuff, so I cannot attest to its odour.

Jylliana - 4-12-2014 at 08:27

I agree with the 'slightly sharp' or 'acrid' description.
Thanks for the answers. So to protect my nose, I will perform this in a fumehood next time.

confused - 9-12-2014 at 19:59

I am trying to electrochemically convert copper sulfate solution to a dilute solution of sulfuric acid, using a computer psu, but it keeps shorting out.
Besides diluting the salt solution, how else can i prevent constant shutdown of the psu?

Would placing a load resistor in series before the setup work?
How would it affect the current/voltage of the setup?

Oscilllator - 9-12-2014 at 22:27

I'm no expert, but I can tell you that placing the electrodes further apart will increase the resistance - no need to add resistors. I should think that increasing the resistance would decrease the current, since current = volts/resistance.

j_sum1 - 10-12-2014 at 01:45

I had the same problem until I blew something in the psu. I haven't yet pulled it apart to find what went wrong. Probably not fatal but it did highlight the benefit of a resistior in series.
I have switched to a current regulated power supply. Much better. If you can afford it, that's the way to go. The biggest difficulty now is chewing through anodes. Pt is probably desirable but expensive. My next choice is to get some graphite scourging electrodes from a welding shop, peel off the copper (or just let it go into the solution) and be prepared to filter the carbon out of the product.

confused - 10-12-2014 at 04:52

I got a platinum coated titanium electrode from ebay(http://goo.gl/e9NycX), but i'm still using a regular PSU for the power supply.

So increasing the resistance would decrease the current, so it would take longer to convert it?

AlphaDecay - 10-12-2014 at 07:53

I've bought fertilizer grade calcium nitrate, but I'm not sure if it is anhydrous or tetrahydrate. Is there a possibility to determine if it is anhydrous or not? Sorry if this is a silly question...

confused - 10-12-2014 at 08:10

well you can convert calcium nitrate tetrahydrate to anhydrous by heating it to 132 °C where it decomposes.

Alternatively, you can figure it out by finding the density of the solid
2.504 g/cm3 (anhydrous)
1.896 g/cm3 (tetrahydrate)

AlphaDecay - 10-12-2014 at 09:15

Thanks dude!

Amos - 10-12-2014 at 09:22

Finely powder it if possible; if it absorbs water and gets clumped together, it's probably anhydrous. If it loses a significant amount of weight with heating as previously suggested, it was a hydrate.
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