Sciencemadness Discussion Board

Slow high torque electric motors for stirrer?

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Varmint - 7-12-2014 at 19:01

Looks like pin 5 of the 555 is grounded, it should go to ground through a capacitor, I think you said you had a 0.022uF. Beyond that, I can't see enough in the critical area around pins 6 and 7, and which wires go to the pot.

You should be able to revisit any of the 555 websites, find the astable configuration, and set it up exactly as you see it there.

Magpie - 7-12-2014 at 20:20

Yes! That was the problem. From pin 5 I had the 0.022µF cap connected to ground but I also had a wire going from pin 5 directly to ground. Once that wire was removed it performed as before. Thank you very much. Varmint! :D

Magpie - 28-12-2014 at 21:15

My stepper motor stirrer assembly is nearly complete. I now have the driver circuit board mounted in an enclosure and a 6' long cable wired to it. The cable is a 4-wire, 22 gauge, security cable available from Home Depot by the foot. All wire connections have been shrink-wrapped to protect them from corrosive atmospheres. The 4-wire plug connection to the motor is as yet unprotected as I am not sure how best to seal this. I have thought of applying silicone caulk. What do forum members recommend?

I have a digital tachometer with LED display on its way from China on a slow boat. When this is all assembled I will post a picture of the finished product.

I found a nice picture of the inside of a bipolar stepper motor on the pololu site, as shown below. My understanding is that there are 2 stator electrical winding phases, one represented by the black-green wire pair and the other by the red-blue wire pair. Each phase contains four electromagnets, alternating around the circumference. Every pulse of the 555 timer triggers the driver to pulse one of the two phases, alternately. The electromagnets also alternate in sense, ie, north and south, by the driver changing the current direction.

There are 50 teeth on the front permanent magnet (PM) of the rotor and 50 teeth on the back PM of the rotor (can't really see the back teeth in the picture). These two magnets are of opposite, sense, ie, a north pole and a south pole, and their teeth are staggered with respect to each other.

The number of steps S of this motor per revolution equals the number of phases φ times the number of teeth, T. So,

S = φT = 2 x 50 x 2 = 200

Therefore, each pulse turns the rotor 1/200th of a revolution, or 1.8°.

Varmint, please correct me if I have made any errors.

bipolar stepper motor.jpg - 111kB

[Edited on 30-12-2014 by Magpie]

Hellafunt - 16-1-2015 at 22:44

today at the thrift store i found an 110V AC rotisserie spit turner motor for $4.99. it is really strong but very slow, just under one RPM. could this be of any use as an overhead mixer? i have not yet needed an overhead mixer, so i dont really know if such a slow mixer would be useless.

smaerd - 16-1-2015 at 22:49

Magpie I believe you're understanding of stepper motors is correct :). This project is awesome and I am impressed with your driver circuit. Do any of your IC's get hot after prolonged useage?

Zombie - 16-1-2015 at 22:59

I just wanted to chime in, and shake everyone hand for sharing this project.
This is something that benefits the entire community in all the right ways. If I have to make up a deserted island "guest book" I would also have to include you fellas.:D

Thank you for sharing all of this.

Magpie - 17-1-2015 at 07:18

Quote: Originally posted by smaerd  
Do any of your IC's get hot after prolonged useage?


I have not detected any overheating, however, I have not actually put the stirrer to use yet. I don't believe the 555 timer is vulnerable to overheating. The IC on the driver board comes with a heat sink.

I received the tachometer from China yesterday. I am planning to post pictures of the complete project along with itemized costs sometime later today.

Magpie - 17-1-2015 at 16:03

I completed the assembly of my stepper motor stirrer today. As indicated by the digital tachometer the available stirring speeds are 21 to 213 rpm. It has a 6ft cable so that I can keep the power supply and driver electronics well out of my hood when using the stirrer. Shown below are some pictures taken during final assembly. Also attached are the itemized costs, which totaled $64.36. I did hire some machinist labor to help me mount the motor on the aluminum slab and attach the carriage bolt. This cost is not included on the Excel spreadsheet.

I had a lot of fun learning about stepper motors and how to use one for an overhead stirrer. With a more powerful motor and a larger power supply voltage increased speed and torque would surely be possible. If you have any questions I will be glad to try and answer them.

components on perf board.jpg - 124kB
components on perf board

tachometer in operation.jpg - 118kB
tachometer in operation

stepper stirrer final assembly.jpg - 117kB
stepper stirrer final assembly

Attachment: Stepper Motor Stirrer Costs.xls (24kB)
This file has been downloaded 546 times




Zombie - 17-1-2015 at 18:23

Spectacular thread.

You can still fancy this up some using a "project box".
Something cheap from Ebay to stuff it all into. I'm attaching a pict of a boiler controller (distillation) I built using an Alarm Box I bought for 19.00USD/free shipping. Just to show the point... These are pre completion.

Great build Sir!

140408_008.jpg - 192kB140408_009.jpg - 187kB

Magpie - 15-10-2017 at 05:40

I have decided to upgrade my stepper motor mixer using a huge motor: Oriental Motor's PKP296D45AA, with 85mm frame. To drive this I have a a4988 driver, Polulo CVD245BR-K . This will be supplied with a regulated 24vdc.

I need to provide a pulse. What I'm planning to use is a 555 astable timer circuit. The pot R1 will be 100KΩ, R2=1KΩ, C1=0.22µF, and the capacitor from pin 5 to ground = 0.022µF. VCC will be 6vdc. This is the same timer circuit I have in use for my small stepper motor mixer.

Please comment on my choice of timer circuit.

Magpie - 15-10-2017 at 15:15

The 555 timer circuit that I have used for years does not work anymore. I have been troubleshooting all day with no success.I have done the following:

1 Replaced the 555 IC twice.
2. Confirmed the values of R1 and R2.
3. Rewired the 555 IC portion of the circuit.
4. VCC voltage of 6vdc confirmed.

Any help to fix this circuit will be highly appreciated.

Melgar - 16-10-2017 at 05:56

While it's kind of a cop-out answer, at $6 each, I just use an Arduino whenever I need to do anything even slightly complicated. The main thing that's nice about them is that if you want to change just about anything, or add some needlessly-elaborate feature, it's super easy. And of course, type in just about any circuit and the word "arduino" and it's virtually assured that something will come up, with really easy instructions:

http://howtomechatronics.com/tutorials/arduino/how-to-contro...

Magpie - 16-10-2017 at 10:33

Thanks for the suggestion, Melgar. I had no idea Arduinos were so cheap.

I have sent for components to make a circuit that will test a 555 timer IC.

I am contacting the electronics instructor at my local college for help.

carrant - 29-12-2017 at 17:11

Thanks to all who posted regarding building an overhead stirrer!

I built an overhead stirrer using an Arduino Nano, DRV8825 (w/ heatsink), NEMA 17, and a relay for the fan.

Basic operation -
Rotary encoder to increase/decrease speed.
Rotary encoder button
* single click - change rotation direction
* double click - turn fan on/off
* hold button - idle the motor and reset the runtime clock

If the internal temp of the box exceeds 55C (131F) then the fan is forced on until the temp drops below a threshold 35C (95F). I'm not sure of the high/low temps yet, but my garage in a Texas Summer is well over 100F.

Here is a link to a short video of it
https://youtu.be/tjacD4AK9Ro

Here is a link to the Arduino source
https://github.com/carrant/overheadstirrer/tree/master

Parts list
Local stores (In Dallas, Texas, USA: BGMicro, Tanner Electronics, Microcenter, Home Depot)
* Arduino Nano
* Project box
* 100uF caps
* 100nF caps
* 27K resistors
* 12V power supply
* 12V 40mm fan
* standoff, screw, nuts
* hookup wires
* jumper wires
* grommets
* NEMA 17 12V stepper
* 1/2" x 36" AL rod https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-2-in-x-36-in-Aluminum...
* Electrical brackets

Online orders
* perfboard https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-5cm-x-7cm-PCB-Prototyping-Per...
* 16x2 LCD https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Blue-IIC-I2C-TWI-1602-16x2-Seri...
* rotary encoder https://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-12mm-Rotary-Encoder-Push-Butt...
* solid state relay 1ch https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-DC-1-Channel-Solid-State-Relay-B...
* drv8825 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-PCS-DRV8825-3D-PRINTER-STEPPER-MO...
* DHT11 https://www.ebay.com/itm/1PCS-Arduino-DHT11-Temperature-and-...
* NEMA 17 bracket https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071NWWB7Z/ref=oh_aui_deta...
* 5mm to 7mm shaft coupler https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X9WF7BG/ref=oh_aui_deta...



Issues -
Reading the DHT11 temp sensor is troublesome. If interrupts are disable while reading the DHT11, the stepper timer will miss resulting in jitter. If interrupts are not disabled the DHT11 read will likely timeout. I tried to read it in the ISR which works slightly better but is still problematic. I also tried a DHT11 lib that uses an ISR for reading but did not have any improvement.

The rotary encoder's button is awkward to click. I suspect the case is a bit too thick, or the rotary encoder's quality isn't great.

GrayGhost- - 30-12-2017 at 13:57

Im use a chip chinese type Dremmel, with stainles steel like agitator, and variable speed incorporated, for minor speed use in serie a lamp type Edison (incandescent) 40 or 60 W and work fine.

Magpie - 30-12-2017 at 14:55

Quote: Originally posted by GrayGhost-  
Im use a chip chinese type Dremmel, with stainles steel like agitator, and variable speed incorporated, for minor speed use in serie a lamp type Edison (incandescent) 40 or 60 W and work fine.


I like this. But do you have sufficient torque to drive a 2.5cm agitator blade at 700 rpm? This would be needed to suspend iron fines for a making an amine from nitrobenzene. Also other reactions need this amount of torque. Also it must be capable of running continuously in some cases.

[Edited on 30-12-2017 by Magpie]

GrayGhost- - 30-12-2017 at 16:40

Quote: Originally posted by Magpie  
Quote: Originally posted by GrayGhost-  
Im use a chip chinese type Dremmel, with stainles steel like agitator, and variable speed incorporated, for minor speed use in serie a lamp type Edison (incandescent) 40 or 60 W and work fine.


I like this. But do you have sufficient torque to drive a 2.5cm agitator blade at 700 rpm? This would be needed to suspend iron fines for a making an amine from nitrobenzene. Also other reactions need this amount of torque. Also it must be capable of running continuously in some cases.

[Edited on 30-12-2017 by Magpie]


Nop, my agitator is wire, but running several hours. For more torque im thinking in use washing machine motor.

Magpie - 31-12-2017 at 10:53

Quote: Originally posted by GrayGhost-  

For more torque im thinking in use washing machine motor.


That sounds like huge overkill for motor size. Also, how would you control the speed?

I recommend a stepper motor. Even NEMA 17 has mucho torque. You do have to provide electronics for power and speed control, however.

GrayGhost- - 31-12-2017 at 15:48

Quote: Originally posted by Magpie  
Quote: Originally posted by GrayGhost-  

For more torque im thinking in use washing machine motor.


That sounds like huge overkill for motor size. Also, how would you control the speed?

I recommend a stepper motor. Even NEMA 17 has mucho torque. You do have to provide electronics for power and speed control, however.


Well is a future project, motor have to speed, 300 and 2800 rpm, I thinking use 300 rpm with mechanical reduction ( ghetto system) bycicle parts.

I have many adversities, i am poor, i am Marrieddddd, i am sudamerican and i am alone with my ideas and projects, and for last i am blacksmith, no professional chemist. But i happy for make essay and experiments .


Thank you for you interest.

Magpie - 14-1-2018 at 13:20

diddi, aga, varmint, et al,

I have purchased a Zyltech NEMA 23 stepper motor with Toshiba TB6600HG driver. Could someone please tell me how to connect the two. I have attached a scan of the terminal configurations.

Attachment: Scan.pdf (185kB)
This file has been downloaded 442 times

Magpie - 15-1-2018 at 12:17

Zyltech has provided a wiring diagram. However, I don't have a "breakout board," as such to provide the needed pulses. In the past I have used a 555 timer circuit.

The Zyltech breakout board has three wires coming from it that connect to the driver. They are labeled DIR, STEP, and +5V. These go to DIR-(DIR), PUL, and PUL+(+5V), respectively. The +5V wire also goes to DIR = (+5V) on the driver.

Can anyone provide me with a 555 timer circuit diagram?

Twospoons - 15-1-2018 at 16:15

Something like this? I'm guessing, based on the pin labels, that the driver has opt-couplers on the inputs. The series resistors Ive shown may not be needed, they may already be internal to the driver. 1k should be enough to limit the optocoupler current.

I'll leave it to you to work out the timing components on the 555.

I'm assuming EN has to be active to get anything to happen. The switch will let you change direction of rotation.

IMG_20180116_130837072.jpg - 1.1MB

Argh - left off pin 4 of the 555 - connect it to +5V.

[Edited on 16-1-2018 by Twospoons]

[Edited on 16-1-2018 by Twospoons]

Magpie - 16-1-2018 at 15:57

Thank you very much, Twospoons. I will be getting back to you as soon as I can (next day or two). Zyltech (a Chinese Co) is not giving much support.

slow,high torque....

Phosgenetimemachine - 25-1-2018 at 02:59

Ice maker in standard home freezer

Magpie - 27-1-2018 at 13:41

Quote: Originally posted by Magpie  
Thank you very much, Twospoons. I will be getting back to you as soon as I can (next day or two). Zyltech (a Chinese Co) is not giving much support.


Based on your schematic I created a wiring diagram for my situation (see attached file.) I wired up the components and tried it out. It didn't work.

Please (anyone) provide recommendations to correct my wiring diagram.



Schematic for Wiring Timer & Driver to Stepper Motor.jpg - 292kB

wg48 - 27-1-2018 at 16:46

You seem to have the 6600 wired up wrong. Inputs connected as output. Outputs connected as power supply input. You have several power supply connections not connected.

If you have a battery supply and a mains supply you have to be carfull not to put signals into unpowered devices or at incorrect voltages relative to its supply vontage.

I suggest you look at an application note for the 6600 and look at a typical wiring diagram. You need to pay more attention the power supply connections and which are inputs and which are outputs. Its all in the application note.

It may help if you draw your wiring diagram in less of a bird nest. Put arrows on the signal wires to indicate the signal flow.
Put arrows on pairs of wires like the drive connection to the motor to indicate the power flow. Try to arrange the functional blocks with say inputs on the left and the ouputs on the right. That will help you in understanding what is going on.

You probably need to find a tried and tested diagram and use that.

[Edited on 28-1-2018 by wg48]

Magpie - 27-1-2018 at 18:50

Thanks so much for your help, I am really getting desperate.
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

I suggest you look at an application note for the 6600 and look at a typical wiring diagram.


I have tried to get technical help from Zyltech but have had no luck. Where would I find such an application note and typical wiring diagram?
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

You probably need to find a tried and tested diagram and use that.


If you could provide one or point me to one I would really appreciate that.

wg48 - 28-1-2018 at 00:46


You probably have already pissed off Zyltech please don’t attempt to talk to them again as you may put them off trying to help anyone else.

Do you not know how to use Google??? If you don’t perhaps visit your locale library or an internet cafe and ask there or read a book called The Internet for Dummies. Frankly you seem to be way out of your depth or perhaps you want to be spoon fed.

Ok here is a bit of spoon feeding: On the assumption you do know how to use google search for “TB6600 application note”. Read application note in particular the wiring diagram at least three time or more. Identify the function of each connection and attempt to associate them with the connections on your break out board.

I found the following thread when I googled “wiring up the td6600”

forum.arduino.cc/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=381679.0;attach=156278



Magpie - 28-1-2018 at 14:00

First of all let me thank you profusely as I think we are well on the way to solving this problem that I have been struggling with for months.
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

You probably have already pissed off Zyltech please don’t attempt to talk to them again as you may put them off trying to help anyone else.


No, I have only written them once and I have not seen their reply yet. The person really pissed off is me as up until now I have not been able to find a wiring diagram.
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Frankly you seem to be way out of your depth or perhaps you want to be spoon fed.


Yes, I am way out of my depth and hence need direction from those experienced in such matters such as yourself. Isn't that what this forum is for?

Attached is my revised wiring diagram for your review and comment. I know it is not completely correct as I had to make some guesses on the hookup to the timer wiring (pulse generator). So, please correct any wiring errors that you see.

mucho gracias,
Don

wiring diagram for stepper motor 1-28-18.jpg - 227kB

wg48 - 29-1-2018 at 04:08

Out of curiosity I did some more detailed research. I have several stepper motors as they are available from old photocopiers for free. The bigger the photocopier the bigger the motors and incidentally power supplies, lenses, mirrors and a variety mechanical bits.

Apparently what you call a break out board I would call a module. They are available from ebay for as little as £6. Thats good for a dual channel 160W driver. Usually with little or no interface specification. They usually have a common mode isolated inputs ie opto isolated inputs. Hence the two wire + and - inputs for each signal which are powered by the signals and not connected to the power supply of the module.

About your wiring diagram: You now have the inputs of the motor connected to outputs for a motor of the module. Assuming you have the correctly wired one winding to phase A and the second winding to phase B and it is a two phase stepper motor I believe those connections are correct. Its good practice to connect the metal case of the motor to the 0V of the module.

The three signal outputs from the module are
pul - a pulse or edge to increment a step or a fraction of a step (set by the dip switches)
dir - rotation direction
ena - enable or operate

You probably have these incorrectly connected as you have all three connected to the pulses from the 555. I strongly suspect that will confuse the module.

Connect the –dir and – ena and –pul to the 0v of the 5v supply of the 555.

Connect the output of the 555 (pin 3 I think) to +pul of the module. The inline 1k may be required.

Connect the +dir and +en to the +5V of the 555. An inline 1k may be required but I suspect not. Consult the interface spec for module if possible likely not apparently.

The +ena could be connected via a switch ie off/on and you will need a 5V power supply for the 555

Did you make any attempt to understand what the pul, dir and ena signals do or draw a readable diagram the right way up? Do you think your 555 was internally powered by micro over unity device? (rhetorical questions)

That ends my spoon feeding. Yes you can ask for help but put more effort in to helping yourself first.

I suggest you try to confirm my advice and double check your wiring prior to power up. To use a flying term you are responsible for your own seperation.


Edit: I should add that I have made assumptions about your module’s input interface Apparently opto coupled inputs are not universal. I have assumed they are.
You need to check the spec if available.

You can also check using an ohm meter that all three inputs (both the + and - are isolated from the other signal pairs and the 0V of the module power supply.



t-inter-2.jpg - 7kB

[Edited on 29-1-2018 by wg48]

Magpie - 29-1-2018 at 18:01

wg48,

Attached is rev 3 of my wiring diagram. I think you will find it readable. The terminations for the 555 timer are an amalgam of direction you have given and successful connections I have used in the past for a stepper motor. Please give corrections if you think it is inappropriate.

I don't plan to power up until you have approved the diagram.

Don

wiring for stepper motor 1-29-18.jpg - 253kB

wg48 - 30-1-2018 at 02:41

The connections to the module appear correct except for that you have a 1k in series with only one input signal. Its improbable that the inputs to the module do not have identical characteristics so you need series resistors on all three or none at all.

I assume you have been unable to determine if the 1ks are needed or not. Perhaps if you examine the board inside the module you may be able to see resistors on the board near the inputs and confirm their connection to the inputs with your ohm meter. (see the last diagram I posted.) If there are no such resistors its probable that no resistor is needed on any of the inputs, if the 555 is operating on a 5v supply. More importantly it may not work with 1k.

Hopefully you have performed the tests I suggested on the inputs in the absence of other information.

My suggestions for drawing the diagram were not so much to help my reading it but to help you not make mistakes like connecting motors inputs to module inputs.

Twospoons - 30-1-2018 at 12:19

Every time you redraw the 555 timer it seems to be different - and not quite right.
Refer to this: https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/waveforms/555_oscillato...

wg48 - 30-1-2018 at 12:54

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  
The connections to the module appear correct except for that you have a 1k in series with only one input signal. Its improbable that the inputs to the module do not have identical characteristics so you need series resistors on all three or none at all.

I assume you have been unable to determine if the 1ks are needed or not. Perhaps if you examine the board inside the module you may be able to see resistors on the board near the inputs and confirm their connection to the inputs with your ohm meter. (see the last diagram I posted.) If there are no such resistors its probable that no resistor is needed on any of the inputs, if the 555 is operating on a 5v supply. More importantly it may not work with 1k.

Hopefully you have performed the tests I suggested on the inputs in the absence of other information.

My suggestions for drawing the diagram were not so much to help my reading it but to help you not make mistakes like connecting motors inputs to module inputs.


Oops!!! The comments about the resistors should read:
if there are no resistors on the board then series resistors will be required in the signals lines.

Magpie - 30-1-2018 at 16:02

Here is Rev 4 for your review and comments. I popped the hood on the module and saw no resistors. I added R1 (1KΩ) so now each input has a resistor.

Thanks, twospoons, for the link to the astable oscillator diagram. I incorporated this in Rev 4.

I should mention that diddi and varmint contributed greatly to my first stepper motor wiring diagrams for an overhead mixer.

Please review and comment.

stepper motor wiring diagram rev 4 1-30-18.jpg - 258kB

wg48 - 31-1-2018 at 03:25

No you have not added a resistor to each signal input and the resistor you did add appears shorted out !!!

The following is a corrected diagram. The red squiggles are resistors. I removed the incorrect connection between pins 4 and 7 and your R1.

I do not know if 1ks are the correct value to drive your module with sufficent current.

I have not checked the rest of the 555 circuit as it was not visible on your diagram.

ggg.jpg - 199kB

PS you will have to add a switch to disconnect the battery or the battery will go flat when not in use.

[Edited on 31-1-2018 by wg48]

Twospoons - 31-1-2018 at 14:24

Once again the 555 diagram is not quite right. You are showing a direct connection from pin 4 to pin 7 - remove it or you will blow the chip, as pin 4 is also connected to the + supply! I strongly recommend you copy the diagram from the link I sent you verbatim. Chips do not have to be drawn with the pin order as it is on the physical device - and in fact are seldom drawn this way as it makes the schematic messy and hard to follow. Connections are never drawn inside chips. Clear and well laid out diagrams are essential in electronic engineering, for clarity of thought and ease of conveying information.

Magpie - 31-1-2018 at 16:28

Please review and comment on Rev 5, attached. Also please suggest values for C1, R1, R3, R4, and R5.

Please excuse the poor picture quality. My new printer/scanner just went tits up. So I had to do it the old fashion way: take a picture.

Many thanks,
Don

stepper control wiring diagram rev 5.JPG - 147kB

Twospoons - 31-1-2018 at 18:32

That looks perfect. Now you just need to work out appropriate component values. For the series resistors connected to the driver I think you would be looking at values anywhere from 270 ohms to 1000 ohms. You'll just have to see what works.

Magpie - 31-1-2018 at 18:38

Thanks, Twospoons. I will wait for wg48 to comment tomorrow morning before powering it up. He will likely have suggestions for the values.

I finally heard from Zyltech. All they did was refer me to somebody's YouTube video. I really doubt if they have anybody competent to deal with on-line questions. OrientalMotor is much better.

Here's a list of components I have on hand:

resistors
4ea 1KΩ
5ea 220Ω
2ea 680Ω

capacitors
1ea 0.022µF
1ea 0.22µF
1ea 10 µF




[Edited on 1-2-2018 by Magpie]

[Edited on 1-2-2018 by Magpie]

[Edited on 1-2-2018 by Magpie]

Twospoons - 1-2-2018 at 00:57

Things like this are very useful to have.
That way you can pick and choose values on the fly, without having to special order every part.

I have assorted bags of both resistors and capacitors, in both leaded and surface mount varieties.

Zyltech probably know very little about the driver, beyond what is in the datasheet for the driver chip. I'd bet good money they buy in bulk from china somewhere and slap their own label on it. If you want detail, read the TB6600HG datasheet.

[Edited on 1-2-2018 by Twospoons]

[Edited on 1-2-2018 by Twospoons]

wg48 - 1-2-2018 at 01:41

Quote: Originally posted by Magpie  
Thanks, Twospoons. I will wait for wg48 to comment tomorrow morning before powering it up. He will likely have suggestions for the values.

I finally heard from Zyltech. All they did was refer me to somebody's YouTube video. I really doubt if they have anybody competent to deal with on-line questions. OrientalMotor is much better.

Here's a list of components I have on hand:

resistors
4ea 1KΩ
5ea 220KΩ
2ea 680KΩ

capacitors
1ea 0.022µF
1ea 0.22µF
1ea 10 µF




[Edited on 1-2-2018 by Magpie]

[Edited on 1-2-2018 by Magpie]


The two switches “power on” and “enable” may not be needed (just the power on may work fine) but it will work as shown so Ok great you seen to have the connections correct now.

The required output frequency of the 555 is determined by the mode you select on the dip switches on the 6600 module (from memory) and the minimum and maximum rmp required of the motor and the number of poles of the motor. The minimum pulse width and its polarity is determine by the minimum pulse width requirements of the 6600 and which edge or pulse polarity. is required.. I do not know many of those parameters so I cannot review them.

I suggest you try the ones you have already selected at least to start with.

Best of luck with your first power up

PS;

[Edited on 1-2-2018 by wg48]

Magpie - 1-2-2018 at 13:02

The values selected for R1, R3, R4, R5, C1, and C2 are 1KΩ, 680Ω, 680Ω, 680Ω, 0.22 µF, and 0.01µF, respectively. The lantern battery is 6vdc. The VCC from the power supply is 12vdc. The circuit did not work.

I rechecked all terminations. I changed out the two capacitors and the 555 chip. Dip switches on the module are set "as received," ie, all up except the 2nd one over from the left. The knife switches were bypassed.

If you have any suggestions to correct this please let me know.

Twospoons - 1-2-2018 at 14:26

what sort of test gear do you have? Do you have a meter that reads frequency? If not you could check the 555 output (pin3)by measuring AC volts - you should get 3-6V if it is putting out pulses.

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/tools/555-timer-astable-cir... suggests a frequency of 2kHz to 6kHz with your values - which seems reasonable.

Also is the rotor locked on the motor? Can you move it by hand with power applied? If you can move it then the driver is not enabled.

can you post a pic of your construction?



[Edited on 2-2-2018 by Twospoons]

Magpie - 1-2-2018 at 16:40

I have a volt-ohm meter but no method for measuring frequency.

There is no voltage at 3 on the 555 chip.

I can turn the rotor by hand.

IMG_2167.JPG - 178kB IMG_2168.JPG - 179kB IMG_2169.JPG - 154kB

edit1: I am setting up a stand alone 555 astable pulse generator. This should help me troubleshoot why my stepper circuit is not generating a pulse.

edit2: Iam getting a voltage at pin 3 as detected with an LED. But, of course I can't detect frequency. But I do have switching diodes that I verified the operation of a 555 once. Would that give frequency?

[Edited on 2-2-2018 by Magpie]

[Edited on 2-2-2018 by Magpie]

violet sin - 1-2-2018 at 18:26

Top hot rail to field? A38 --> 5V or A35 --> 5V , I would have thought perhaps.

555Pin 3 should be a straight shot to pul+ controller (6th from right in picture) but it ties into what looks like ground (seeing as how 555Pin 1 is connected) as well as 555Pin 5 via ceramic cap right on breadboard.


[Edited on 2-2-2018 by violet sin]

Twospoons - 1-2-2018 at 20:55

Looks like you have pin 3 connected to ground (yellow wire) and to the end of the cap on pin 5 (grey wire). There's a real possibility your 555 is dead as a result.
Also I can't see where +6V is connected to pins 8/4 - there appears to be no link to +6V.
Your driver clearly isn't running either because the rotor is not locked and there is no current draw on the ammeter of the power supply.

With every breadboard I've encountered the side rails are continuous along the whole length, and there is no need for all the little jumpers. Yours may be the oddball, of course. Easy to check with a meter.

[Edited on 2-2-2018 by Twospoons]

Magpie - 2-2-2018 at 17:28

I have completely rewired for clarity. I have replaced the 555. The 6vdc rail is the top most rail. The next one down is the ground rail. It is continued at the bottom of the breadboard.

The pulse generator is still not running and the rotor is free.

my stand alone pulse generator was working as evidenced by an LED. Now, for some weird reason it has stopped working. I am going to continue to troubleshoot this.

One problem I have is that the local Radioshack closed. I would like to buy some LEDs in case I blew the one that was working.

I will post pictures as soon as my camera battery is charged.

Magpie - 2-2-2018 at 18:24

Here's the photos:



stepper wiring ass'y.JPG - 180kB stepper wiring 555 closeup.JPG - 159kB stepper wiring, real closeup.JPG - 154kB

violet sin - 2-2-2018 at 22:36

Hot 6v rail comes in on brown to meet with yellow ( --> pin 8) and the resistor. But also on pin 8 is brown --> green --> green --> ground... Aka it goes 6v to ground.

Twospoons - 3-2-2018 at 01:27

There also appears to be a red wire from pin 2 to ground. And blue + green connecting pin 6 to ground. Mate - strip everything off and start from scratch. Slowly. Methodically.
( Starting to feel like we're being trolled)

violet sin - 3-2-2018 at 02:35

I sketched this out real quick and looked it over a couple times. But wires could look something like this. In a bread board.

IMAG4619.jpg - 856kB

1 pin is lower left of IC in pic, noted by notch mark on left end. It's straddling the mid rift of a bread board if it's not obvious. I have a bunch of other crap on mine right now or I'd throw it together.

wg48 - 3-2-2018 at 07:14

Quote: Originally posted by Twospoons  
There also appears to be a red wire from pin 2 to ground. And blue + green connecting pin 6 to ground. Mate - strip everything off and start from scratch. Slowly. Methodically.
( Starting to feel like we're being trolled)


I was beginning to think that myself so I checked his posting history. There is nothing in that to suggest he may be trolling.

Apparently he is a retired chemical engineer about 75 years old. Unfortunately as we get older our abilities to learn new stuff can dramatically decrease. Our short term memory tends to be very short and decisions trees tend be short and narrow. Our abilities to learn new things is also very dependent on our experience and the type of personality we are ie whether we are mostly procedural or model driven. Procedural personalities tend not to have transferable skills.

I think its reasonable to assume as a chemical engineer he is a post graduated but his abilites in electronics is very limited. No offence intended to anyone. I am retired engineer I have noticed my maths skills are much reduced along with my ability to learn new stuff. It sucks to be old and half brain dead and being an atheist I can't even look forward to heaven LOL

Magpie: I will try to give your more help later when I have more time.


[Edited on 3-2-2018 by wg48]

Magpie - 3-2-2018 at 09:00

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  


...( Starting to feel like we're being trolled)

I was beginning to think that myself so I checked his posting history. There is nothing in that to suggest he may be trolling.


I have been struggling with this wiring issue for about 6 months now. I very much appreciate all the help you guys have provided. I have two syntheses that are being held up for lack of a strong overhead stirrer. I have built a similar circuit before that powered a NEMA 17 stepper motor that I salvaged from an old copier. It worked well but was limited in top speed and power. Its circuit failed or I would be using it.
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Apparently he is a retired chemical engineer about 75 years old.
I think its reasonable to assume as a chemical engineer he is a post graduated but his abilites in electronics is very limited. No offence intended to anyone. I am retired engineer I have noticed my maths skills are much reduced along with my ability to learn new stuff. It sucks to be old and half brain dead and being an atheist I can't even look forward to heaven LOL


I am a retired chemical engineer (BS ChE) where I worked in synthetic rubber R&D, pulp and paper mills, nuclear fuel rod chop/leach dissolver, and built/operated/troubleshot a nuclear waste processing plant. I designed a lifting crane and an agitator system for a 5000 gallon tank. I retired 15 years ago, now devoting much of my time to this forum and my garage lab.

My higher math skills suck as I have forgotten too much. I too have nothing to look forward to after death, LMAO.

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Magpie: I will try to give your more help later when I have more time.


I am very grateful. If I can help you with organic chemistry just let me know. You will get my best effort.

wg48 - 3-2-2018 at 09:50

Ok lets start at the module.

Is it from your old stirrer? if yes how did you drive it?
Else post a pic of the module that I can read the writting on it.



Magpie - 3-2-2018 at 13:38

Quote: Originally posted by Twospoons  
There also appears to be a red wire from pin 2 to ground. And blue + green connecting pin 6 to ground.


Right! How careless of me. (wg48 and I need to have a discussion about 75 year olds.)

My LED is flickering away nicely. But my rotor still does not turn even after I bumped the module voltage to 18vdc.

Magpie - 3-2-2018 at 15:31

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  
Ok lets start at the module.

Is it from your old stirrer? if yes how did you drive it?
Else post a pic of the module that I can read the writting on it.


No, it is a brand new Toshiba 6600HG and came with the Zyltech stepper.

Here's a photo of the Toshiba:



TB6600HG module.JPG - 220kB

violet sin - 3-2-2018 at 15:59

Now in a case like this does it matter if you mix the grounds from your voltage sources? Do they need to be kept separate? I ask because I once tried using the cheap eBay bits to make a printer motor work. It was a much smaller one than yours, I tried with 555 square wave signal generator --> a little purple driver board DRV8825 --> stepper motor.

My issue arrived when I knew so little about the driver I must have imagined a "go" button. But it needed to be tickled from an external brain or dumb device. I already had the square wave generator (2-3$ eBay) so figured why not. I also got as far as my output light flickered according to what jumper was selected. But the motor would not work on any of them.

I trouble shot the issue to find people were complaining about the rip-off's from eBay were pinned out differently and the 3D printer guys were making adapters to still use them. If I recall correctly someone speculated there was a slight difference to not get sued, but it didn't matter why.

A small board was soldered together with a couple IC sockets (ordered wrong size width, agh) and salvaged ribbon connector from e-waste for connections. I could not verify my motor type, but chased down some that were close... Did not work, Never got around to it again yet. Still have the "night-rider" LED thing with CD4017 and 555 on my breadboard right now. But I could throw some stuff together this evening it would be helpful at all. If nothing else, I'd like to at least get use of the driver PCB's at least once be for they end up shearing off some SMC components... It will happen eventually

wg48 - 3-2-2018 at 16:28

Quote: Originally posted by Magpie  
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  
Ok lets start at the module.

Is it from your old stirrer? if yes how did you drive it?
Else post a pic of the module that I can read the writting on it.


No, it is a brand new Toshiba 6600HG and came with the Zyltech stepper.

Here's a photo of the Toshiba:





Toshiba 6600HG is the designation of the IC contained in the module and as prevously stated is not much help in identifying the interface requirements of the module.

The pic of the cover also does not help me define the interface requirements either.

So I searched for modules that look the same as yours. I found this:

http://www.ebuy7.com/item/eheedjdifcjf
That does not require resistors when driven by 5v signals

Is this one yours or can you give me a link to where you bought yours?


I suspect your module does not require series resistors when the signal inputs a driven by 5v signals like the one in the link. The problem is if you drive the module’s signal inputs without a resistor and it does require them it will damage the module. So we need to be confident about the resistors before you try without them.

Please post a pic of the board in the module if you cannot supply the link or the link I have given is not your module.

Given your battery is 6V smaller value resitors may be required though a 20% overvoltage will probably be ok but will be risky...


Twospoons - 3-2-2018 at 17:17

Hey, sorry about the trolling comment - now I know where you are coming from I can understand a bit more of what your skill base is. I myself am knocking on 50 (1 month to go). Thing is I'm a professional electronics engineer, and I have to remember that stuff which is bloody obvious to me may not be to someone fairly new to the game.
I am happy to help anyone genuinely trying to learn.
Quote: Originally posted by violet sin  
Now in a case like this does it matter if you mix the grounds from your voltage sources?


No it doesn't. In fact I'd recommend linking the two grounds in this case, since otherwise the battery powered circuit could be floating if the module uses optocouplers on the inputs - not necessarily a bad thing, but I'd prefer control over randomness. In some industrial situations you do want to keep grounds isolated (I wont go into the reasons here), but once again this needs optocouplers to keep the control system currents separate from the motor currents.

Posting a pic of the board inside the motor driver would be very helpful - at least 1024 pixels wide please.

Magpie - 3-2-2018 at 19:51

My Toshiba driver is just like the one in your link. Below is a photo of the inside of the driver:



Toshiba driver opened up.JPG - 170kB

Here's the Zyltech link from which I bought the motor/driver combo:

https://www.zyltech.com/store/p96/Nema_23_Stepper_Motor_w%2F...



[Edited on 4-2-2018 by Magpie]

Twospoons - 3-2-2018 at 21:11

So, looking at that I can see 3 optocouplers, and associated input resistors and protection. So you wont need the series resistors in your circuit as the driver already has them built in.

driver_annotated.png - 2.1MB

Magpie - 3-2-2018 at 21:54

Good thing you looked, Twospoons. Those resistors didn't look like anything I would recognize.

wg48 - 4-2-2018 at 02:39

Ok so you have three independent lines of evidence that the module does not need input resistors. the link I posted the link you posted and Twospoon view of the components on the board.

Will it be damaged by 5v? Your link suggests the input current is 5mA to 18mA. That’s low for most opto-couplers and 6V is close to 5V So I think its low risk to work at 6V.

So try with the resistors in series with the signal lines removed and replaced with wire.

Hopefully it will be working now or at least the rotor will be locked.

From your comment about the LED flashing I think you will need to increase the frequency of the 555 more than ten fold. ie reducing the timing cap.

Magpie - 4-2-2018 at 07:00

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

From your comment about the LED flashing I think you will need to increase the frequency of the 555 more than ten fold. ie reducing the timing cap.


I can easily increase the flashing to a steady light by turning the 100K pot.

Magpie - 4-2-2018 at 07:26

The 3 resistors are now out but the rotor is still free at 13.5vdc to the module.

wg48 - 4-2-2018 at 08:01

Quote: Originally posted by Magpie  
The 3 resistors are now out but the rotor is still free at 13.5vdc to the module.


First check the dip switches are in a suitable position, consult the info on the cover and the spec for the 6600 chip

Then check the voltage applied to the module with your multimeter ie the voltage to its supply Vcc and Gnd.

Then check the voltage between the +and - of the ena, dir signals on the actual terminal of the module.

Using your LED and resistor check you have pulses between the Pul+ and Pul- on the terminals of the module. Note no pulses should stop rotation but not a locked rotor.

Check the voltage across the motor drives A+ to A- and B+ to B- at least one of them should have a voltage between them.


Remove the power to the module and check the resistance between A+ to A- and B+ to B- it should be a few ohms again across the terminals.

Twospoons - 4-2-2018 at 13:02

I would set the dip switches thusly:
s1,s2, : ON , s3 : OFF -> put driver in single step mode

S4: OFF , S5,S6 : ON -> 1A motor current ( a good starting point)

You should be able to see the current on the meter of that nice power supply you have, if the driver is active. You should see pretty much the same current whether the motor is turning or not.
Looking at the docs it may be the driver is set up to be enabled by default, given the diagrams that leave the enable disconnected. Try that too.

Magpie - 4-2-2018 at 14:26

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

First check the dip switches are in a suitable position, consult the info on the cover and the spec for the 6600 chip


The dip switches have been set per Twospoons' next post. Ie,
S1, S2: ON
S3, S4: OFF
S5, S6: ON
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Then check the voltage applied to the module with your multimeter ie the voltage to its supply Vcc and Gnd
.

15 vdc
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Then check the voltage between the +and - of the ena, dir signals on the actual terminal of the module.


both are 5vdc
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Using your LED and resistor check you have pulses between the Pul+ and Pul- on the terminals of the module. Note no pulses should stop rotation but not a locked rotor.


using no resistor: pulsing
w/680Ω: no pulsing


Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Check the voltage across the motor drives A+ to A- and B+ to B- at least one of them should have a voltage between them.


no voltage across either
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

Remove the power to the module and check the resistance between A+ to A- and B+ to B- it should be a few ohms again across the terminals.


A+ to A- = 0v
B+ to B- = 0v

measured with a meter that reads 10 Ω midscale

Zyltech data sheet values: 1.2Ω for each phase





A Toshiba 6600 document that might be of value:
file:///C:/Users/Owner/Downloads/TB6600HG_datasheet_en_20160610%20(2).pdf

aga - 4-2-2018 at 14:32

Not sure if this is relevant, but the stepper drivers i have are opto-isolated, so basically you have to put the all the N- to ground or sticking 5v on the N+ does nothing.

Twospoons - 4-2-2018 at 16:27

Try disconnecting ENA. It may work backwards ie no volts = on and 5V = off.

wg48 - 5-2-2018 at 00:26

Well you appear to have the right voltages on the terminals of the module.

You did not give the resistance across the motor terminal but given the results of the voltage tests and no supply current drawn its irrelevant.

Yes try switching off the ENA signal, try disconnecting the 6v battery, try various combinations of the dip switches each time check for a locked rotor and significant Vcc current on your power supply.

You could check the voltages on the pins of the 6600 chip inside your module if you can work out what they should be from the data sheet but it will probably just confirm the Module is faulty.

Assuming you did the tests correctly Its probable the module is faulty. Given a new module costs about $7 you may be at the point to order a new one from China. To avoid the wait you can buy from the US but it will probably double or more the price.

One thing talk your EE buddy into checking it out on site. A fresh pair of eyes and a different brain may spot a problem.
Even a half brain dead EE is probably better than no EE LOL.

If you do order a new one make certain you have an interface spec for it in English. You would not buy new glassware without knowing what the size of the ground joints were. A spec for the module not the IC it contains.



[Edited on 5-2-2018 by wg48]

Magpie - 5-2-2018 at 20:14

wg48, sorry for the mistake of omission on my last post. Here is the correction:

phase resistances:

A+ to A-: 0Ω
B+ to B-: 0Ω

These were measured with an ohm meter reading 10Ω at midscale.

Zyltech spec: 1.2Ω for each phase

I am getting the rest of the requested information now.

[Edited on 6-2-2018 by Magpie]

[Edited on 6-2-2018 by Magpie]

[Edited on 6-2-2018 by Magpie]

wg48 - 6-2-2018 at 07:48

When the module is not powered, I would not expect the resistance across the phases with the motor connected to be significantly different than the resistance of the windings, on the assumption that the transistors of the H bridge of the module are enhancement mode and the ohmmeter has insufficient OC voltage to cause the significant conduction through the H bridge diodes or measure zero ohms.

I suggest you check the resistance of the motor windings disconnected from the module and check the resistance across the modules phase outputs (again with the module un-powered and this time with the motor disconnected) and preferable check the resistance of a 1.2ohm resistor to determine the validity of your meter reading.

I think if the resistance across the phases (A+ to A- and B+ to B-) of an unpowered module (motor disconnected) is less than 1 ohm it is probably faulty.

Magpie - 6-2-2018 at 12:32

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  

I suggest you check the resistance of the motor windings disconnected from the module and check the resistance across the modules phase outputs (again with the module un-powered and this time with the motor disconnected) and preferable check the resistance of a 1.2ohm resistor to determine the validity of your meter reading.

I think if the resistance across the phases (A+ to A- and B+ to B-) of an unpowered module (motor disconnected) is less than 1 ohm it is probably faulty.


I have a small NEMA 17 Mineba stepper motor, proven operable, that also reads 0 Ω across the phases. I measured the smallest resistor I have, 22Ω, and it also reads 0 Ω. It is clear that my meter cannot read small resistances. Therefore, I think all of my 5 stepper motors are good. The fault must be with the module.

Here's the answers to your other questions:

1. Switching the ENA signal off made no change.
2. My EE buddy is a "power" man. Only thing he said was "believe the experts."
3. Changing around all the dip switches made no difference.

I will buy a new Toshiba module. This is not a problem.


wg48 - 6-2-2018 at 13:01

Don't forget the interface spec for the module (not the TD6600) spec). Perhaps a new mutimeter at the same time.

Hope you have better luck with the next one.

Twospoons - 6-2-2018 at 17:13

Certainly starting to look like its the driver thats busted. Odd - those things are usually fairly robust. Must have been DOA. Unless you managed to connect power to the motor terminals by accident, I can't see how you could have damaged it.

Magpie - 8-2-2018 at 14:37

Victory! I set up another breadboard using a 555 timer and an A4988 driver. This was used to drive my old NEMA 17 Mineba stepper motor. It worked per design!

It's looking more and more like the Toshiba 6600HG driver is at fault.

Twospoons - 8-2-2018 at 14:56

Given the price of that module, it is entirely possible they don't test at the factory - just replace the dead ones returned by customers. Testing costs money - and when you have yields exceeding 99.9% its wasted money.
Of course its frustrating for the customers who do get bad ones.

Magpie - 8-2-2018 at 16:56

I just got the Zyltech NEMA 23 to operate using the A4988 driver. At 30vdc it reached an estimated 800 rpm (by ear). But then I couldn't get it to operate again.



[Edited on 9-2-2018 by Magpie]

violet sin - 8-2-2018 at 17:59


https://www.pololu.com/product/1182
""Allegro’s A4988 microstepping bipolar stepper motor driver features adjustable current limiting, over-current and over-temperature protection, and five different microstep resolutions (down to 1/16-step). It operates from 8 V to 35 V and can deliver up to approximately 1 A per phase without a heat sink or forced air flow (it is rated for 2 A per coil with sufficient additional cooling). ""

So it may just be temporarily off for temp/etc. reasons. Try again in a little while, maybe it will be back in order.

Magpie - 8-2-2018 at 20:39

I tried running the Zyltech again several hours later. It would not go; but it vibrates strongly like it wants to go. The rotor locks.

I replaced the A4988 driver but this made no difference. The max amps was only 0.3. There is a heat sink on the driver.

I have 2 other NEMA17s. Both are OMCStepperOnline: models 17HS13-0316S and 17HS19-0406S. Neither would even vibrate.

wg48 - 9-2-2018 at 06:31

Its relatively easy to perform a crude check on your motors using the electrons from your 6V battery (the electrons that do like or at least don’t hate you as much as the module electrons do ) by doing the job of a motor driver yourself. Momentary (~1s to avoid over heating the winding) connect one of the motor phases across to the 6V battery buttons, then momentary connect the other phase, then the first phase again then the other phase and so on. The motor should make a single step (a few degrees of movement) each time you energise the phases in turn. Depending on the initial position of the rotor it my not move on the first application of the battery.

It is desirable to have your fingers in contact with both conductors when you disconnect from the battery to provide a path for the back emf to limit it to safe levels for the motor insulation The will have the additional benefit of give you an indication of how much the electrons do like you or not dependent on the level of electric shock you feel. Thinking about it perhaps it it will be best to risk failure of the motor insulation than risk testing the affections electrons to you as I suspect all electrons like to mess with you. LOL
(The comments about electrons is a joke as indicated by the LOL)

Pumukli - 9-2-2018 at 09:49

- not important comment -

This proposed test reminds me my own experiences with affectionate electrons.

When I was 7 or 8 there was a period when I liked putting a 4.5V battery across each free hanging electric leads I came across in the hope the device under test would do something interesting.

Well, I quickly learned to approach more cautiously such conductors when I put the battery across a salvaged mains transformer :D

The final "enlightment" came a few years later when I repeated the experiment with a 12V car battery attached to a "naked" (= removed from its metal enclosure) car ignition coil and somehow touched the wrong lead while disconnecting the well energized primary. ;)

Twospoons - 9-2-2018 at 13:22

If the motor is locked but not rotating I'd guess one phase is not connected properly.

Magpie - 9-2-2018 at 16:56

I have a Mineba unipolar (2 phases, 6 wires) that I have been using in the bipolar mode (2 phases, 4 wires). In this mode I am using red-yellow for phase 1 (0 resistance between them) and blue-orange for phase 2 (0 resistance between them). I had this motor operating yesterday but now it is locked rotor. In what sequence should I place the terminals on the A4988 driver? I've tried a) red, yellow, blue, orange, b) red, yellow, orange, blue, and c) orange, red, yellow, blue. I get locked rotors but no motor operation.

My ohm meter will not discriminate between the outer terminals of a phase coil and an outer terminal and center tap terminal, ie, they both read 0.

[Edited on 10-2-2018 by Magpie]

Twospoons - 9-2-2018 at 17:12

You really need to get a better meter. Or possibly replace the battery in your current one?

You really are having a rough time with your steppers. It shouldn't be this hard to get them running.

Magpie - 11-2-2018 at 14:34

Quote: Originally posted by Twospoons  
You really need to get a better meter. Or possibly replace the battery in your current one?


I am in the process of getting a meter than can measure down to 1 ohm. I just received a Fluke 101 digital multimeter. The resistance function does not work so I will be calling Fluke tomorrow.

But I don't think this will help, really. My internet search brought up only one Megger ohmmeter capable of reading down to 0.025Ω. Cost: $3910 (free shipping...chuckle) from Davis. Test Equip. Depot has a Megger meter that will read 1.9999 Ω full scale but don't give a price.

If you can recommend a suitable meter at a reasonable price let me know.

Quote: Originally posted by Twospoons  

You really are having a rough time with your steppers. It shouldn't be this hard to get them running.


I've been thinking this for some time now.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

I received my new Toshiba driver for the Zyltech stepper motor yesterday. I hooked it up as shown in the pictures attached. It did not work.




integrated stepper drive system.JPG - 202kB 555 timer circuit.JPG - 186kB new Toshiba driver.JPG - 155kB

[Edited on 11-2-2018 by Magpie]

Twospoons - 11-2-2018 at 15:32

Pretty much any digital meter should be capable of 0.1 ohm resolution, on a 100 ohm fullscale setting. Certainly the Fluke 101 is capable of showing tenths of an ohm. They're usually a pretty reliable brand (or always have been), and tend not to misread with a tired battery the way some of the dirt cheap chinese meters do.

Personally I have one made by Keysight (who used to be Agilent who used to be Hewlett-Packard), but its a $400 meter - probably more than most hobbyists want to spend!

Heres another thing you can try : set your power supply to 1V , and the current limit to about 1A, and connect it directly to the motor winding. Read the current off the power supply. 1 divided by this number will be your winding resistance.

wg48 - 11-2-2018 at 16:06

magpie: Do you now have an interface spec for the new module?

Here is the first multimeter I found with a spec on ebay for ~£16
3+1/2 digits 200ohm range with a resolution of 0.1 ohms, crap accuracy but it is only ~£16. You should be able to find the mid point of your motor windings with it.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Multimeter-Neoteck-Auto-Ranging-D...
There are hundreds on ebay but check the specification.


[Edited on 12-2-2018 by wg48]
Sorry forgot the link

[Edited on 12-2-2018 by wg48]

Magpie - 11-2-2018 at 16:40

Quote: Originally posted by wg48  
magpie: Do you now have an interface spec for the new module?


Zyltech sent me nothing on the module. I don't know what an interface spec is or where to get one.

wg48 - 11-2-2018 at 16:51

Quote: Originally posted by Magpie  
Quote: Originally posted by wg48  
magpie: Do you now have an interface spec for the new module?


Zyltech sent me nothing on the module. I don't know what an interface spec is or where to get one.



The interface spec tells you what the inputs and outputs are. So with out it how are you going to trouble shoot it? You still will not know for certain if you are interfaceing to it correctly or not.

violet sin - 11-2-2018 at 19:40

I've been successfully using free multimeters from harbor freight. Spend 5$ on anything get one free. Before we had a dollar store I used them for free 9v batteries, as they were 5$ from the grocery store. Someone borrowed the radio shack one years ago. I have the 7$ ohm/F/L/esr meter

http://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/7+Function+Digital+Multime...

https://m.ebay.com/itm/LCR-T4-ESR-Meter-Transistor-Tester-Di...

There are more than a few acceptable meters on eBay for 20$ or less. Hz and thermocouple settings on some look useful.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Smart-V-True-RMS-Auto-Ranging-Multime...

Magpie - 11-2-2018 at 21:36

Attached is a cleaned up circuit that started right off turning my Mineba NEMA 17 stepper motor salvaged from a dead copier. Speeds are as follows: 285 rpm at 12.2v, 337 rpm at 16v, 400 rpm at 18v.



Mineba stepper working circuit.jpg - 247kB

I post this information only because I am so happy to see a rotor turning. :D

[Edited on 12-2-2018 by Magpie]

wg48 - 12-2-2018 at 03:00

congrad.jpg - 16kB

Imagine triumphant music playing in the background and
Scantily or politically correctly dressed woman waving the banner

Magpie - 12-2-2018 at 05:01

I prefer scantily :D , thank you. I will test this circuit on my other NEMA 17 steppers.

Magpie - 12-2-2018 at 13:28

I have tested my NEMA 17s model 17HS13-0316S and model 17HS19-0406S from Stepperonline. The 17HS13- ran up to 343 rpm at 20v. The 17HS19 - wanted to run: was "locked rotor" and humming, but just wouldn't run for some reason. I tried rearranging the motor leads to the the A4988 to no avail.

I have two more steppers to get running but they are both NEMA 23.

I have a Fluke 115 multimeter on order for $180.

[Edited on 12-2-2018 by Magpie]

Twospoons - 13-2-2018 at 13:14

I still find it surprising that one motor runs but another does not, with the same driver circuit. This is where you need to be looking - whats different between the two setups? What did you change? What got moved/unplugged/reconnected? Could it be something as stupid as a bad connector row in your breadboard? Somewhere in there is the source of your problems.

Magpie - 13-2-2018 at 15:19

I received my Fluke 115 multimeter today. It works as advertised. A 22Ω resistor tested 21.9 Ω. So I tested all my steppers for coil resistance. The values varied from 0.3Ω to 3.8Ω.
Quote: Originally posted by Twospoons  
I still find it surprising that one motor runs but another does not, with the same driver circuit. This is where you need to be looking - whats different between the two setups? What did you change? What got moved/unplugged/reconnected? Could it be something as stupid as a bad connector row in your breadboard? Somewhere in there is the source of your problems.


I, too, would like to believe that somewhere there is a logical world of steppers. But I have long since given up that hope. Gremlins control these little bastards. Today my circuit would not work unless I removed the LED, whereas previously it worked with it in place.

My main goal now is to get the NEMA 23 Zyltech and OrientalMotor steppers operational. They have their own dedicated drivers that came with the motors. But I can not find their interface specs.

[Edited on 13-2-2018 by Magpie]

Magpie - 24-6-2018 at 18:15

I finally got my stepper motor mixer to run:

https://youtu.be/XqfUjIYf0k0

I don't know why it went to slow motion in the middle of the video.

I can post my schematic if anyone is interested.

[Edited on 25-6-2018 by Magpie]
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